Last day so just sitting in central park, enjoying the beautiful sunshine, watching the fun runners and reflecting on my trip. I`ve visited 13 states, plus the District of Columbia, slept in 25 rooms and driven 4500 miles, which is more than enough to get me home if there was a bridge long enough. So it`s been quite a journey. I won`t miss traffic lights which stay on red forever, groups of American school kids or the rabid ranting on talk radio and Fox News. But I will miss the wonderful countryside, the bustling cities and the friendly people. And so much of the country still to explore. I must sort out some leave when I get back.

Caught the subway downtown. Walked around Ground Zero to see if much has changed. The actual site still looks much as it did 18 months ago, but I`m sure a lot has been done out of sight. It`s still a massive hole in the ground, about 8 stories deep. The is a memorial museum now with some moving exhibits. Lots of personal stories which bring home how some families suffered. Walked over the Brooklyn bridge for some stunning views of Manhattan and wandered around wall street and Battery Park. This evening went up to the viewing platform at the top of the Rockafella building. Amazing view of the whole city lit up like the Rockafella Christmas tree.

Dumped my car at Newark Airport and got the train in the city. Very glad I did and that I didn`t attempt to drive in. I had forgotten how mad this city is. After my weeks of a relaxing tour around the country, coming into the city makes you feel much as a soap bubble feels in a washing machine. Great vibe though. The sun has been out all day but it`s bitterly cold. When the weather man said this morning the wind chill would make it feel like zero degrees I thought that`s not to bad. I forgot they all still work in Fahrenheit. So it`s pretty icy. The sort of cold that makes it hard to breathe. I had to pop to Macys for some warmer clothing. The weather didn`t detour all the skaters on the Rockefeller plaza.

My last day with the car so travelled up through New Jersey to Newark. I won`t miss American drivers, who constantly hog the middle lane and all drive with a mobile phone attached to their head. Dropped in on Atlantic City on the way for a walk along the boardwalk. Despite being the low season, it was heaving with people. It was a beautiful day so I suppose that helped. The whole place is a bit like a film set with theamed casinos everywhere. From there passed through Princeton, which is mostly University. Very like Oxford. Just seen on TV that Queens Park has been hit by a tornado. I hope I have a home to return to.

Drove across the 17mile Chesapeake Bay bridge-tunnel which stretches across the mouth of the massive Chesapeake Bay. Lots of warships around going into Norfolk Naval base. When I was halfway across a plane dumped loads of parachutists into the ocean. I presume it was an exercise. Either that or the US was being invaded. From there travelled, via Ocean city, into Delaware, and to the coastal town of Lewes, in Sussex county. So I felt quite at home. Incidentally, the only news from the UK that I`ve seen on US TV involved a fireworks fire in Lewes. Walked around the town for a while before catching the ferry over to Cape May in New Jersey, which is very nice, but closed.

Travelled along the Albemarle coast highway to reach the outer islands on the edge of the Atlantic, home of two historic sights. The first was Fort Raleigh on Roanoke island, sight of the first English settlement on the American mainland. Named after Sir Walter, who supported it, the colony only lasted a few years before disappearing into history. No one knows what happened to the 108 settlers. The other site was at Kitty Hawk, location of the 1903 first powered flight. There`s a memorial to the Wright brothers and markers to show how far they got. Now in Virginia beach in a great motel with a lovely balcony over looking the ocean. Trouble it`s zero outside.

Spending my second night in North Carolina, although three weeks ago I was in the mountains and this time I`m at the coast. In Washington to be exact, after a long drive up from Charleston. Stopped at myrtle beach on the way, which was a dump, and New Bern, which was a delight. A lovely position on the river with parks and gardens. Arrived to late to tour the old royal governors palace but had a good look around the town. Christmas decorations everywhere, they don`t do these things by half. Passed one house which had an entire field covered with various animals made out of fairy lights. The electric bill must be frightening.

ontinued heading up the coast, doing a state a day on the way to New York. The storms that have been savaging the mid west finally reached here. thankfully not depositing the snow and ice they dumped on St Louis, but bringing rain and cold. Took refuge at Middleton Place, which has the oldest formal garden in North America as well as the tomb of one of the signatories to the declaration of independence. Lovely gardens full of birds. The Alligators were all hiding though. Travelled into Charleston, which has a wonderful position on a peninsula between two rivers. It looked pretty good in the rain, hoping the sun will appear tomorrow so I can see it in all its glory.

