Mount Fuji

UntitledBack in Tokyo for some gloriously Sunny days. Staying on the Ashkusa area on the 21st floor with a spectacular view over the endless city. On clear days you can even see Mount Fuji on the opposite side of the metropolis.

 Got a bit closer to the mountain by climbing one of the foothills yesterday. Took the chair lift half way up, which is kind of cheating, but I am getting on. Was quite exciting gliding through the trees. The top was rather crowed, but at least the mountain was visible, so the climb was worth it.

 No more train journeys. I'll miss the way the conductors bow to the carriage when they enter. I wonder if British Rail could adopt the practice. Everyone bows here.

Finished with a long walk through the streets amid the hustle and bustle of the lanes and carriageway taking in some magnificent gardens.
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Castles

UntitledHeading back towards Tokyo now and taking in a few castles as I go.

 The first was in Himeji, where the castle towers over the city below. It is the original, having survived the ravages of World War II and very popular as the queues into the main keep testified. The staircases are almost vertical, like the typ you find in ships, but that didn't seem to stop half the OAP's in the province racing for the top.

 The view was worth it, as was the view from the garden next door. The Japanese certainly have a way with gardens and the juxtaposition of tree and water, grass and gravel is staggering in its simplicity and beauty.

 Nagoya also boasts a castle, although this one is a replica as the original was fire bombed and destroyed. Good news is they put a lift in which eased the way to the eight floor.

 Nagoya also boast the JR museum fill of all types of train you could imagine. It's pride and joy is the bullet train and the interactive displayed give you an insight into just Ho it all works so slickly.
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Nagasaki

VUntitledArrived in the port city of Nagasaki, on the island of Kyushu. It's stands at the head of a long fjord, a beautiful position with the prospect slightly marred by the lashing rain that enveloped the city as I arrived.

To get there you need to take the regional train. Quite beautiful winding around the coastline and quite a contrast to the mad dash of the bullet train. Life in this corner of the island is remarkable sedate.

Nagasaki was for many years the only interface between Japan and the rest of the world. Contact took place via Dejima, a small man made island that stands on the edge of the harbour. It was to this island that the Dutch traders were confined and all contact to and from Japan passed through its gates. 

Later on the foreigner compound was extended and the hillside boasts the Glover garden, build by a tea trader from Fraserborough. Certainly a beautiful spot with views over the bay.

Not sure if the 26 martyrs who were crucified on the hills overlooking the bay enjoyed the view. Probably other things on their mind.  They were executed in the 17th century following the banning of Christianity by the Shogun.  The youngest was just twelve. The Catholic Church later made them all saints and a shrine stands where they were killed.

Following the opening up of the country the biggest church in Asia once stood in the city. It took twenty years to build, and just three seconds to be demolished when it found itself at the epicentre of the Worlds second, and so far last, atomic bomb to be used in anger. The museum is again sobering with many mormories of ordinary lives wiped out in the massive explosion that enveloped the valley.  Very moving testimony. 

Hiroshima

UntitledHiroshima is a beautiful relaxing city of some million people located on the delta of the Ota river With beautiful gardens and ringed by mountains it has a peaceful and relaxing atmosphere.

However the name, meaning wide island, will forever be linked with one of the most destructive acts of man, when the first atomic bomb used in anger, detonated 600m above the city centre.

The bomb came out of a bright clear sky one August morning, as World War II was grinding to its conclusion. Japan was being heavily bombed in preparation for an expected allied invasion and school children were employed clearing buildings to make fire lanes in the city, meaning many were caught in the open when the destruction came.

The destruction was immense, and well documented in peace museum, which stands in a leafy park just south of the bomb site. The visit is difficult, but vital to understand the suffering and pain that went here. The exhibits are evocative, and show the routines of daily life, cut short that sunny morning. The twisted metal of the lunch box, its contents turned to carbon. The ragged school uniforms, scorched white with the heat. The child's tricycle, now a rusting wreck.

The steps from the local bank are on show. That morning there had been a human being full of life and hope, sitting on the step. The next the life was just a memory, a shadow left on a step being the only remnant of a life cut short.

Over 140,000 died as a result of the bombing. But The pain and the suffering are testament to the horrors of war of any scale.
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Nara

UntitledAfter a couple of damp days in Kyoto, the sun came out for my trip down to Nara.

