Sunday, November 09, 2014
Last day in Korea so spent it at a couple of Royal palaces I had missed including the shrine where the spirits gf the past kings reside. They live in little wooden boxes in a beautiful garden in the centre of the city. Not a bad way to enjoy your death.
Climbed up Namsan mountain for a final look over the city from the tower on the top. It's a wonderful view. The walk was strap, and half the city joined me on the climb. But the view from the top was stunning with the while metropolis laid outatyou feed. Certainly gives you an idea of the massive size of the city.
Saturday, November 08, 2014
Crossed Into North Korea today by virtue of a trip to the DMZ and the Joint Security Area. Quite a bizarre and slightly scary place where soldiers from the Republic of Korea stand face to face with their counterparts from the People's Republic of Korea.
The actual border is just marked by a concrete block, and you could walk to the north of it wasn't for the fact you would probably be shot on the way. You can feel the tension as the soldiers eyeball each other just a few feet apart.
To enter the DMZ. First you have to be briefed by US soldiers and sign a waver that if you get shot by North Korea you won't hold the government responsible. Then you are taken by bus, through the tank traps and mine fields up to the row of buildings which mark the border.
You can then gaze into the North and watch the guards observing you. You can look at the propaganda village of Gijeong-dong with its massive flag and its streets empty of people. And you can see the tree where two U.S. Soldiers were hacked to death while trying to trim a tree in 1968.
You even walk into the North inside the building which straddles the cease fire line and see where all major talks between the North and South take place.
There are occasional incidents all the time, the most recent last month when South Korean activists sent up balloons with peace messages only to have them spot down by the guards of the North.
Finished with a look at one of the tunnels North Korea tried digging under the line as a possible invasion route
Friday, November 07, 2014
Now in Suwon. Back in the suburbs of Seoul. It's home to another fortress, one larger and much more complete than the on in Gongju. Parts of it look practically new, which, given it was rebuilt after the Japanese trashed it. Is not surprising.
For the price of 1000 won you can walk the 5km of ramparts, including a very steep stretch which would give the Great Wall a run for its money. GreAt view from the top.
Decided the long walk to the toilet museum was probably not worth it, much as it would have been interesting seeing statues of various people relieving themselves. The city is obviously proud it it as it tops their things to do list.
Wednesday, November 05, 2014
In the city of Daejeon, which the Lonely Planet is very dismissive off, but I found to be a lovely town on the banks of the river.
It's the seat of government for the province and shares many attributes of similar cities around the world. For some reason politicians like there centres to have vast sweeping boulevards and monumental buildings. I think they think it gives them gravitas. It sure makes crossing the road take an eternity.
The city of Gongju, just a short bus ride away, was once the capital. The old fortress stands guard over the new town with sweeping views across the countryside. The walls are all that remain now. The buildings are long gone.
Sunday, November 02, 2014
Spent a couple of days on the city of Daegu, an hour north of Busan. Came up by train. The timetables give you an idea of how compact the country is, as the high speed KTX train could have got me to Seoul in just a couple of hours. Took the slower one though which wound its way up through the river valley.
Deagu is a friendly little city up in the hills. Visited the Arbaretum, built on land reclaimed from a landfill dump. It certainly is a pleasant place to while away a few hours even if you are accompanied by most of the population. There was s flower exhibition on which may explain the crowds. Believe me there is nothing you can't make out of a few potted plants.
Getting around should be easy on the subway, although I did manage to head in the wrong direction,twice. So annoying when you count the stops and when you get to zero you are no where near where you think you are.
Price is very cheap, around 1200 won or about 50p. Someone on the train asked me why the London subway is so expensive. Good question.
Thursday, October 30, 2014
Spent a day up on the mountain overlooking the city. I could have hiked up or take the cable car. I took the cable car.
And old fortress ones stood on the crown of the hill. Just the gates a left now, heavily restored. Place was packed with Korean ramblers, all wearing the universal uniform of ramblers worldwide, woolly hats, walking sticks and silly socks.
Visited the United Nations cemetery where thousands of those killed in action in the Korean war are interred. It's the only UN cemetery on the world, with war dead from each of the 15 countries who participated in the war represented. And interesting list of countries with some surprising entries on the list. Very moving place and very sad when you remember the Korean War cost so many lives with the end position being almost identical to the start.
Tuesday, October 28, 2014
Back on the coast and as far south as I can get on land. In the vast city of Busan, Korea's second city and on of its largest ports. The buildings are locked in to the river valleys, hemmed in by the mountains, producing rivers of construction flowing down to the sea.
No ancient monuments here, but plenty of more modern attractions. Visited the seaside suburb of H. A lovely spot looking out into the ocean. Followed the crowd up to a viewpoint which involved walking along some railway tracks. No one seamed very worried though. I think the trains were off today.