Drove along the Georgia coast, across the salt marshes, from Brunswick to Savannah, a gorgeous city full of historic buildings, alongside the Savannah river. Today was obviously the best day for Christmas parades, as I managed to catch two. First one was in Brunswick which I stumbled across this morning. Reminded me of the Heathfield carnivals we used to see. Same range of bank managers dressed up as clowns etc. More majorettes in this one though. And I don`t remember local celebrities beings honoured, such as Marti Tatch, elementary school teacher of the year. She got her own float. Second was here in Savannah this evening. It was a lighted procession, so a golden day for retailers of fairy lights.

New month, new State as I have entered "the historic state of Georgia, home of the 1996 Olympic games". At least that`s what it says on all the road signs as you enter the state. Obviously was a big thing in these parts. On the way up stopped at St Augustine, which in 1565 became the first European village established in the new world. Lots of old buildings full of history, and a wonderful old fort built by the Spanish settlers to protect the village from English pirates. There was a demonstration of a real cannon firing which sent the school groups into fits of ecstasy. Americans love a big bang.

Spent the day touring the sights of the Kennedy Space Center. A fascinating day with so much to see. Discovery was sitting on launch pad 39b, ready for its departure one week from today. It`s a night time launch so so should be pretty spectacular, apparently it lights up the coast. I don`t think I would like to be sitting on top of all that fuel. The acceleration on the Hulk ride yesterday was quite enough thank you. Now in Daytona, which, judging by my walk to the 7/11, is populated by drop outs and junkies. So back in the Motel, sitting on my balcony overlooking the beach, and listening to the waves.

Miles driven: 95

Well I had to visit one theme park while I was in Florida, so following the advice of my sister, I spent today at Universal. Have been spun, twisted, flung upside down, dropped from a great height, attacked by a shark and soaked to the skin. Great fun though. My motel room is now gently rocking back and forth and I`m feeling slightly nauseous. It didn`t help that there were no queues, so I was able to try out almost all of the rides.

Spent the day on either side of Tampa bay. This morning in St Petersburg and this afternoon in Tampa city itself. St Petersburg has a wonderful position right on the bay with great views over to the water. Lots of pelicans on the pier. Tampa was a lot busier. Loads of police and roads closed. I couldn`t work out why until I saw the news 9 truck reporting on the big game tonight.

Spent the morning exploring the Florida Capital building. It always amazes me how you can wander around legislative buildings in the US. Imagine being able to wander around the Palace of Westminster. I was able to look in the Senate as well as the House, and even the Governor`s reception area. Didn`t see Jeb, although his receptionist gave me a rundown on the paintings. Travelled down into central Florida and in Homosassa park saw some of the weirdest creatures ever. Manatees are native to Florida and are a sort of cross between an Elephant and a wood louse. They live in rivers where they hang around hot springs. Although totally harmless, imagine the shock if you were swimming and one of those showed up.

Travelled another hundred odd miles along the coast and lost the hour I previously gained when leaving Chattanooga. It must be very confusing for those living on the time zone border. Just popping to the shops and having to change your clock. Stopped in at the gulf world ocean show to see a couple of dolphins do some leaping about. Now in the state capital Tallahassee, built, as so many capitals are, midway between two rival contenders, Pensacola and St Augustine.

Spent the morning on the USS Alabama, a WWII battleship moored in Mobile bay. Very interesting but swarming with some very large people. There`s no way some of them would have fitted through some of the hatchways. Drove along the coast road into Florida, stopping at Pensacola for a walk around the city. Spending the night at Panama City. Gorgeous view of the ocean from my hotel room right on the beach.

Miles driven: 167

Left New Orleans and headed east along the gulf coast. Again the devastation was incredible. Houses of wood reduced to splinters, houses of brick reduced to rubble. Upturned boats alongside the highway. Such contrast to the beautiful, and incredibly calm, ocean on the other side of the road. Now in Mobile, pronounced mo-beel, Alabama. Saw a gorgeous sunset from Dolphin Island, at the entrance to Mobile bay.

Miles driven: 242

Everything closed in the city so I headed south, out to the swamps. Went walking in the National Park alongside the bayous but didn`t see any alligators. Apparently there were plenty about. Driving back to the city went through some neighbourhoods worst affected by Katrina. Row after row of abandoned buildings in various states of collapse. All marked with spray painted indicating how many bodies were found there. It`s as if the hurricane was last month. So much still to clear.

Miles driven: 75

Today is the busiest day on the roads in the USA sue to the holiday tomorrow, so I spent the day on the sidewalks of the city. After a rather unpleasant breakfast in the hotel, Americans can`t do breakfast, walked up to the French quarter. The whole of Louisiana was at various times controlled by the French, Spanish and British, before Napoleon got fed up with the whole place and sold it to the new American colony for 15 million dollars. Quite a deal as Louisiana at the time spread all the way to Oregon. The museum is in the building where the transfer was signed. The French quarter is the oldest part of the city and was relatively unscathed by Katrina, being one of the few parts of the city to actually be above sea level. It has some wonderful old buildings. Spent ages in the square just people watching.

