Harbour Views

Spending the last few hours in Australia enjoying the signts and sounds of the city.

Walked down to Bondi Beach, where he surfies were all out in force. There are some beautiful cliff walks down here, but for some bizarre reason the coast is dotted with various works of modern art, part of Sculpture by he Sea. I'm glad I found out as it was inwardly tutting about people dumping their rubbish on the beach.

Actually some is quite nice but some is very bizarre indeed.

Today went up to Paramatta on the ferry. It was the first inland colony and holds Australia's oldest house, Elisabeth Farm dated 1793. 

Cant believe it's only one more day before my flight tomorrow evening. Where does the time go.

Sydney

Spending the last few days of my short holiday in Sydney, a city you really do have to love. Even in its rather smoggy state, thanks to the fires in the Blue Mountains, it is still a glorious place, full of energy and character.

Staying at Bondi Junction this time, a little way out from the centre but with a gorgeous view. Yesterday visited the Maritime Museum at Darling Harbour, which has some amazing vessels. One is a replica of James Cook's ship HM Bark Endeavour, the vessel he was traveling in when he landed in Australia and claimed it for George III. Its a tiny vessel, difficult to comprehend 90 people traveling on it for three years during that expedition.

Today took the ferry over to Manly and walked the Coastal way to Spit. Some great views and it gives you a real sense of the size of the harbour.

Canberra

Took in the sites of the Capital region starting with a visit to the Parliament, built into a hill overlooking the city.

You can just go in and wander around, although security is tight. There are some interesting old objects in such a new building, ranging from a 1297 copy of the Magna Carta, to the desk Queen Victoria used to sign the Commonwealth of Australia into existence.

The Old Parliament Building, half way down the hill, now holds the Museum of Australian Democracy which is fascinating.

Today dropped back to the coast and stopped off at Botany Bay, where James Cook first landed in 1770. He was met by two natives how basically told him to go away. He didn't take much notice.

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Snowy Mountins

Continued following the state line up the course of the river. Back into Victoria to pass the Hume Dam, now charged with regulating the level of the river annually. Funny being in a state full of Victorians. And not one in a frock coat or dressed in crinoline.

The terrain is very different here as I head up into the Australian Alps. Some impressive hydro electric plants on the way up. The water is piped through the mountains where it is used for electricity before being used to fill the reservoirs and irrigate large chunks of three states.

Eventually left the river and crossed the pass back into New South Wales. Some beautiful scenery with snow, appropriately enough, capping the Snowy Mountains. Finished the journey in the national capital Canberra.

Echuca

Back to the course of the mighty River Murray. (It's compulsory to use the word mighty when mentioning the Murray).

Stopped off in Echuca, once the home to the rivers biggest fleet of paddle steamers. There are still quite few, now chugging up the river with cargos of tourists rather than bales of wool or logs.

The ships are original, and still powered by steam, so quite impressive that they are still working after a hundred years or so.

The city is also home to fleets of houseboats hired out for trips up and down the river. It was quite entertaining to sit on the river bank, watching the bucks parties loading up the tinnies, and launching themselves into the water.

Now in Aubury, just over the border in New South Wales.

Bendigo

Took a detour from the Murray to travel down to the goldfields and the city of Bendigo.

Stopped at Wycheproof where I climbed the local mountain. Not a big deal as it is a grand total of 49m high/ It does however stand out from the surrounding plains and provides a wonderful view of miles and miles of cornfields.

Went down a gold mine today, no free samples unlike the coal mines in the UK. Cheapskates. Very interesting and gives a flavour of life during the goldrush. The population went from 800 to 20,000 in 1851 with more gold found here in the 19th Century than anywhere else in the world.

Keeping an eye on the bush fires around Sydney as I am heading that way. All ok here in Victoria but the situation in the Blue Mountains is pretty serious.

