Last day in Turkey and I visited the Dolmabahce Palace. It was where the last Sultan lived until he was deposed in 1923. A grand old palace right on the waterfront. Last night was the 84th Anniversary of the founding of the Republic of Turkey. Loads of students marching about the streets shouting patriotic slogans and cars with ever sounding horns draped in the Turkish flag. This country certainly doesn’t have a problem expressing its national pride. There is hardly a building which doesn’t display the Turkish flag. One thing I won’t miss are the stray cats everywhere. I’ve never seen so many tattered specimens. Off now to the airport for the flight home.

Drizzle and fog for my last full day in Turkey. Took a trip up the Bosporus on the ferry along with hundreds of others, it`s republic day today. Climbed up to the castle at Kavagi for a glorious view into the Black sea, and boy did it look black today. Great watching the massive ships gliding past below.

Bit of a nightmare getting into Istanbul centre as there was a blooming marathon going on so all the roads were closed around the route. Ended up dumping my car at the airport and travelling in by tram. Even that wasn`t immune and I ended up walking the last couple of miles to the hotel. The second time I`ve been caught up in a marathon. The last time I was on a bin Beijing. To relax after all that climbed the Galta tower for a spectacular view of the city.

Last full day with the car. I drove up Uludag, the mountain towering over Bursa, for some fantastic views over the whole city. Well worth all the winding roads on the way up to the top. Later drove back into Istanbul by way of Iznik, a charming little town on the edge of a lake. Spent a couple of hours wandering around the city walls. Got a bit lost on my way back into Istanbul and ended up in the wrong continent. Still it meant I got to cross the Bosphorus bridge, twice. Just as the sun was setting over the city.

Left Eskisehir in thick fog this morning. Not easy finding you way out of a city when you have no map, no signposts and no idea of which direction you are traveling in. Managed eventually to find a main road and a sign pointing to Ankara, so I headed in the opposite direction and made my way to Bursa. Bursa is a large city over the other side of the Marmara Sea from Istanbul. I`m staying in the springs area so have the promise of a mineral water bath later. A bit of a step up from last night, when a lack of hotel rooms forced me into one of the local hotels. The bed was very comfortable but the lack of hot water not so good.

Drove up through the Phrygian valley, or rather tried to. Got hopelessly lost quite a few times, the Turkish authorities don`t believe in overdoing the signposts. At one point I went through the same village three times. Still saw some of the sights, including some cave dwellings and King Midas tomb. Some beautiful scenery

Spent the day around Egirdir. Drove up into the mountains for a walk into a lovely Canyon. The drive was amazing in itself with wonderful views in every direction. Visited a national park around one of the lakes for a hike. The highlight was a visit to the tiny village of Akpinar. Once I had negotiated the cows in the village square, I found the viewpoint which gives a stunning panorama of the odd shaped Egirdir, with its two islands, way below in the distance. It was an amazing view and I could have stayed there for hours. Unfortunately the cows were getting nearer.

Spent most of the day at Hierapolis, the ancient city above the Travines. It is enormous. Roman citizens used to come to find cures in the hot springs, although gathering from the size of the Necropolis outside the city gates, the cures weren`t 100% effective. I had a swim in the hot springs in what was the sacred pool, compete with submerged pillars and statues. Although if you get a chance to swim in a pool full of lumps of marble, think twice unless you enjoy stubbed toes. Topped of the trip with a visit to another dead disciple, St. Philip this time, who was martyred in the hills above the city.

Long drive up from the coast to Pamakkale in Anatolia. Foul weather as I drove over the mountains so didn`t see much of a view. Dropped in at the city of Aphropite. Staying near the ruins of Hierapolis, an old Roman spa city. There are some amazing travines made from calcium deposits from mineral water. Unfortunately most of the water has dried up now as its been diverted for private use, so its not looking as wonderful as I`m sure it used to. Sitting outside a café as I write this. There is a gale blowing and I think most of the tree above has blown into my kebab.

After torrential rain in the night, today was a lovely sunny one. Spent it in Bodram visiting the castle and sitting by the sea. Bodram is a very beautiful place overlooking a picturesque bay. It`s a bit of a resort so filled with families on package deals sitting in bars watching football. And so many hairdressers. Just what about coming to south west Turkey makes you desperate for a hair cut?

Started and ended the day with visits to a couple of the Seven wonders of the Ancient World, although both past their prime. As I left Selcuk called in at the Temple of Artemis, or rather what was left of it which was mainly one pillar. Still it is a very impressive pillar. Called in at the Tomb of St John and also visited the house were Mary is meant to have spent her last few years. It’s at the top of a mountain so she obviously didn’t like visitors. Mind you the house was only discovered in the 19th Century by a nun in a dream, so I’m not entirely convinced. Still the hordes of pilgrims seem to think there’s something worth coming all the way up the hill for. Called in at Priene were there some wonderful structures. Was just sitting in peace, admiring the work of the Ancient World when a group of loud American tourists arrived, whose sole purpose of climbing up the hill seemed to be to take a picture of their stuffed monkey sitting in the Amphitheatre. Finished the day at Bodrum, home of the of tomb of King Mausolus known as the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus.

