Down the coast to the city of Malmo just standing over the Oresund from Copenhagen.
It's a very present city with a wonderful coastland looking out over the sea to the distant city in a foreign country.
The castle contains an interesting museum, although I could have done with out the authentic noises of a decapitation in the castle courtyard. Rather to realistic. This ares of Sweden was occupied by Denmark for many years, but all seams to be forgiven now.
It was raining on Friday so I took a trip over the bridge to Copenhagen. Very wet so I took in a couple of palaces. It's a lovely city and not much changed since I was here 14 years ago. The little mermaid is still on her spot and surrounded by tourists even in the drizzle.
Stopped off at the seaside town of Helsingborg, just over the sea from Denmark. With the country so close I popped over on the ferry to experience a bit of Danish life. The ferries chug back and forth 24 hours a day. The trip only takes 20 minutes and locals have been known to spend the whole day on board, sampling the restaurants and the shops.
For some bizarre reason you can only by Alcohol when in Swedish waters and Tobacco when in Danish waters so the shutters have to keep coming up and down every half hour.
The speed of the turnaround of the ferries is impressive. An entire boat is emptied and refilled with cars, lorries and people, all within 10 minutes. So you have to be speedy getting off or you will be bedding back across the channel like and aquatic yoyo.
Visited the castle of Helsinger, the location Shakespeare chose to set Hamlet. I've been here before but this time they had a trio up of actors prancing around the castle acting out scenes from the play. Quite buzzard to be viewing a room when Polonius suddenly marches into the room, has a little chat, and then yells out the window as he has seen Hamlet frolicking with his daughter.
Crossed the country to end up on the west coast in the city of Gothenburg.
It's a lively city set on the river where the main town centre is still surrounded by the original moat. The gardens have an amazing rose garden that was still pretty impressive even though it was past its best.
The rain came on Sunday so I headed to the museum. Lots to see but hundreds of children underfoot. When the sun came out I made my escape over the hill to visit the botanic gardens. Set in a beautiful location overlooking the bay it is a very releasing place to spend a few hours.
Stockholm must be one of the most relaxed cities in the world. With its scenic location spread across over 50 islands the whole city has the feeling of living in a theme park.
One of the islands is taken over with a massive park, bringing the countryside into the heart of the city. As well as walks and lakes and trails the island is full of museums including a full recreation of an ancient Swedish village.
It's also the home of the Abba museum where, for a hefty price, you can found all about the famous four and their music.
The centre island is the location of the royal palace. Not the original, that burnt down in the 1690's, but a newer version, crammed full of relics. The King still uses it today and the crowd jewels occupy the basement.
The Kings ancestors mostly reside on another small island just of the main centre. It's crammed full of Kings, queens and nobles, one vault is open so you can see all the coffins feasting inside. The guide had some pictures of one of the kings in ten coffin taken when it was opened for restoration work. Let's just say he was past his best.
Welcomed in the year 2074 with a visit to a couple of Kathmandu landmarks. The monkey temple stands on a steep hill just outside the main city. It's so named for the hordes of Rhesus monkeys which prowl occupy the hill, mugging unsuspecting pilgrims bringing offerings for the various deities. The hill was a mass of humanity all seeking blessings for the new year.
The other icon is the stupor at Boudhanath. It's was quite a tricky journey to get there, the overnight thunderstorms having turned the dusty streets to muddy tracks. It's a vast dome around which pilgrims process in a ritual mark of respect to the Buddha. Fascinating just watching people all processing round the dome, spinning the prayer wheel and giving thanks for their blessings.
Visited the house of the Kumari Devi, Kathmandu's living god. She is a young girl, chosen when she is three, who lives a royal life possessed by a god. When she has her first period the goddess leaves her and a new child is chosen. Lets hope she is enjoying her elevated life while she can.
After a quick hop over the mountains time for a few days relaxing in Kathmandu. The flight may be short, but it's pretty spectacular, with stunning views of the mountains which have been tantalising us with views through the clouds, revealed in all their glory. There was also a fabulous view of the biggest mountain of the lot, with Everest towering above the others.
