Now in the capital of the state, Gantok. Another city built up a steep hillside. The one thing you do need in Sikkim is good calf muscles. Sikkim is almost like a different country. Very clean if basic. Of course it was a different country until 1975 when India annexed it.
The monastery over the valley is the home of the Black hat Buddhist sect. Their spiritual leader is the other side of the country though as he resides in Dharamsala with the Dali Lama. A rival lives nearby and there have been raids by militant Buddhists, so the place is tightly armed. We arrived on the last day of a holy festival, so the monastery hall was full of monks chanting and blowing horns and praying. An incredible spectacle.
What a difference a day makes. Went to bed with ferocious thunderstorms raging overhead and torrential rain pounding on the tin roof. And woke to clear sky's with the worlds third tallest mountain bathed in sunlight visible in all its glory from the comfort of my warm bed.
Another long drive took us to Khecheopalri, a lake holy to both Buddhists and Hindus. Climbed up to the view point to see the lake in all its glory. It was a long climb up but hopefully improved our Khama.
The afternoon the guide decided we would visit the Rhododendron Festival taking place this week in a tiny village high up in the hills. Getting there involved a 8 km ride up a dirt ridden track, all ten of us crammed into. 4 wheel drive jeep. Quite an experience. They were pleased to see us when we did arrive and gave us VIP seats in the First Minister of Sikkim's hut.
The journey into Sikkim is a long one on winding, twisting narrow roads edged by sheer drops. Not easy in good weather, but in fog it made and interesting journey from Darjeeling. By the crow flies we have traveled just 18 miles from the hill station. By road it was over 80 miles and took seven hours.
Once we got below cloud level there were some wonderful views. Sikkim was an independent kingdom until 1975 when it was annexed by India, and you still need a special permit to enter. It's a fascinating place, soaring hills tower over deep valleys, with narrow roads twisting and turning as they zig zag their way up the sides of the valleys, passing some stomach churning sheer drops to the river far far below.
Pelling is up in the clouds and so we arrived at the hotel in thick fog with thunder crashing in the hidden mountains.
With Kolkata hitting the 40's have escaped into the cool refreshing breeze of the Himalayan foothills and the tow of Darjeeling.
The trip involved another overnight train up forum the city and then a 3 hour drive up into the hills around rather sharp bends overlooking some rather scary drops. Not for the faint hearted, especially the way Indians drive.
Darjeeling is a quaint little town built literally on the side of a hill. Whatever made anyone want to build here is a mystery given some near vertical climbs to get to places.
The whole place is shrouded in mist at present so no chance of seeing img the glorious views that the place is renowned for, apart from the odd tanterlising glimpse through the clouds.
Certainly seen lots of tea bushes. And some glorious flower displays. Something the locals got from the British as a love of pot plants.
Took the train down from Varanasi into West Bengal and its capital Kolkata. As train journeys go it was long, about 14 hours, but largely uneventful. Quite soothing being rocked to sleep as the train chugged through the countryside.
Arrived in Kolkata at the huge Howrah station on the west side of the river, so had to get the ferry into the city itself, a bargain at 5 Rupees, around 8p.
It's like being in a different country her. The people look darker are much more reserved. Sill get the requests to join people for a selfie though. It must be "have your picture taken with a weird looking foreigner" week. In Varanasi I even had a three year only plonked on my lap so the proud dad could take a picture.
Very very hot here so taking time to get used to the heat. Visited the Victoria memorial, a great palace plonked in the park to honour the dead Empress.
Took an early morning trip out onto the river to see the sunrise. It was already bustling with people bathing and washing in the river, The laundry service was going full pelt with sheets being bludgeoned into cleanliness.
Hundreds were taking the early oppotunity to purify themselves in the holy waters. Nothing like bathing in a sea of Ecoli to set you up for breakfast.
Took a walk out to the fort on the other side of the river, which involved crossing what was described in the Lonely Planet as a sturdy pontoon bridge. What the guidebook didn't say is that I would be sharing it with hundreds of walkers, cyclists, motorbikes and auto-rickshaws? Going both ways on both sides of the bridge. Add to the fact it had a few decidedly ropey planks in spots it was an adventurous walk.
