Walked down to the Lorraine Motel, a few blocks south, where in 1968, Martin Luther King was assassinated. It`s now the home of the civil rights museum. Spent hours looking at the displays. Sobering to think it was all so recent, within my lifetime that the USA still had segregation. Lovely sunny day so wandered up and down Beale street, home of the blues, and absorbed the music coming out of every bar.

After a visit to the president`s house yesterday, went to the king`s today. A lovely house, much smaller than I thought it would be. Felt very homely and much of it is just as Elvis left it. Massive collection of his clothes, cars and memorabilia. They even have his personal jet, the Lisa Marie, in the car park. His grave is in the garden along with his parents. Afterwards visited Sun studios where Elvis paid $4 to record a single in 1953. Many others also launched their careers there including Jerry Lee Lewis and Johnny Cash. Finished the day by watching the sun set over the Mississippi.

Paid a visit to the Hermitage, the home of seventh president Andrew Jackson. Lovely old house just outside Nashville. Lots to see including the old slave quarters. Drove the 200 miles to Memphis, along some very busy highways. Weather still wet but all the forecasts say it will improve for the weekend. Looks like I just missed the tornadoes which hit Memphis and Alabama yesterday and which are now heading through Virginia.

Very wet in Nashville, so I headed for the Country Music Hall of Fame. Lots of memorabilia including Elvis`s gold plated limo, probably the tackiest thing I have ever seen. The tour included a trip to RCA Studio B, where many famous records were recorded, stuff by Dolly Parton, Jim Reeves and much of Elvis`s collection. Talking of Elvis, looking at his placque in the hall of fame, I realized that today I am exactly the same age, to the day, as he was when he died. Spooky.

Spent the day enjoying the sights of Chattanooga. Took the free shuttle up to the waterfront for a walk along the river. Chattanooga was the start of the trail of tears, where the Cherokee Indians were rounded up and marched off to Oklahoma, so the white settlers could expand their farms. Spend the afternoon up lookout mountain. Great views over the city. They say you can see seven states from here. It was a bit hazy so I think I could only see three. Not sure about the rock garden with Gnomes acting out famous fairy tales but the locals seemed to like it. Now in Nashville

Miles driven: 155