Sunday, November 20, 2016
Back on the coast and in Marseille, a large city on the edge of the ocean, and like most seaside towns, one with an air of seediness about it.
It's surprisingly hilly with the station perched above the town giving a glorious view across the rooftops as you arrive. Across the valley on another hill stands the cathedral of Notre-Dame de la Garde, built on an Ancient Fort and therefore commanding attention from all over the city. It's quite a slog up and people tend to enter with their knees trembling. Not from any particular awe at the wonderment on the holy place but more a realisation they they aren't as fit as they thought.
Took the ferry out to the Frioul archipelago, three islands living just outside the harbour. The castle on one of the islands was the inspiration for The count of monte cristo, and his prison cell still exists. In the misleading ages the island became home to a shipwrecked rhinoceros, which became quite a tourist spectacle with Kings and emperors making trips to visit.
Thursday, November 17, 2016
Now in Avignon, the city of popes that isn't Rome. The pontiffs were here in the 14th century when the papacy became a vassal of the French crown. The palace is still here dominating the town, its great stone walls towering over the cobbled lanes. The rooms inside are impressive, vast spaces now empty but for a few wandering tourists.
Not many treasures left. I guess they all got returned to Rome. There are some impressive frescos, although many were damaged when the palace was used as a military barracks just after the revolution. The palace was also home to the anti-popes, two pretenders to the papal crown who reigned in Avignon at the start of the 15th century. Not sure what happens if a pope meets an anti-pope. Maybe there is a big flash and we all become atheist. Who knows?
The city overlooks the Rhone, with its constant river traffic chugging by. Over the river is the Fort Saint-André which protect the town of Villeneuve. The old bridge over the river has long fallen down, with just the eastern spur jutting into the water. You can walk out onto it but in terms of crossing the water it falls a little short. Luckily there is a newer alternative.
The river used to be a wide fermenting babble. Now it's calm and sedate thanks to the river calming efforts up stream. Very pleasant to sit on the banks, take in the glorious autumn leaves, and see the world glide by.
Thursday, November 17, 2016
Arrived in Monaco, the worlds smallest state. At just 2 square kilometres in area you can walk from one side of the country to the other in less than an hour. Small it may be put packed full of sights. The old city sits atop of castle rock, watching over the mega yachts in the harbour below.
If you think Nice has a few yachts then Monaco will blow your mind. Great hunks of plastic and metal cluttering up the harbour and no doubt purchased of the backs of the BHS pensioners and their ilk. Most of them seemed to be empty bar a few deckhands swaying down the decks.
For such an expensive neighbourhood the harbour boasts an incredibly tacky funfair. Maybe the mega rich like to get a taste of Blackpool, as they amble ashore after a hard days relaxing.
Wednesday, November 16, 2016
Down to the French Riviera and the seaside city of Nice. Very pleasant being by the seaside, which even in November has a slightly balmy feel. The city has seen some troubles in recent months, but the atmosphere is friendly and warm. Slightly weird to see armed soldiers patrolling the seafront though.
Climbed up to Castle Hill for a glorious view over the coast. The promenade stretches for miles in a graceful curve sweeping from the town towards the airport. On the other side the harbour is chock full of expensive boats.
The city is overlooked by Mount Boron which is full of trails and viewpoints. The old fort at the top offers some wonderful viewpoints which makes the climb worthnthe effort.