Spent the morning looking around the capital building. It`s got a wonderful balcony on the 27th floor which gives a panoramic view over Baton Rouge. The city feels very relaxed, not at all like it`s the capital of a state. This afternoon I followed the river, though plantations galore, into New Orleans, which has a much edgier feel. Hotel is right in the centre of the city. It doesn`t seem possible that only 14 months ago it was all under water.

Finished the Natchez Parkway which, not suprisingly ended in Natchez, a lovely old town situated high on a cliff overlooking the Mississippi. The road follows an old Indian trail and is a much nicer drive than hurtling down the interstate, hemmed in by lorries. Spent some time wandering around the old town. It`s full of mansions built in the 19th century, all on the profits from the cotton trade. Saw an example of a cotton plant. It`s most bizarre. It looks like someone has gone mad with the cotton balls and stuck them on an old twig. Now in Baton Rouge which is so named as the local Indians used to plant stakes covered in blood.

Having hit the river I decided I had probably gone far enough west so headed south into the Magnolia state. Not yet overdosed on Elvis I dropped in at his birthplace in Tupelo. It is far removed from Graceland, just a two room shack on the wrong side of town. Now travelling down the Natchez highway which goes down across the heart of Mississippi. Staying in the capital, Jackson. In the real south now where the accents are broader and the faith stronger. The churches are massive, and unlike British ones, are full of people.

Miles driven: 293

Walked down to the Lorraine Motel, a few blocks south, where in 1968, Martin Luther King was assassinated. It`s now the home of the civil rights museum. Spent hours looking at the displays. Sobering to think it was all so recent, within my lifetime that the USA still had segregation. Lovely sunny day so wandered up and down Beale street, home of the blues, and absorbed the music coming out of every bar.

After a visit to the president`s house yesterday, went to the king`s today. A lovely house, much smaller than I thought it would be. Felt very homely and much of it is just as Elvis left it. Massive collection of his clothes, cars and memorabilia. They even have his personal jet, the Lisa Marie, in the car park. His grave is in the garden along with his parents. Afterwards visited Sun studios where Elvis paid $4 to record a single in 1953. Many others also launched their careers there including Jerry Lee Lewis and Johnny Cash. Finished the day by watching the sun set over the Mississippi.

Paid a visit to the Hermitage, the home of seventh president Andrew Jackson. Lovely old house just outside Nashville. Lots to see including the old slave quarters. Drove the 200 miles to Memphis, along some very busy highways. Weather still wet but all the forecasts say it will improve for the weekend. Looks like I just missed the tornadoes which hit Memphis and Alabama yesterday and which are now heading through Virginia.

Very wet in Nashville, so I headed for the Country Music Hall of Fame. Lots of memorabilia including Elvis`s gold plated limo, probably the tackiest thing I have ever seen. The tour included a trip to RCA Studio B, where many famous records were recorded, stuff by Dolly Parton, Jim Reeves and much of Elvis`s collection. Talking of Elvis, looking at his placque in the hall of fame, I realized that today I am exactly the same age, to the day, as he was when he died. Spooky.

Spent the day enjoying the sights of Chattanooga. Took the free shuttle up to the waterfront for a walk along the river. Chattanooga was the start of the trail of tears, where the Cherokee Indians were rounded up and marched off to Oklahoma, so the white settlers could expand their farms. Spend the afternoon up lookout mountain. Great views over the city. They say you can see seven states from here. It was a bit hazy so I think I could only see three. Not sure about the rock garden with Gnomes acting out famous fairy tales but the locals seemed to like it. Now in Nashville

Miles driven: 155

Yesterday had a long long journey down the Blue Ridge Parkway. Great views stretching miles in every direction. Slight diversion because of snow in the hills. Stayed the night on the boundary of the Great Smokey Mountains National Park and woke to a thick frost. Spent most of the day in the park, walking, driving and enjoying the views. They certainly have a smoky look. Decided against visiting Dollywood and drove onto Chattanooga, no sign yet of the choo choo.

Miles driven: Sun 355 Mon 245

Drove down to Schuyler, boyhood home of Earl Hammer, creator of the Waltons. Brought a can of coke in Ike Godsey`s store and visited the local elementary school, now home of the Waltons Mountain Museum. Heard the Rockfish train hooting in the valley, very evocative. Then down to poplar forest, hideaway home of Thomas Jefferson. Beautiful weather and gorgeous autumn colours.

