Budapest

After the compact nature of Prague, and the country town feel of Bratislava, Budapest feels like a mighty metropolis.

It straddles the Danube, which seams narrower here, with Buda standing rocky and proud on one side, while Pest lies on the flatlands on the other. The two city's were combined in to produce Budapest one of the great capitals of Europe.

The city has known suffering over the years, not least in the mid 20th century when first the Nazi's and then the Communists terrorised the population. One soldier, spirited off to a Russian Gulag after the war was only released a few years ago after 53 years in a mental hospital. They though he was simple and couldn't speak. Turned out he only understood Hungarian.

In the caves below the castle they built a hospital to treat the wounded during the battle for the city at the end of World War II. It later became a top secret nuclear shelter, but now is open for tours. A fascinating reminder of how dangerous the past was.

The city has a vast number of natural springs supplying bather houses with abundant supplies of healing waters . Just the place to relax after a day's sightseeing. Just make sure you chose one where swimming costumes are not optional if you don't want to be put off your lunch.

Finished the day with a walk along the promenade. With the castle sparkling on the hill opposite it really is a magical city.
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Bratislava

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In Bratislava, capital of Slovakia, which lies alongside the mighty Danube. The river certainly generates a feeling of great power as it scuttles alongside the city on its relentless journey East towards the Black Sea.

The river once marked the northern border of the Roman Empire, an border that would have been difficult to cross given the wide expanse of fast flowing water. some facing ting pictures from the communist era showing people swimming in the river. Quite a resort atmosphere.

Bratislava is a very laid back kind of capital, in line with the country's modest size. It has the vibe of a country town, laid back, chilling in the sunshine. The old town us dominated by a large castle. Heavily restored it had some fantastic views over the metropolis. Further views can be enjoyed from the UFO, the saucer shaped restaurant that sits on top one of the bridges.

Staying just opposite the presidential palace. I think today was "bring your kinds to see the president day" given by the number streaming into the place this morning. They were serenaded by a brass band. I thought for a moment it was the Slovak national anthem that they were playing but then realised it was "Can you feel the love tonight".

Castles and bridges

Prague castle sits on a hill overlooking the Vitava. It was the seat of power in the country for a millennia. Still home to the office of the president it houses many grand buildings and a stunning cathedral. The body of King Wenceslas lies within, houses in a grand ornate Chapel. He was murdered by his brother in 935 so I'm guessing there is not much left of the old boy today. His mother was done in as well so they were quite an unlucky family.

The rooms where the Defenestration of Prague took place can also be seen. Sounds nasty. I man n fact it involved pushing someone Catholics to their death out of a high window, an event that led to a thirty years war. A slight flaw in the plan was evident when it became apparent the Catholics had survived the fall. The church would have you believe they were cradled by angels during their decent. I prefer the alternative story, That they landed in dung heap.

The Charles bridge crosses the Vitava below the castle as it has since 1402. It's packed with tourists these days all fighting for space to take the ultimate selfie. Plenty of hawkers ply their trade on the bridge as they have done for centuries.

On the bridge as dusk takes hold, there is a choice of entertainment. On top the gentle lilt of the barrel organ playing abide with me, flanked by the statues of the saints guarding the bridge. While from below the cruise boats chug under the bridge, complete with Freddie Mercury lookalike bellowing I want to break free loud enough for the whole valley to be sure of his desire.

Prague



Took the short flight out to the capital of the Czech republic, just a hop over Germany to Prague. Fabulous speedy entry to the country, straight through the automatic passport machine and I was on the bus heading to the city within 30 minutes of landing. 

Prague is much hillier than expected. The centre has all the charm of an ancient city, filled with glorious buildings, picturesque cobbled streets and tons of terracotta roofs. But there is also a lot of green with the hills across the river adding texture to the views.

Climbed up a couple of towers for the views. The streets were packed so it was a relief to get out of the crowds. An awful lot of students cramming the sidewalk. Took in the Museum of Torture, which was a mistake. Staggering how inhumane our ancestors were. The medieval zealots would give Isis a run for their money in barbarity and cruelty. 

Much nicer exploring the lanes and boulevards. Finished up in  Wenceslaus square. He lived around these parts in the 10th Century. More recently his square is where the Velvet Revolution took place, which led to the fall of communism in the eastern block.