Nara was the capital before Kyoto, so we are talking about 1500 years ago. It is certainly much more compact than its big neighbour and chock full of temples. It houses the biggest wooden building in the world, built in the 1700 to house a gigantic Buddha, He still sits there, presiding over the hoards that come to pay homage. Amazingly the building used to be bigger, but was reduced in a round of 18th Century austerity cuts.

Paid my 150 Yen to walk up the mountain. It was a steep climb, but the view over the plains made it well worth the climb. There was a group of Japanese walkers out for a ramble, Nice to see the outfit of the walker is universal.

Now in the metropolis of Osaka. The hotel is very bizarre as all the rooms have steel doors. Makes it feel like you are staying in a prison cell. When you open the bathroom door the toilet seat rises automatically as if to say hi, how can I help you? Flushing the thing however, requires a degree from Nasa.
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Bullet Train

UntitledAmbled along to the station to catch the Shinkansen, better known as the Bullet train.

The train propels you rapidly between cities and is certainly impressive. Watching the train arrive was like watching a precision drill, so organised was the reception and so quick the turnaround. As it arrived it was greated by a team of bright blue engineers and bright pink cleaners. Within 15 minutes the train had disgorged its passengers and been occupied by the cleaning team. Each carriage had been totally cleaned. the seats all reversed and all set fair for the new trip ahead.

The route takes you across the plains with the magnificent Mount Fuji towering above, down towards the old city of Kyoto. Last time I came here was for the World Earth summit in 1997, and to be honest I can't remember much. I think most of that trip was spent in a press room at the convention centre.

This time I had time to wander the streets, exploring temples and taking in the glorious autumn colours. Several people had the same plan and the path of reflection was very crowded. Not much time for reflecting if you didn't want to bump into somebody.
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City Break

UntitledTook in the sights of Tokyo starting with the national museum.  It's full of aincent and colurful objects, and that was just the curators. There was a touring exhibition of Sian warriors from China. Been there done that.

The area the museum is located in survived the various earthquakes and bombing in WWII so the layour is pretty much unchanged. Quite a contrast walking the twisting lanes after the long straight avenues in the city. Came upon an old graveyard full of families visititng the relitives.

Took the shuttle over the Tokyo harbour Islands, now redevoloped as a major tourist attraction. There is a lot to see. The port musesm is on the twentieth floor and give a dynamic view over the whole container port. Quite amazing how it all works.
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Tokyo

Untitled The arrival lived up to the efficiency and politeness the Japanese are famed for, and, once the immigration officer could read my writing in the immigration form, was soon speeding into the city on the express train. The ticket machines are like some sort of Krypton Factor test, and your reward, when successful, is a seat as your are rushed into the capital

Arrived at the central station, certainly a hive of activity. Hotel was near enough to walk, even if I did start off in the wrong direction. Must have a bit of my mother in me.

Once checked in went for a walk around the Imperial Palace. I do mean a walk around. You can't go in as the Emperor still lives there. It is a very long loop round, but very beautiful. First impressions of Tokyo are of what a lot of space there is. I guess I was expecting jam packed streets clogged with traffic. What we have is wide avenues, and parks full of autumnal trees gently shedding leaves.



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Budapest

After the compact nature of Prague, and the country town feel of Bratislava, Budapest feels like a mighty metropolis.

It straddles the Danube, which seams narrower here, with Buda standing rocky and proud on one side, while Pest lies on the flatlands on the other. The two city's were combined in to produce Budapest one of the great capitals of Europe.

The city has known suffering over the years, not least in the mid 20th century when first the Nazi's and then the Communists terrorised the population. One soldier, spirited off to a Russian Gulag after the war was only released a few years ago after 53 years in a mental hospital. They though he was simple and couldn't speak. Turned out he only understood Hungarian.

In the caves below the castle they built a hospital to treat the wounded during the battle for the city at the end of World War II. It later became a top secret nuclear shelter, but now is open for tours. A fascinating reminder of how dangerous the past was.

The city has a vast number of natural springs supplying bather houses with abundant supplies of healing waters . Just the place to relax after a day's sightseeing. Just make sure you chose one where swimming costumes are not optional if you don't want to be put off your lunch.

Finished the day with a walk along the promenade. With the castle sparkling on the hill opposite it really is a magical city.
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Bratislava

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In Bratislava, capital of Slovakia, which lies alongside the mighty Danube. The river certainly generates a feeling of great power as it scuttles alongside the city on its relentless journey East towards the Black Sea.

