Kennedy Space Centre

Spent the day touring the sights of the Kennedy Space Center. A fascinating day with so much to see. Discovery was sitting on launch pad 39b, ready for its departure one week from today. It`s a night time launch so so should be pretty spectacular, apparently it lights up the coast. I don`t think I would like to be sitting on top of all that fuel. The acceleration on the Hulk ride yesterday was quite enough thank you. Now in Daytona, which, judging by my walk to the 7/11, is populated by drop outs and junkies. So back in the Motel, sitting on my balcony overlooking the beach, and listening to the waves.

Miles driven: 95
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Universal Studios, Orlando

Well I had to visit one theme park while I was in Florida, so following the advice of my sister, I spent today at Universal. Have been spun, twisted, flung upside down, dropped from a great height, attacked by a shark and soaked to the skin. Great fun though. My motel room is now gently rocking back and forth and I`m feeling slightly nauseous. It didn`t help that there were no queues, so I was able to try out almost all of the rides.
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Tampa Bay

Spent the day on either side of Tampa bay. This morning in St Petersburg and this afternoon in Tampa city itself. St Petersburg has a wonderful position right on the bay with great views over to the water. Lots of pelicans on the pier. Tampa was a lot busier. Loads of police and roads closed. I couldn`t work out why until I saw the news 9 truck reporting on the big game tonight.
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Manatees

Spent the morning exploring the Florida Capital building. It always amazes me how you can wander around legislative buildings in the US. Imagine being able to wander around the Palace of Westminster. I was able to look in the Senate as well as the House, and even the Governor`s reception area. Didn`t see Jeb, although his receptionist gave me a rundown on the paintings. Travelled down into central Florida and in Homosassa park saw some of the weirdest creatures ever. Manatees are native to Florida and are a sort of cross between an Elephant and a wood louse. They live in rivers where they hang around hot springs. Although totally harmless, imagine the shock if you were swimming and one of those showed up.
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Panhandle

Travelled another hundred odd miles along the coast and lost the hour I previously gained when leaving Chattanooga. It must be very confusing for those living on the time zone border. Just popping to the shops and having to change your clock. Stopped in at the gulf world ocean show to see a couple of dolphins do some leaping about. Now in the state capital Tallahassee, built, as so many capitals are, midway between two rival contenders, Pensacola and St Augustine.
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USS Alabama

Spent the morning on the USS Alabama, a WWII battleship moored in Mobile bay. Very interesting but swarming with some very large people. There`s no way some of them would have fitted through some of the hatchways. Drove along the coast road into Florida, stopping at Pensacola for a walk around the city. Spending the night at Panama City. Gorgeous view of the ocean from my hotel room right on the beach.

Miles driven: 167
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Gulf Coast

Left New Orleans and headed east along the gulf coast. Again the devastation was incredible. Houses of wood reduced to splinters, houses of brick reduced to rubble. Upturned boats alongside the highway. Such contrast to the beautiful, and incredibly calm, ocean on the other side of the road. Now in Mobile, pronounced mo-beel, Alabama. Saw a gorgeous sunset from Dolphin Island, at the entrance to Mobile bay.

Miles driven: 242
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Thanksgiving

Everything closed in the city so I headed south, out to the swamps. Went walking in the National Park alongside the bayous but didn`t see any alligators. Apparently there were plenty about. Driving back to the city went through some neighbourhoods worst affected by Katrina. Row after row of abandoned buildings in various states of collapse. All marked with spray painted indicating how many bodies were found there. It`s as if the hurricane was last month. So much still to clear.

Miles driven: 75

New Orleans

Today is the busiest day on the roads in the USA sue to the holiday tomorrow, so I spent the day on the sidewalks of the city. After a rather unpleasant breakfast in the hotel, Americans can`t do breakfast, walked up to the French quarter. The whole of Louisiana was at various times controlled by the French, Spanish and British, before Napoleon got fed up with the whole place and sold it to the new American colony for 15 million dollars. Quite a deal as Louisiana at the time spread all the way to Oregon. The museum is in the building where the transfer was signed. The French quarter is the oldest part of the city and was relatively unscathed by Katrina, being one of the few parts of the city to actually be above sea level. It has some wonderful old buildings. Spent ages in the square just people watching.

Mississippi Delta

Spent the morning looking around the capital building. It`s got a wonderful balcony on the 27th floor which gives a panoramic view over Baton Rouge. The city feels very relaxed, not at all like it`s the capital of a state. This afternoon I followed the river, though plantations galore, into New Orleans, which has a much edgier feel. Hotel is right in the centre of the city. It doesn`t seem possible that only 14 months ago it was all under water.