Miles driven: 172

Travelled south from DC taking in the wonderful Mount Vernon on the way. The home of George Washington for many years. Visited on my first visit 12 years ago. This time his false teeth were on display so well worth a second visit. Drove down to Charlottesville in the afternoon but got caught in the veteran`s day holiday traffic.

Miles driven: 135

Finished the weeks coverage of the American Midterms and finally got some time to enjoy Washington. Beautiful day with the district drenched in sunset. Walked to the Jefferson memorial and then onto Arlington cemetery. One more night in D.C. Before picking up my car tomorrow.

Friday night in Reykjavik and the streets are heaving with revellers. My last full day in Iceland began in driving rain so I headed back to the capital and some museums. Cleared up later so went for a long walk around the city, at one point going past the domestic airport. Quite an unusual feeling having a jet take off over your head. Back to London tomorrow.

Bleak this morning with gale force winds and horizontal rain. Drove around the fjord to see the view but the mountains were mostly hidden in cloud. Bit better this afternoon. Saw a seal colony at the end of one promontory. To get there had to drive 30km down a dirt track and then hike 2km along the coast, battling winds straight from the north pole. I did think that the colony at the end of the pier at San Francisco was slightly more accessible, but did feel I`d achieved something seeing this one.

Traveled to the end of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula and am staying beneath the old Volcano Snaefellsjokull. Not that I can see much of it as it´s clothed in cloud at present. I pinched the picture of the Internet. According to Jules Verne you can go on a Journey to the Centre of the Earth by descending into the Crater. Don´t think I´ll be trying that. Think of the walk back.

Spent the day in Akureyri where the nights are really drawing in. Looked out of my hotel window at midnight to see a glorious sunset giving the mountains on the other side of the fjord a golden glow.
Officially night is about two hours long at present , but it never gets dark. The sun just dips below the horizon for a couple of hours. On 21st June there is just 21 minutes between sunset and sunrise, and just a few kilometres north you hit the arctic circle where the sun doesn`t set. Of course it`s all balanced out in winter when it hardly gets light.
As the saying goes had all four seasons today. Glorious summer this morning and winter this afternoon. When the rain came on I retreated to the local pool. The main pool is 29°c and the hotpots around it go up to 43°c. Couldn`t stay in that one for long though. Felt like a blanched sprout.

Wonderful day whale watching just of the coast of Husavik. Clear skies and beautiful mountains around the bay. Saw a Minke whale, Humpbacked whale and a Blue whale, the largest animal on earth. It did a poo right by the boat, and that was pretty impressive as well. Now in Akureyri, a lovely city at the end of a long fjord.

Up to lake Myvatn, ominously translated as midge lake on account of the hundreds of the varmints which hang around the lake ready to take a dive towards the nearest source of carbon dioxide, usually up someone`s nose. However the good news was that it`s so damn cold they are all in hibernation. There are some lovely views and peaceful walks down by the lake and among the lava flows. Spent most of the day exploring them and then had a well deserved dip in the local geothermal pool.

Writing this overlooking the wonderful Seydisfjordur fjord. Just finished an exhausting walk up over the mountain. Stunning scenery and no one around for miles. Lots of waterfalls and snow patches to negotiate. Weather ok as well just a few spots of rain. Back in the quaint old town now. Ferries go from here to Lerwick, so if I don`t want to fly it`s the only way back.

Weather was too good to last. After some lovely sunshine yesterday back to rain and wind today. Drove along the coast around some wonderful fjords, and along some very bumpy roads. Tonight in Egilsstadir, the capital of the east, with a population of 1637. Just been for a dip in the local pool. Lovely and warm.

Did the Golden circle yesterday . Well most of it as I branched of to head east along the coast. First stop was Pingvellir the site of the old Icelandic parliament, the Alping, set in a stunning location on the rift between Europe and north America. Drove up to Geyser, the original you might say, although it is well past its prime now and only performs after earthquakes. Luckily it has a sister to do the honours. Up to gullfoss to see an outstanding waterfall then across lava planes and past volcanoes to the coast.

Today woke to sunny skies for the first time. Drove along the south coast taking in many stunning glaciers and wonderful sights. saw thousands of Puffin on the cliffs near Vik. Tonight in Hofn

Left a blistering hot London for the three hour flight to Iceland. Picked up hire car and drove the 50km into Reykjavik. Nice hotel overlooking the bay, even if they haven`t finished building it yet.
Evening spent wandering around old town.
Spent next day driving around the Reykjanes peninsula. Foul weather, windy and wet. Bizarre landscape of lava and lakes. Visited the famous Blue Lagoon spa and spent a couple of hours submerged in wonderfully warm volcanic water.