Yesterday explored the Cesme Peninsular, which juts out into the Aegean from Izmir bay. Very picturesque harbour and still plenty of holiday makers around. Goodness knows what it must be like in the heat of summer. Very near Greece, in fact my phone keeps welcoming me to Greece and then back to Turkey. It’s getting very confused. Drove down the coast to Selcuk. Spent today exploring the ancient site of Ephesus just outside the city, well it’s two days since I had a proper ruin so I was feeling a bit in need of one. Not that Ephesus is just any ruin. There are some amazing buildings, including a magnificent Theatre set into the hills. I took a seat in the Grand Circle waiting for the play to start but I had missed curtain up by two thousand years. The place was full of Tourists, mostly Japanese, but I did manage to find some quiet spots. Very quaint little town with an old Roman Aqueduct running though the centre.

Spent the day in the city, exploring the lanes and museums. Climbed to the top of the hill, to the castle built by Alexander the Great, for a fantastic view over the bay. Took the ferry over to the North side for some more views of the whole area.

Left Bergarma and drove down to the coast. Visited the lovely little town of Foca. It`s right on the Aegeon with a long waterfront split in two by a promontory. A bit like Scarborough with sun. It was a gorgeous day and spent ages just strolling around looking at the fishing boats chugging about in the water. Very relaxing. All that good work undone when I drove into Izmir city centre later in the day. Makes going round Hyde Park Corner look like a trip round a village green. Still I made it and am in a really nice hotel in the City Centre. Izmir is right on the bay. There is something magical about a city on the Ocean and it was great strolling along the Promenade, or Kordon, as the shadows grew impossibly long and the sun slid below the water. The city surrounds the bay and as darkness came the hills came to life with thousands of twinkling lights.

Woke up to sun shining on a blue sea, a change from yesterday`s drizzle. Left Assos and drove around the bay of Edremit to reach Bergama, or as it used to be called, Pergamum. At one time it held the second largest library in the world, beaten only by the one at Alexandra. As well as a fantastic Acropolis with a stunning position overlooking the town there is also the Asclepion, an ancient temple of healing in the valley below

From one battle site to another, slightly more ancient, as I climbed the walls of Troy. Not just one city here, but the remains of 9 different cities all built over each other. With a massive Trojan Horse at the entrance and views over the plains below towards the Aegean Sea it has a commanding presence. Later drove over to Assos, a tiny harbour below an Athenian temple. Wonderful views made the walk up to the temple well worthwhile.

Spent the day exploring the Gallipoli peninsular. A beautiful place it`s difficult to imagine that so many lost their lives in this spot. Drove to Anzac cove, where the initial landings took place and then up to Lone Pine Cemetery, where many from the allies are buried. Very sobering to see the row after row of grave markers, especially when reading how young some of the soldiers where. Many different cemeteries line the ridge of the hill, Allies one side of the road and Turkish the other, a measure of how near the front lines were at the height of the battle. Later drove down to the British Memorial at Cape Helles. A beautiful spot overlooking the many ships entering the Dardenells on their way to Istanbul or The Black Sea beyond. Have now left Europe by taking the ferry over to Canakale on the other side of the straits. Most hotels full as it is a holiday to celebrate the end of Ramadan. Managed to squeeze me in at the Helen.

Swapped the hustle of Istanbul`s streets for the madness of Turkeys roads. Picked up the car from the airport, so I didn`t have to drive in the city, and headed west. Weather hazy but coastline lovely. Took what I thought would be the shortest way but ended up on a dirt tack high above the sea. Still saw some wonderful views and bits of turkey you don`t see from a bus. Now at the small town of Eceabat looking over the Dardanelles, ready to explore the Gallipoli peninsula tomorrow.

Spent most of the day wandering around the various Mosques on offer in the city, and there are quite a few. The biggest in no longer a Mosque, having been turned into a museum when the country was secularised. The Aya Sofya is an amazing structure, all the more so for being built by the Emperor Justinian in 537. The Blue Mosque next door is almost as stunning and underneath the streets is an old Roman Cistern, a vast underground space used for storing water. Also visited the Grand Bazaar, an large covered area bustling with traders and tourists. Spent the rest of the day wandering the streets and looking at the views. Finished with a Fish Sandwich down by the docks.

Started the day with a walk up to the Topkapi Palace. The home of the Sultans of the Ottoman Empire it boasts a magnificent spot on the hill overlooking the Sea of Marmara and the Golden Horn. Wonderful old buildings and a treasury full of antiques. Rather to many people for my liking but still able to get into all the rooms and courtyards. Visited the Harem where the Sultan housed his 4 wives and 300 concubines. Afterwards explored the Hippodrome, where the Romans had their Circus, and the lanes around the old city. There was a play going on in front of the Blue Mosque. A man dressed as an Orange and a woman dressed as a Tomato were singing rock songs. Obviously an ancient Turkish tradition missed by the guide books.

Early morning flight from Heathrow. It was the second flight of the day, so no queues anywhere. Landed at midday and got tram into the city. Bizarre being on a brand new tram gliding through the streets of old Istanbul. Rather like being on a theme ride at Disney.
After checking in at my hotel, just next to the blue mosque, went for a walk around the old city. The Bosphorous was incredibly busy, ferries everywhere, and hundreds of men fishing. A strong breeze blowing in from Asia.