The fort had seen better days but the museum was interesting, containing a few relics of the Raj, such as an Ivory Howdah, bit insensitive, to a set of dueling pistols. It was packed with Indian tourists, and me. A father plonked his 2 year old daughter
Arrived by Train in Varanasi, the city on the banks of the Ganges that has been the spiritual heart of India for several thousand years.
The river bank is lined with Ghats, steep stone steps edging steeply down towards the river. It's difficult to imagine that in a few months all these steps will be underwater as the monsoon floods hit the city.
It's a good city to die in, if you are Hindu, as it means you can break part of the cycle of endless rebirth and edge towards nirvana. Around 80 bodies are cremated each day on the Ghats, each funeral pyre taking around 3 hours to burn. It;s fascinating watching the ceremonies take place, with the bodies being first immersed in the Ganges before being laid on the pyre.
Further along, people are bathing in the river to cleanse their sins. Given the city still pumps raw sewage into the river, cleansing may not be the word.
In the evening I got rowed out to witness the daily ceremony of Aarti, where Braman priests conduct ceremonies with fire and smoke before a devoted audience. The river is chock full of boats all containg either devotees or tourists. Hawkers step from boat to boat with offerings or snacks to sell. It's a mad chaotic spectacular that feels very magical.
Took the bus up to Lucknow, capital of Utter Pradesh. Bus was very efficent but the auto-rickshaw ride the other end was interesting. Dispite promising he knew where the hotel was, the driver had no idea, so we careered through the streets with me leaning over his shoulder holding my iPhone for him to follow the directon on google maps.
Lucknow has several interesting sigthts, including the former British Residency, which in 1857 came under seige during the Indian uprising. Over 6000 were killed and many lie in the cemetary adjouring the site. The building has been left as it was at the end of the seige, with the walls pockmarked with bullet and cannon ball holes.
Another building is the elaborate tomb of a local Holy man, the Bara Imambara. Upstairs is a labyrinth where many narrow corridors lead eventually up onto the roof. It was worth the climb for a great view over the city.
Walking back as always is an adventure, not helped by the limited pavement being full of traders of all varieties, forcing you to walk in the road.
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Spent my last full day in India by wandering up Marine Drive towards the Malabar Hills area. Visited the house where Gandhi stayed when he visited Bombay. It`s now a museum full of memorabilia, including his letter to Hitler suggesting he call the whole war off. I surpose it was worth a try. Getting ready to leave. It will be a shock to get back to London, where no one shouts hello as you walk down the street. I`ve got quite used to it.
Friday, February 22, 2008
After a quiet day in Paniji, caught the overnight train up to Mumbai. It was all incredibly efficient and reasonably comfortable. We all had sheets and a pillow and it was quite soothing being rocked to sleep. Met an Indian couple who were going back to Delhi where they work for New Delhi TV. Their heroes are Lyse Doucet and Manisha Tank. Arrived in Mumbai at 6am, bang on time. It was still dark , so I dumped my stuff at the station and went to explore Bombay waking up. It was amazingly quiet, although all around there were signs that the city was waking up. Got to the Gateway of India just as dawn was breaking and saw the sunrise over the arch. Mumbai hasn’t changed that much since I was last here in 1996. The city is still very different to the rest of India. A real contrast of the haves and have nots. You can be watching children in posh school uniforms play cricket on the Oval Maiden, and suddenly feel a tap on your leg from a three year old beggar who wants money so he can get something to eat. As the sun went down I walked up to Chowpatty Beach and had a head massage. It was intense.
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Took a trip out to Old Goa, clinging to the back of a motorbike taxi. It`s the old Portuguese capital, from were the state was run from for a few hundred years before malaria and Cholera forced the inhabitants nearer the coast. It still has some amazing old churches in various states of ruin. One, the
Basilica of Bom Jesus, houses the body of
St. Francis Xavier. Apparently the body is incorruptible and you can still see the old boy lying inside. Every ten years they take him out for an airing and millions of pilgrims come to pay their respects. Form what I could see he did look a bit withered. He`s missing an arm as well as it was hacked of and sent to the Pope, where it magically wrote his name. Paul Daniels has nothing on these Siants. There is also a wondrous cross on which the figure of Jesus has been known to move and attempt to speak. No words were heard, so not quite as skillful as Ray Allen, but I guess it gives Emu a run for his money. Walked back to Panjim so have a few more blisters.