The river once marked the northern border of the Roman Empire, an border that would have been difficult to cross given the wide expanse of fast flowing water. some facing ting pictures from the communist era showing people swimming in the river. Quite a resort atmosphere.

Bratislava is a very laid back kind of capital, in line with the country's modest size. It has the vibe of a country town, laid back, chilling in the sunshine. The old town us dominated by a large castle. Heavily restored it had some fantastic views over the metropolis. Further views can be enjoyed from the UFO, the saucer shaped restaurant that sits on top one of the bridges.

Staying just opposite the presidential palace. I think today was "bring your kinds to see the president day" given by the number streaming into the place this morning. They were serenaded by a brass band. I thought for a moment it was the Slovak national anthem that they were playing but then realised it was "Can you feel the love tonight".

Castles and bridges

Prague castle sits on a hill overlooking the Vitava. It was the seat of power in the country for a millennia. Still home to the office of the president it houses many grand buildings and a stunning cathedral. The body of King Wenceslas lies within, houses in a grand ornate Chapel. He was murdered by his brother in 935 so I'm guessing there is not much left of the old boy today. His mother was done in as well so they were quite an unlucky family.

The rooms where the Defenestration of Prague took place can also be seen. Sounds nasty. I man n fact it involved pushing someone Catholics to their death out of a high window, an event that led to a thirty years war. A slight flaw in the plan was evident when it became apparent the Catholics had survived the fall. The church would have you believe they were cradled by angels during their decent. I prefer the alternative story, That they landed in dung heap.

The Charles bridge crosses the Vitava below the castle as it has since 1402. It's packed with tourists these days all fighting for space to take the ultimate selfie. Plenty of hawkers ply their trade on the bridge as they have done for centuries.

On the bridge as dusk takes hold, there is a choice of entertainment. On top the gentle lilt of the barrel organ playing abide with me, flanked by the statues of the saints guarding the bridge. While from below the cruise boats chug under the bridge, complete with Freddie Mercury lookalike bellowing I want to break free loud enough for the whole valley to be sure of his desire.

Prague



Took the short flight out to the capital of the Czech republic, just a hop over Germany to Prague. Fabulous speedy entry to the country, straight through the automatic passport machine and I was on the bus heading to the city within 30 minutes of landing. 

Prague is much hillier than expected. The centre has all the charm of an ancient city, filled with glorious buildings, picturesque cobbled streets and tons of terracotta roofs. But there is also a lot of green with the hills across the river adding texture to the views.

Climbed up a couple of towers for the views. The streets were packed so it was a relief to get out of the crowds. An awful lot of students cramming the sidewalk. Took in the Museum of Torture, which was a mistake. Staggering how inhumane our ancestors were. The medieval zealots would give Isis a run for their money in barbarity and cruelty. 

Much nicer exploring the lanes and boulevards. Finished up in  Wenceslaus square. He lived around these parts in the 10th Century. More recently his square is where the Velvet Revolution took place, which led to the fall of communism in the eastern block. 

Last day


Last day in South Africa and I sit here on the slops Table Mountain, in the Kirstenbosch national botanical gardens, contemplating the views over the Cape flats below.

It feel like I've been here forever, but it's just three weeks since I landed at Oliver Tambo international airport, on the other side of the country,

South Africa truly is a glorious place. Sure it has its problems, I know all to well it's horrendous crime rate, but what country doesn't have problems.

The real miracle is how far it has come on so short a time. When I was at university this country was at war with itself and the world. Daily images on the news showed riots and beatings, with 85% of the population classed as inferior human beings. People not worthy to sit on the same seats as their bosses. People not fit to live in the cities but forced out onto slums and grinding poverty.

How a country can recover from that in so little time and with such lack of bitterness is astounding. With one of the most enlightened constitutions in the world and some of the most amazing sights, South Africa is truly the rainbow nation.

Table Mountain


Took a trip up to the top of Table mountain for a spectacular vista of the whole city. I didn't walk up, like some brave souls, but took the easy way via the cable car.

It really is a splendid sight, especially on a clear day when you can see for miles. It really is quite flat up the top and some splendid walks over the plateau. Lots of Dassie's around, basking in the sunshine.

In the distance you can see Robben island, famous from housing many political prisoners including, of course, Nelson Mandela who spent 18 years of his 27 in prison, on the island.