Easy to get to via subway. As a help they play the sound of seagulls every time we reach a beach station. Very helpful.
Came back vie the worlds largest department store at Centrum City. It certainly is big. Must have the most number of employees judging by the numbers behind the counter.
Saturday, October 25, 2014
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Now in Gyeonju in the south of the country and once the capital of the great Shilla Empire. Around the time the Romans were invading Britain there were a million people living in this city. Ll that remains from that time now are the impressive tombs of the kings of Shilla, which are dotted about the city. They give The landscape a surreal look, with grassy mounds splashed all over the landscape. Some amazing golden relics have been excavated from them and are displayed at the city museum.
The weather was beautiful today so spent time wandering through the city taking in the views. Plent of families out enjoying the weekend sun. Hotel is right in the centre next to one of the tombs.
Today got the bus out to a temple in the mountains. Beautiful spot slightly impaired by the thousands of tourists all milling around. Walked back to the city so my legs are falling off now.
Heading down the cost now and the sun has returned to speed me on my way. Taking the bus as the rail service on this side of the peninsular is very erratic.
The buses are very efficient, but lack a bit of charm. The run bang on time to the minute though.
Spent the night at Donghae, a small town 60 miles south of Sokcho. Very pleasant place right by the sea although the beach won't be winning any records. Difficult to get to as well given the miles of razor wire guarding it.
Visited some caves with some impressive stalagmites and stalactites. They give you a hard had when you enter, which is just as well given the height if the roof and the hardness of the stone.
100 tv channels in my room, all of them in Korean. The even have a Dog TV channel. At least I think it was a channel and not the room service menu,
Tuesday, October 21, 2014
Now down on the coast following a frantic drive down in the express bus. Express was the word. This driver wasn't stopping for anything, traffic jams, red lights, old woman in road, whatever it was we weaved around it and ended up at the Skocho bus terminal in record time. Red lights do seem to be optional to drivers here. A contract to pedestrians who treat red pelican crossings as sacred law. Probably because if they tried crossing they would be mown down by one of the mad drivers.
The ticket I brought proved OK. Well almost, it dropped me at the wrong bus station, but at least I didn't have to hop on and off the bus. It did mean a long walk to the hotel, round a rather large harbour. Not helped by the driving rain coming in off the sea. All part of the experience I guess.
The rain is a bit of a pain. I was hoping to go up to the national park tomorrow, but if the weather stays like this I might as well stay in the city. Forecast is reasonable though so here is hoping.
Have left Seoul and headed into the hills in the lakeside city of Chuncheon. Its very peaceful by the water even if the air is very hazy. Must be all that smog drifting over from the North which is not so very far away.
Getting here was easy as the Seoul Metro system reaches right up here, although it is the end of the line. Moving on will have to be done by bus. Went to the bus station to get my ticket. Good news was they had ticket machines. Bed news they were all Korean. A bit of Krypton Factor challenge but I think I managed it. Will see where I end up. I think I got the right city and date, but I've probably booked a seat with a discount for a one legged war veteran or something.
Lots of cyclists out on the trails today enjoying the Sunday weather. Plus the usual hundreds of teenagers with their cameras on sticks. Took me a while to work out why, but its so you can take constant selfie's wherever you go.
The hotel here is very well equiped. Two different types of aftershave and an industrial sized canister of fly spray.
Started my visit proper with a trip to two of the palaces that sit in the north of the city. They are tranquil places, or at least were at 9am, before the school parties arrived. Much of the structure has been restored after being demolished by the invading Japanese. Let's just say they weren't the most unassuming of visitors.
The compound is like a mini fobbiden City, with each member of the family having their own area. The king and queen were only allowed to sleep together when the astrologers deemed it right in order to get the best prince. I believe the practise still endures with Wills and Kate having Mystic Meg on a retainer.
The secret garden stands behind the palace. Not so secret now judging by the interest in the tours. It is full of little temples and ponds, where the king would read and meditate.
Today took a trip out to another grand structure, a rather more modern one though as it was the site of the 1988 Summer Olympics. The park is lovely, with the autumn tints brought to life in the afternoon sunshine. There was some rock concert tuning up in the stadium itself. Defining from outside, must be torture in.
Wednesday, October 15, 2014
Arrived in the early hours of the morning, landing just as the sun poped up over the mountains. The transport system is very efficient, if rather a maze, so although I was in the city by eight, it was a while before I found the hotel, with an unplanned city tour suddenly on the itinerary.
The city is massive. And full of mountains, which came as something of a surprise. Very beautiful in the sun even to my jet lagged eyes, especially now the leaves are turning.
Trapped the streets until I could get into the hotel. It's a strange mixture of the oriental with a Starbucks on every corner. Students everywhere all glued to their mobile phones.