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Took a trip up the river
Mandovi into the backwaters of Goa. very hot but quite relaxing sitting on the deck watching the palm trees glide by. We stopped for lunch at a spice plantation in the interior. Lots of explanation of how different spices are made and their benefits or side effects. Don`t eat pineapple if you are pregnant. The lunch was a typical Goan mean and incredibly tasty, although I did crunch on something which was rather hotter than I was expecting, and was rather alarmed at the steam which started coming out of my ears.
Monday, February 18, 2008
Headed into Panaji, or Punjim, the capital of Goa. It`s quite a shock how small Goa is. I`ve been used to traveling vast distanced in this country to get anywhere, but the trip into Panaji only took an hour on the bus. Staying in a lovely hotel based on an old Portuguese mansion. The whole city has a gentler, laid back feeling that the rest of India doesn`t have. It`s just pleasant wandering the streets looking at the building s and enjoying the Sunshine. You still get hustled by the children, begging you to give them a pen or some money, but it doesn`t seem so insistent.
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Caught the passenger train into the former Portuguese enclave of Goa, a couple of hours north. Spending the night at Colva, on the coast. A bit of a resort but with a long wonderfully sandy beach, filled with Indian families on a Sunday afternoon out. According to the local paper I missed a bit of excitement in the mroning as police had to break up am illegal bullfight, however I saw no sign of trouble and it was all over by the time my rickshaw trundled into town.
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Gokarna, or Gokan, is an ancient village site on the coast in the north of Karnataka. It`s one of the most holy sites in Hinduism, as it`s where Shiva was reborn through a cow`s ear. Consequently the place is full of Hindu pilgrims taking the waters and parading around the village making offerings. It also has some fantastic beaches which is what brings the western backpackers. Spent most of the day lazing around on the beach, watching the pilgrims and the holiday makers and wandering over the coastal paths. Internet a bit dodgy here so I can`t upload pictures. Will do when I can.
Friday, February 15, 2008
Gokarna, or Gokan, is an ancient village site on the coast in the north of Karnataka. It`s one of the most holy sites in Hinduism, as it`s where Shiva was reborn through a cow`s ear. Consequently the place is full of Hindu pilgrims taking the waters and parading around the village making offerings. It also has some fantastic beaches which is what brings the western backpackers. Spent most of the day lazing around on the beach, watching the pilgrims and the holiday makers and wandering over the coastal paths. Internet a bit dodgy here so I can`t upload pictures. Will do when I can.
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Yesterday took a long bus ride over the Ghats to Mangalore of the coast. It was seven hours of some of the bumpiest roads imaginable, my body is still shaking. Fascinating scenery though, We drove through many coffee plantations clinging to the sides of various mountains. I never knew there was so much coffee in India. It is also the home of a sizable Tibetan community so there were lost of monks about. Today took a local bus out to the beach at Ullal. Incredibly hot so I took a dip in the swimming pool which was heaven and very relaxing. Then had to get the bus back. Head up the coast on the train tomorrow.
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Gave my feet a rest and hired an auto rickshaw for the day, to take me to the ancient site of Srirangapatnam. I know it is a bit of an extravagance and I could have done it on the bus for a tenth of the price, but hell, you only live once. As it was it cost a massive 20 Rupees for the day, which equates to about 3 pounds. The driver was very friendly, even if he did insist on a slight detour to his house in the back lanes so I could meet his wife and three daughters. Srirangapatnam was the home of Hyper Ali and his son Tipi Sultan, for where they ruled much of south India in the eighteenth century. It all came to an end when the British trashed the fort in 1799. The summer palace is still standing, after the battle it was used as the home of the Duke of Wellington, so they looked after it. It`s full of some interesting relics.
Monday, February 11, 2008
Spent the morning looking around the Maharajah`s palace. An amazing place with some wonderful architecture as well as a magnificent parade ground where elephants used to perform. There was still a moth eaten one around giving rides to children along with a few bedraggled camels. In the afternoon got the bus up to the top of Chamundi Hill. It’s one of the seven most sacred sites in India, so much so that plastic is banned from the entire hillside. It’s better Karma if you walk up, but my blisters preferred that I got the bus. There is an ancient temple on the top full of devotees offering all kinds of things to the various gods. Coconuts seemed to be the choice of the day. The spot has great views over the whole of the city along with some mischievous monkeys. I did walk down and as usual got hopelessly lost. Eventually found my way back to the hotel, which has a very refreshing swimming pool.
