Happy New Year

UntitledWelcomed in the year 2074 with a visit to a couple of Kathmandu landmarks. The monkey temple stands on a steep hill just outside the main city. It's so named for the hordes of Rhesus monkeys which prowl occupy the hill, mugging unsuspecting pilgrims bringing offerings for the various deities. The hill was a mass of humanity all seeking blessings for the new year.

The other icon is the stupor at Boudhanath. It's was quite a tricky journey to get there, the overnight thunderstorms having turned the dusty streets to muddy tracks. It's a vast dome around which pilgrims process in a ritual mark of respect to the Buddha. Fascinating just watching people all processing round the dome, spinning the prayer wheel and giving thanks for their blessings.

Visited the house of the Kumari Devi, Kathmandu's living god. She is a young girl, chosen when she is three, who lives a royal life possessed by a god. When she has her first period the goddess leaves her and a new child is chosen. Lets hope she is enjoying her elevated life while she can.
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Kathmandu

UntitledAfter a quick hop over the mountains time for a few days relaxing in Kathmandu. The flight may be short, but it's pretty spectacular, with stunning views of the mountains which have been tantalising us with views through the clouds, revealed in all their glory. There was also a fabulous view of the biggest mountain of the lot, with Everest towering above the others.

It's 25 years since I have been in Nepal and much has changed. Not least due to the devastating earthquake which hit in 2015 reducing many temples to rubble. The resultant dust still covers the city, which, combined with the exhaust pollution envelopes the city in a muggy smog.

The political situation has changed as well, no more obviously in the opening of the Palace museum. When I was here before Nepal was a kingdom, with the palace occupied by King Behendra. Now the kingdom is no more and tourists wander through the former royal apartments. Fascinating to see the fading 70's chic intermixed with relics from the ancient dynasty.

In the garden is the spot where in 2001 the Crown Prince massacred most of his family before turning the gun on himself. The buildings in which occurred have been torn down but the bullet marks in the wall can still be seen.
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Tiger's Nest

UntitledMoved into the second city Paro where the annual festival is taking place. For a city it is tiny, but easy to walkabout and explore.

The festival was taking place outside one of the main temples high above the Dzong. It certainly was the place to be with people having traveled for miles to attend. The five days consist of Monks acting out events from Bhutanese history and religious texts. The marks and costumes were incredibly colourful and the dances performed with vigour. A fascinating spectacle even if it was a bit cramped sitting on the steps.

The climax of the trip to Bhutan was a climb up to the sensational Tiger's Nest monastery. It's an amazing structure, stuck to the cliffs half way up a mountain. The climb is steep but the tantalising views through the trees spur you on to the top of the trail. There is strictly no photography inside, but the splendour of the building lies in its location. It's an incredible piece of design, and to think the Monastery was built in the 17th century makes it even more impressive. One of the must see sights on the planet.
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Punakha

Spent the morning exploring the capital Thimphu, including a visit to the Sunday market, which takes place on a Saturday. The Textile museum has a demonstration of how the Bhutanese men put on their Gho, the traditional outfit the men wear. It's incredibly complicated and involved wrapping the cloth around the body and then hitching it up by creating pleats and holding everything in place with a tight belt. It is said the best part of the day for a Bhutanese man is when he can finally release the belt at the end of the day.

In the afternoon we drove over the Dochu La pass and descended into the Punakha valley. On the way passed the shrine to the mad monk, a 16th century figure who had a rather unorthodox approach to living. Some of the designs on the houses, designed to ward off evil spirits, would not pass uk planning regulations.

Spent the night In a beautiful camp site along side the Mo Chhu river, miles away from any civilisation. The owners had arranged a hot stone bath where river water was warmed by dropping in rocks which has been heated over an open air fire. The bath was full of medicinal herbs. It was wonderfully relaxing soaking under the open sky.

In the evening after the meal the Bhutanese guides produced a chocolate cake from out of nowhere. What a wonderful place to spend your birthday.
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Bhutan

UntitledAfter four weeks traveling, have left India by the back door and entered the Kingdom of Bhutan.

The border is a simple metal fence and Indians and Bhutanese come and go at will. For us foreigners though it's a different story and the paperwork needed to be completed before we were accepted into the country.

After a night on the border, we drove the 5 hour drive up to the Capital Thimphu, set high in the mountains. It's an amazing country, so different to anything else I've witnessed. The city has a country town feel, with everyone seeming to know everyone else. Visited the central Dzong, home of the government. It's also the office of the King and we were privileged to see him walking home at the end of the working day.
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Gantock

Now in the capital of the state, Gantok. Another city built up a steep hillside. The one thing you do need in Sikkim is good calf muscles. Sikkim is almost like a different country. Very clean if basic. Of course it was a different country until 1975 when India annexed it.

The monastery over the valley is the home of the Black hat Buddhist sect. Their spiritual leader is the other side of the country though as he resides in Dharamsala with the Dali Lama. A rival lives nearby and there have been raids by militant Buddhists, so the place is tightly armed. We arrived on the last day of a holy festival, so the monastery hall was full of monks chanting and blowing horns and praying. An incredible spectacle.
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Pelling

What a difference a day makes. Went to bed with ferocious thunderstorms raging overhead and torrential rain pounding on the tin roof. And woke to clear sky's with the worlds third tallest mountain bathed in sunlight visible in all its glory from the comfort of my warm bed.

Another long drive took us to Khecheopalri, a lake holy to both Buddhists and Hindus. Climbed up to the view point to see the lake in all its glory. It was a long climb up but hopefully improved our Khama.

The afternoon the guide decided we would visit the Rhododendron Festival taking place this week in a tiny village high up in the hills. Getting there involved a 8 km ride up a dirt ridden track, all ten of us crammed into. 4 wheel drive jeep. Quite an experience. They were pleased to see us when we did arrive and gave us VIP seats in the First Minister of Sikkim's hut.

Sikkim

The journey into Sikkim is a long one on winding, twisting narrow roads edged by sheer drops. Not easy in good weather, but in fog it made and interesting journey from Darjeeling. By the crow flies we have traveled just 18 miles from the hill station. By road it was over 80 miles and took seven hours.

Once we got below cloud level there were some wonderful views. Sikkim was an independent kingdom until 1975 when it was annexed by India, and you still need a special permit to enter. It's a fascinating place, soaring hills tower over deep valleys, with narrow roads twisting and turning as they zig zag their way up the sides of the valleys, passing some stomach churning sheer drops to the river far far below.

Pelling is up in the clouds and so we arrived at the hotel in thick fog with thunder crashing in the hidden mountains.
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