River Country

Continued my voyage inland along the course of the River Murray, Australia's longest river. At 2,375 km it traverses a large part of the east of the continent and drains an awful lot of land.

The early settlers used the rivers to explore the interior and set up communities all along the river. Part of the joy of exploring new countries is to come across vibrant and thriving communities, living lives in places you never knew existed,

Such is the Riverland, a string of towns along a section of the Murray, each with their own character and purpose.

Now in a new state, Victoria, and the town at the top, Mildura. Some lovely old buildings. Popped across the border into Wentworth, located at the confluence of the Murray and Darling Rivers. They welcome people with a tractor on a pole. They like tractors up here.

South Australia

Had a relaxing couple of days in Adelaide. Visited the botanic gardens and took in a couple of museums. The museum of immigration was particularly interesting as it detailed some of the stories of some of Australia's immigrants as well as the effect their arrival had on some already here.

Took a trip down to Geelong on the tram, for a refreshing walk by the sea. Didn't get as far a Brighton, but hit the outskirts of Hove.  Refreshing trip apart from the flies. I had forgotten how tenacious they are in Australia. Not like the polite flies in England, these ones are straight in your face, no holes bared.

Now heading inland along the route of the mighty River Murray. Some amazing landscape on the way ranging from some beautiful views in the Adelaide hills to the plains of he river basin. Much hotter inland and even more flies.

Heading East

Said goodbye to the Southern coast and headed back to Perth to catch the plane east.

Said goodby to Perth with a twilight trip on the Swan River. I think the captain had done the trip before, but it was a bit worrying when he got the crew to sit on the roof of the boat to see if we were going to fit under the bridge.

For a test I put Sidney into my sat nav and got told it would be 4110 km and would take me 45 hours to drive. I guess flying part of the way was a good idea.

Now in Adelaide, just 1450 km from my flight home and a 15 hour drive to come. Just as well I have 10 days to do it in.

Short day today as I've lost another 2.5 hours by flying east. South Australia is now on daylight saving, and its nice to see the evenings giving out.

Albany

Arrived in Albany after a long drive along the coast. Stopped in Denmark for the night but no sign of the little mermaid. Albany has that end of he world feeling you get in these out of the way places. It reminded me of Ushuaia at the bottom of Argentina. Both city's are the last stop before Antarctica.

Visited an old whaling station on the edge if the bay. It was operational until 1978, slicing up whales caught in the southern ocean. It is now a museum dedicated to saving the species it came close to wiping out, but you need a strong stomach to look at some of the pictures.

Drove up to Natural Bridge, a granite outcrop at the edge if the sea. The wind was ferocious and the waves impressive. Not a sea you would want to be caught out in.

Today drove up to the Porongrup National Park for a stunning walk along the ridge with views for miles either side.

Southern Forests

Exploring the coasts and forests of the southwestern corner of Australia. Yesterday did both capes in the Margaret rive area. Started with Cape Naturalistie which has some great walking trails and a little squat lighthouse you can climb up. Progress on the path was impeded for a moment by a snake lying across the path, but I rustled some branches and it slinked away.

Finished with Cape Leeuwin at the south western corner of the country, which features a very tall lighthouse and a waterwheel turned to stone.

Today turned my attention to the Southern Forests. Climbed to the top of the Gloucester tree. Easier said than done as the way to the top was by a series if metal pegs sticking out of the tree. Felt highly dangerous, but the view from the top was stupendous.

Western Australia

Traveling in the South West corner of Australia some 150 miles south of Perth. The region has some spectacular scenery and some wonderful drives.

Visited Wellington Park which has a large reservoir, currently overflowing thanks to the wet September in the state. Quite amazing to see the water pouring over the top.

Visited the Dolphin centre in Bunbury, but didn't see any dolphins. Apparently the sea was a but rough for them to come into the shore. THe centre was full of irritating little creatures, it's school holidays, as well as lots of aquatic dwellers such as Octopus and Sea Horses.

