Stopped off at Mossel Bay, and am not the first to do so. In fact the first was Bartolomeu Dias who popped in in 1488. The difference, he wasn't able to use booking.com for his hotel. Also his trip ashore ended badly when the local people chased him off in a hail of stones. They are a lot friendlier today. There is a replica of the ship he used to get here in the museum. Tiny springs to mind. And Dias and his crew were on it for six months.
My hotel was right at the top of a very steep hill. Fantastic for the wide sweeping views over the bay. Not so good for the very steep walk up from town.
The museum grounds contain a tree, still standing since the start of the 16th century. It was used as a post tree. Ships on an outward course to India would leave messages in an old boot under the tree, and ships returning home would pick them up as they passed by. You can send postcards by posting them in a replica boot.
Thursday, January 29, 2015
Stopped off in Wilderness on my trip along the cost. Woke up to see Dolphins frolicking in the sea just off the shore.
Had a closer encounter with a different kind of animal when I visited the Snake Park at Plettenberg. They have all kinds of snakes there which the guides explain in a very casual way. This is the most dangerous snake in Africa, he said as he leapt into the pit containing Puff Adders. Luckily the one he draped around my neck was a lot more harmless, and docile.
Spent today in the national park, walking up to a waterfall. Very beautiful around here, and. Heap. I could buy a luxury four bedroom house with a view of the ocean for half the cost of my London house.
Now traveling along the coast of the Cape along the famous Garden Route from Port Elizabeth to the finish at Cape Town.
Port Elizabeth has a glorious position on the coast overlooking Nelson Mandela bay. It's called the Windy City, for obvious reasons. Lots of people enjoying the weekend on the beach.
Now in Plettenberg Bay after an overnight stay in Jeffrey's bay. Staying in a hotel right on the beach with a view of the sands from my room. Lots to see and on my way stopped off at monkey world, a place where rescued monkeys are rehabilitated, it's next door to the Tenikwa wildlife rescue centre where wild cats are housed. You can go right in the cages with the Cheetahs, standing right next to some very large felines.
Experienced one of South Africa's rolling power cuts tonight. Quite enchanting watching the sun go down and no electric lights anywhere, just a few flickering candles. Took me back to my childhood and the three day week.
Took in a couple of national parks for some breathtaking scenery and amazing animals.
First up was Camdeboo National Park, home to the impressive Valley of Desolation. A long drive to the top on the hills gives up an amazing vistas over the plains below, interspersed with giant columns of stone. Truly stunning to stand on the edge of the cliff and see the immense space below. Gives you a real understanding of your own insignificance.
There is an fantastic ariel view of the town of Graaff-Reinrt nestled into a crook in the river, from the top. It was the fourth oldest European settlement in South Africa and an important stop on the trek north. It used to be a bit more wild. The vicar once had to shoot a Rhinosasaurus in his garden. No Rhinos here now but plenty of smaller animals in the park.
Heading south stopped off at Addo Elephant Park. It's the third largest national park in the country, and certainly lives up to its name. Chick full of elephants of all sizes as well as zebra, antelope, warthog and even a few lions. Went on a jeep trip and saw a couple flaked out under a tree. Not surprising, it was very hot.
Reached the city of Bloemfontein, one of the three capitals of the country. This one is the headquarters of the judiciary. It's a very laid back kind of place, a far remove from the hectic pace of Johannesburg, a couple of hundred miles north.
There are a few museums to take in, including one on the Boer War, not something I knew much about, but as you can guess, it ranked highly on history curriculums here. The is a lot on the brand new British invention which the war brought, Concentration camps. Not the best legacy for the world, but one introduced to keep control of the defeated farmers following the destruction of their farms.
Drove to the top of Naval hill for a wonderful panorama of the city. Not sure why it's called naval hill, as we are about as far from the ocean as it's possible to be in the country. It has a small game reserve so had to avoid the giraffe while driving up.
Finished at a strange art gallery. I thought they were having trouble with the cleaners as the floor was a right state, covered in sand. Apparently it was a work of art. I stepped over it and went out to enjoy the gardens.
Wednesday, January 21, 2015
Heading south now on my way to Cape Town. Stopped off at Clarens on the edge of the Golden Gate national park.
It's not got a bridge like its American namesake, but it does have some staggering views. Did some walking and drive up to the Vulture feeding station. No vultures up there just a dead zebra waiting for them.
Drove onto Fliksburg, right on the border with Lesotho. A beautiful drive enlivened by the maniac drivers using it.
Tuesday, January 20, 2015
Took a trip up the motorway to visit Pretoria, one of the three capitals of South Africa.
It was the stronghold of the Boars and their treck through the wilderness is celebrated at the rather austere Voortreckker Monument. It's full of images of the noble Afrikaner liberating the land for the good of God.
From the roof you get a great view across the city towards the grand Union buildings on the hills across the valley. The presidential office is located here fronted by a huge statue of the first democratic president of the country, Nelson Mandella.
On the way back stopped off at the Sterkfontein Caves where one of our relatives had a little accident. Little foot's skeleton was found here after he died falling 20m into the caves. It was 3 million years ago and NHS waiting times were worse then, so he was never rescued. But his skeleton was preserved and found just 15 years ago. All of us are descended from those living in this area, so he must be a distant ancestor.
Spent the day exploring the sights and sounds of downtown Joberg and Soweto via the hop on hop off bus.
A great experience and a great way to get around the city without having to walk everywhere, not quite knowing where you are going. Joberg has a certain reputation but I found it quite laid back and chilled. True there is a certain edginess to be found, but no more so than most American cities. Over certainly felt more uncomftabke in parts of Pittsburgh than I did in Joburg.
It is a lot better now than the low point in the 1990's, when the city centrer was all but abandoned by most business. You can see the legacy where buildings are inaccessible, the doors having been bricked up, to top their occupation by gangs.
One building which always remained open is the Carton Tower, which at 50 stories towers over the CBD. When it opend in 1974 it was the tallest building in Africa, a title that remarkably, it still holds today. Great views from the top. At the bottom is Ghandi square, named after the man who spent 21 years in the country, fighting for the rights of Indian workers, before returning to his homeland.
One extra on the tour was a trip to Soweto. The South Western township where the white overlords forced their black workers to live, to keep the city centre whiite. Once the site of bloody battles, today it's a bustling vibrant place, especially around Varinazi Street. The only street in the world where two Nobel laureates had their homes. Nelson Mandella and Desmond Tutu both lived there at different times.
The museum dedicated to Hector Pieterson, the 13 year old boy who was killed during riots of 1976, and whose picture became a symbol of the oppression of the state, tells the story of the events of that time in a moving and poignant way.
Arrived in the city of
Johannesburg and survived my first test, picking up the car and driving into the city.
In a way it was incredibly simple, with freeways linking all the main points, far faster getting around than London. Off course you don't get people wandering up the motorway in London, which kind of slows things down a bit. I was quite amazed about how green it is. I guess I was expecting a urban wasteland. But the view from the freeway is of vibrant green hills.
Popped into the museum of apartheid on the way into the city, to get a sense of the history of the country. It's quite stunning how such a revolting regime lasted for so long, and amazing that when it all fell apart the country didn't self destruct in a blood soaked orgy of revenge.