The tours are led by former inmates, who describe life on the island. They now live with former prison guards as neighbours. An amazing story of forgiveness and reconciliation.

The mountain dominates the view of the city. Spectacular and beautiful it must have reminded the prisoners each day of the liberty taken from them.

Cape Town


Nothing can quote prepare you for the stunning sight as you cross the mountains and see Cape Town stretching out before you.

Table mountain stands guard over the city, towering over the Cape flats which are crammed with all kinds of humanity.

The city centre stands crammed between the mountain and the bay. The Victoria and Alfred harbour is the centre of the tourist area on a spectacular vantage point. And yes I do meN Alfred not Albert. It was named after Victoria's second son.

Saw the sunset from the top of signal hill, with most of the population.

Hitting the bottom


Heading to Cape Town and spending time in the wine region. In particulate at the town of Swellendam. At the end of the 18th century this was the edge of the known world. It feels like a frontier hemmed in by mountains baring the way,

Headed south to the tip of Africa at Cape Agullus. Climbed the lighthouse for a dramatic view down the coast. It's where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet causing much turbulence.

Much turbulence caused in my journey when I became the latest victim of South Africa's crime wave when my car was broken into and all my stuff taken. Well they left the Lonely Planet. So a slight change of plan in the afternoon involving statements to thee Police. Everyone was so apologetic. Apparently it's the first time it has happened there. No lasting damage just very annoying.

Mossel Bay


Stopped off at Mossel Bay, and am not the first to do so. In fact the first was Bartolomeu Dias who popped in in 1488. The difference, he wasn't able to use booking.com for his hotel. Also his trip ashore ended badly when the local people chased him off in a hail of stones. They are a lot friendlier today. There is a replica of the ship he used to get here in the museum. Tiny springs to mind. And Dias and his crew were on it for six months.

My hotel was right at the top of a very steep hill. Fantastic for the wide sweeping views over the bay. Not so good for the very steep walk up from town.

The museum grounds contain a tree, still standing since the start of the 16th century. It was used as a post tree. Ships on an outward course to India would leave messages in an old boot under the tree, and ships returning home would pick them up as they passed by. You can send postcards by posting them in a replica boot.

Wilderness


Stopped off in Wilderness on my trip along the cost. Woke up to see Dolphins frolicking in the sea just off the shore.

Had a closer encounter with a different kind of animal when I visited the Snake Park at Plettenberg. They have all kinds of snakes there which the guides explain in a very casual way. This is the most dangerous snake in Africa, he said as he leapt into the pit containing Puff Adders. Luckily the one he draped around my neck was a lot more harmless, and docile.

Spent today in the national park, walking up to a waterfall. Very beautiful around here, and. Heap. I could buy a luxury four bedroom house with a view of the ocean for half the cost of my London house.

Garden Route


Now traveling along the coast of the Cape along the famous Garden Route from Port Elizabeth to the finish at Cape Town.

Port Elizabeth has a glorious position on the coast overlooking Nelson Mandela bay. It's called the Windy City, for obvious reasons. Lots of people enjoying the weekend on the beach.

Now in Plettenberg Bay after an overnight stay in Jeffrey's bay. Staying in a hotel right on the beach with a view of the sands from my room. Lots to see and on my way stopped off at monkey world, a place where rescued monkeys are rehabilitated, it's next door to the Tenikwa wildlife rescue centre where wild cats are housed. You can go right in the cages with the Cheetahs, standing right next to some very large felines. 

Experienced one of South Africa's rolling power cuts tonight. Quite enchanting watching the sun go down and no electric lights anywhere, just a few flickering candles. Took me back to my childhood and the three day week. 

National Parks


Took in a couple of national parks for some breathtaking scenery and amazing animals.

First up was Camdeboo National Park, home to the impressive Valley of Desolation. A long drive to the top on the hills gives up an amazing vistas over the plains below, interspersed with giant columns of stone. Truly stunning to stand on the edge of the cliff and see the immense space below. Gives you a real understanding of your own insignificance.

There is an fantastic ariel view of the town of Graaff-Reinrt nestled into a crook in the river, from the top. It was the fourth oldest European settlement in South Africa and an important stop on the trek north. It used to be a bit more wild. The vicar once had to shoot a Rhinosasaurus in his garden. No Rhinos here now but plenty of smaller animals in the park.