It's 25 years since I have been in Nepal and much has changed. Not least due to the devastating earthquake which hit in 2015 reducing many temples to rubble. The resultant dust still covers the city, which, combined with the exhaust pollution envelopes the city in a muggy smog.
The political situation has changed as well, no more obviously in the opening of the Palace museum. When I was here before Nepal was a kingdom, with the palace occupied by King Behendra. Now the kingdom is no more and tourists wander through the former royal apartments. Fascinating to see the fading 70's chic intermixed with relics from the ancient dynasty.
In the garden is the spot where in 2001 the Crown Prince massacred most of his family before turning the gun on himself. The buildings in which occurred have been torn down but the bullet marks in the wall can still be seen.
Wednesday, April 12, 2017
Moved into the second city Paro where the annual festival is taking place. For a city it is tiny, but easy to walkabout and explore.
The festival was taking place outside one of the main temples high above the Dzong. It certainly was the place to be with people having traveled for miles to attend. The five days consist of Monks acting out events from Bhutanese history and religious texts. The marks and costumes were incredibly colourful and the dances performed with vigour. A fascinating spectacle even if it was a bit cramped sitting on the steps.
The climax of the trip to Bhutan was a climb up to the sensational Tiger's Nest monastery. It's an amazing structure, stuck to the cliffs half way up a mountain. The climb is steep but the tantalising views through the trees spur you on to the top of the trail. There is strictly no photography inside, but the splendour of the building lies in its location. It's an incredible piece of design, and to think the Monastery was built in the 17th century makes it even more impressive. One of the must see sights on the planet.
Spent the morning exploring the capital Thimphu, including a visit to the Sunday market, which takes place on a Saturday. The Textile museum has a demonstration of how the Bhutanese men put on their Gho, the traditional outfit the men wear. It's incredibly complicated and involved wrapping the cloth around the body and then hitching it up by creating pleats and holding everything in place with a tight belt. It is said the best part of the day for a Bhutanese man is when he can finally release the belt at the end of the day.
In the afternoon we drove over the Dochu La pass and descended into the Punakha valley. On the way passed the shrine to the mad monk, a 16th century figure who had a rather unorthodox approach to living. Some of the designs on the houses, designed to ward off evil spirits, would not pass uk planning regulations.
Spent the night In a beautiful camp site along side the Mo Chhu river, miles away from any civilisation. The owners had arranged a hot stone bath where river water was warmed by dropping in rocks which has been heated over an open air fire. The bath was full of medicinal herbs. It was wonderfully relaxing soaking under the open sky.
In the evening after the meal the Bhutanese guides produced a chocolate cake from out of nowhere. What a wonderful place to spend your birthday.
After four weeks traveling, have left India by the back door and entered the Kingdom of Bhutan.
The border is a simple metal fence and Indians and Bhutanese come and go at will. For us foreigners though it's a different story and the paperwork needed to be completed before we were accepted into the country.
After a night on the border, we drove the 5 hour drive up to the Capital Thimphu, set high in the mountains. It's an amazing country, so different to anything else I've witnessed. The city has a country town feel, with everyone seeming to know everyone else.
Visited the central Dzong, home of the government. It's also the office of the King and we were privileged to see him walking home at the end of the working day.
Now in the capital of the state, Gantok. Another city built up a steep hillside. The one thing you do need in Sikkim is good calf muscles. Sikkim is almost like a different country. Very clean if basic. Of course it was a different country until 1975 when India annexed it.
The monastery over the valley is the home of the Black hat Buddhist sect. Their spiritual leader is the other side of the country though as he resides in Dharamsala with the Dali Lama. A rival lives nearby and there have been raids by militant Buddhists, so the place is tightly armed. We arrived on the last day of a holy festival, so the monastery hall was full of monks chanting and blowing horns and praying. An incredible spectacle.