Natchez Trace Parkway

Finished the Natchez Parkway which, not suprisingly ended in Natchez, a lovely old town situated high on a cliff overlooking the Mississippi. The road follows an old Indian trail and is a much nicer drive than hurtling down the interstate, hemmed in by lorries. Spent some time wandering around the old town. It`s full of mansions built in the 19th century, all on the profits from the cotton trade. Saw an example of a cotton plant. It`s most bizarre. It looks like someone has gone mad with the cotton balls and stuck them on an old twig. Now in Baton Rouge which is so named as the local Indians used to plant stakes covered in blood.

Elvis's Birthplace

Having hit the river I decided I had probably gone far enough west so headed south into the Magnolia state. Not yet overdosed on Elvis I dropped in at his birthplace in Tupelo. It is far removed from Graceland, just a two room shack on the wrong side of town. Now travelling down the Natchez highway which goes down across the heart of Mississippi. Staying in the capital, Jackson. In the real south now where the accents are broader and the faith stronger. The churches are massive, and unlike British ones, are full of people.

Miles driven: 293

Memphis

Walked down to the Lorraine Motel, a few blocks south, where in 1968, Martin Luther King was assassinated. It`s now the home of the civil rights museum. Spent hours looking at the displays. Sobering to think it was all so recent, within my lifetime that the USA still had segregation. Lovely sunny day so wandered up and down Beale street, home of the blues, and absorbed the music coming out of every bar.

Graceland

After a visit to the president`s house yesterday, went to the king`s today. A lovely house, much smaller than I thought it would be. Felt very homely and much of it is just as Elvis left it. Massive collection of his clothes, cars and memorabilia. They even have his personal jet, the Lisa Marie, in the car park. His grave is in the garden along with his parents. Afterwards visited Sun studios where Elvis paid $4 to record a single in 1953. Many others also launched their careers there including Jerry Lee Lewis and Johnny Cash. Finished the day by watching the sun set over the Mississippi.

Old Hickory

Paid a visit to the Hermitage, the home of seventh president Andrew Jackson. Lovely old house just outside Nashville. Lots to see including the old slave quarters. Drove the 200 miles to Memphis, along some very busy highways. Weather still wet but all the forecasts say it will improve for the weekend. Looks like I just missed the tornadoes which hit Memphis and Alabama yesterday and which are now heading through Virginia.

Music City

Very wet in Nashville, so I headed for the Country Music Hall of Fame. Lots of memorabilia including Elvis`s gold plated limo, probably the tackiest thing I have ever seen. The tour included a trip to RCA Studio B, where many famous records were recorded, stuff by Dolly Parton, Jim Reeves and much of Elvis`s collection. Talking of Elvis, looking at his placque in the hall of fame, I realized that today I am exactly the same age, to the day, as he was when he died. Spooky.

Chattanooga

Spent the day enjoying the sights of Chattanooga. Took the free shuttle up to the waterfront for a walk along the river. Chattanooga was the start of the trail of tears, where the Cherokee Indians were rounded up and marched off to Oklahoma, so the white settlers could expand their farms. Spend the afternoon up lookout mountain. Great views over the city. They say you can see seven states from here. It was a bit hazy so I think I could only see three. Not sure about the rock garden with Gnomes acting out famous fairy tales but the locals seemed to like it. Now in Nashville

Miles driven: 155

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Yesterday had a long long journey down the Blue Ridge Parkway. Great views stretching miles in every direction. Slight diversion because of snow in the hills. Stayed the night on the boundary of the Great Smokey Mountains National Park and woke to a thick frost. Spent most of the day in the park, walking, driving and enjoying the views. They certainly have a smoky look. Decided against visiting Dollywood and drove onto Chattanooga, no sign yet of the choo choo.

Miles driven: Sun 355 Mon 245

A morning on Waltons Mountain

Drove down to Schuyler, boyhood home of Earl Hammer, creator of the Waltons. Brought a can of coke in Ike Godsey`s store and visited the local elementary school, now home of the Waltons Mountain Museum. Heard the Rockfish train hooting in the valley, very evocative. Then down to poplar forest, hideaway home of Thomas Jefferson. Beautiful weather and gorgeous autumn colours.

Miles driven: 172

Mount Vernon

Travelled south from DC taking in the wonderful Mount Vernon on the way. The home of George Washington for many years. Visited on my first visit 12 years ago. This time his false teeth were on display so well worth a second visit. Drove down to Charlottesville in the afternoon but got caught in the veteran`s day holiday traffic.

Miles driven: 135

Washington DC

Finished the weeks coverage of the American Midterms and finally got some time to enjoy Washington. Beautiful day with the district drenched in sunset. Walked to the Jefferson memorial and then onto Arlington cemetery. One more night in D.C. Before picking up my car tomorrow.
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