Heading south stopped off at Addo Elephant Park. It's the third largest national park in the country, and certainly lives up to its name. Chick full of elephants of all sizes as well as zebra, antelope, warthog and even a few lions. Went on a jeep trip and saw a couple flaked out under a tree. Not surprising, it was very hot.

Bloemfontein


Reached the city of Bloemfontein, one of the three capitals of the country. This one is the headquarters of the judiciary. It's a very laid back kind of place, a far remove from the hectic pace of Johannesburg, a couple of hundred miles north.

There are a few museums to take in, including one on the Boer War, not something I knew much about, but as you can guess, it ranked highly on history curriculums here. The is a lot on the brand new British invention which the war brought, Concentration camps. Not the best legacy for the world, but one introduced to keep control of the defeated farmers following the destruction of their farms.

Drove to the top of Naval hill for a wonderful panorama of the city. Not sure why it's called naval hill, as we are about as far from the ocean as it's possible to be in the country. It has a small game reserve so had to avoid the giraffe while driving up.

Finished at a strange art gallery. I thought they were having trouble with the cleaners as the floor was a right state, covered in sand. Apparently it was a work of art. I stepped over it and went out to enjoy the gardens.

Golden Gate


Heading south now on my way to Cape Town. Stopped off at Clarens on the edge of the Golden Gate national park.

It's not got a bridge like its American namesake, but it does have some staggering views. Did some walking and drive up to the Vulture feeding station. No vultures up there just a dead zebra waiting for them.

Drove onto Fliksburg, right on the border with Lesotho. A beautiful drive enlivened by the maniac drivers using it.

Pretoria


Took a trip up the motorway to visit Pretoria, one of the three capitals of South Africa.

It was the stronghold of the Boars and their treck through the wilderness is celebrated at the rather austere Voortreckker Monument. It's full of images of the noble Afrikaner liberating the land for the good of God.

From the roof you get a great view across the city towards the grand Union buildings on the hills across the valley. The presidential office is located here fronted by a huge statue of the first democratic president of the country, Nelson Mandella.

On the way back stopped off at the Sterkfontein Caves where one of our relatives had a little accident. Little foot's skeleton was found here after he died falling 20m into the caves. It was 3 million years ago and NHS waiting times were worse then, so he was never rescued. But his skeleton was preserved and found just 15 years ago. All of us are descended from those living in this area, so he must be a distant ancestor.

City tour

Spent the day exploring the sights and sounds of downtown Joberg and Soweto via the hop on hop off bus. 

A great experience and a great way to get around the city without having to walk everywhere, not quite knowing where you are going. Joberg has a certain reputation but I found it quite laid back and chilled. True there is a certain edginess to be found, but no more so than most American cities. Over certainly felt more uncomftabke in parts of Pittsburgh than I did in Joburg.

It is a lot better now than the low point in the 1990's, when the city centrer was all but abandoned by most business. You can see the legacy where buildings are inaccessible, the doors having been bricked up, to top their occupation by gangs.

One building which always remained open is the Carton Tower, which at 50 stories towers over the CBD. When it opend in 1974 it was the tallest building in Africa, a title that remarkably, it still holds today. Great views from the top. At the bottom is Ghandi square, named after the man who spent 21 years in the country, fighting for the rights of Indian workers, before returning to his homeland. 

One extra on the tour was a trip to Soweto. The South Western township where the white overlords forced their black workers to live, to keep the city centre whiite. Once the site of bloody battles, today it's a bustling vibrant place, especially around Varinazi Street. The only street in the world where two Nobel laureates had their homes. Nelson Mandella and Desmond Tutu both lived there at different times.

The museum dedicated to Hector Pieterson, the 13 year old boy who was killed during riots of 1976, and whose picture became a symbol of the oppression of the state, tells the story of the events of that time in a moving and poignant way. 

Johannesburg

Arrived in the city of Johannesburg and survived my first test, picking up the car and driving into the city. 

In a way it was incredibly simple, with freeways linking all the main points, far faster getting around than London. Off course you don't get people wandering up the motorway in London, which kind of slows things down a bit. I was quite amazed about how green it is. I guess I was expecting a urban wasteland. But the view from the freeway is of vibrant green hills.

Popped into the museum of apartheid on the way into the city, to get a sense of the history of the country. It's quite stunning how such a revolting regime lasted for so long, and amazing that when it all fell apart the country didn't self destruct in a blood soaked orgy of revenge.