Now in Bussellton, home of the longest wooden pier in the Southern Hemisphere. At 1.8 Km it's quite a walk out there.

Perth

Turned south across the Indian Ocean and am now back in the Commonwealth of Australia. Speedy entry to the country, and despite not landing utill 11.20pm, was in the hotel by half twelve.

Spent Saturday wandering the streets and enjoying some of the little luxuries that were denied me in Singapore, such as chewing gum and crossing the street on the red light. Visited the Perth bell tower and got instructed in how to ring a bell. The bells come from St Martins in the Fields and still sound pretty good.

Today went down to Fremantle and had a look at the old jail. It was in use until 1992 but is now a museum. Thousands passed through its doors since it was built by convicts in the 1850s. Most Australians have a convict somewhere in the family tree., not like us English.

Flower Gardens

Last day in Singapore, so took a walk down o th new flower gardens. The are built on reclaimed land near the marina and are spectacular.

I'm not sure what the structures are, but you can climb up some of them for wonderful views over the whole area.

Finished my trip with a gentle walk along he river back to the hotel, then catching the train to the airport.

Ford Factory

Took the train up to the old ford motor factory in Bukit Batok. Nothing special, you may think about an old defunct car factory, but this has an important historical legacy for Singapore as it was here that the British signed the unconditional surrender to the troops of Japan, in 1942.

What followed was four years of misery for the inhabitants, especially the Chinese who were massacred in bulk. Anyone with any anti Japanese leaning was disposed with, often in the most brutal manner.

The factory is now a museum and is filled with sobering displays, including the table where the surrender was signed.

Finished the day with a trip to the top of the sky park, the building that looks like a ship, for a wonderful view of the city as night fell..

Southern Ridges

Got out into the country today. Well thats a bit of an exaggeration as Singapore is so built up it doesn't have any real countryside, but it does have some wonderful parks and open spaces.

Walked the Southern Ridges from Kent Ridge to Mount Fabor. There are some wonderful views over the harbour, which is jam packed with ships loaded with containers. The walk takes you across the Henderson Waves, a footbridge suspended 36m above the road. Not for those who are afraid of heights.

Neither is the cable car which propels you from the top of Mount Fabor, across the harbour, to the island of Sentosa. The island is a kind of Blackpool in the sun, a pleasure resort, where the main objective is to get you to spend money on tacky rides. Nice to wander around though and you can stroll right down to the sea.

Singapore

Have left the chaotic, random, dusty, disorganised city of Colombo and arrived in the organised, spotless, efficient clean city of Singapore. Quite a contrast.

Apart from a few plane changes at Changi, I've only visited Singapore once before, on a day trip from Malaysia. It was 12 years ago and so much in the city has changed.

They have moved the Merlion for a start, the proud symbol of the city that once stood at the river mouth. The who waterfront has been redeveloped with some amazing buildings to be seen and the Merlion now spouts into the Marina.

Spent the day exploring the old town. Stopped at Raffles, but only for a pic, and climbed the forbidden hill. The Kings of Singapoura had their palace up here, now its a lovely place to stroll.

Back at the beach

My time in Sri Lanka is coming to an end with just 24 hours left in the country. I said goodby to the group I had been traveling around with for the last two weeks and now am back on my own.

I'm in Negombo, which is a fishing village about 40 km north of Colombo. It's very quaint and I had a wander around the centre today, but so hot it's difficult to get the energy to do much except sit by the hotel pool.

The trip up he coast was interesting, stopping at a couple of Tsunami memorials on the way. One was where the train was hit, washing the carriages and all their occupants, off the tracks and into the wilderness beyond. Over 2000 died at that place alone, with whole families wiped out.

Also stopped at a turtle farm where hundreds of baby turtles are reared and released back into the ocean each night. They have three days in a tank, which gives them a head start on the rest. Not many survive, but at let some have a better chance..

Unawatuna

Back on the coast now and staying at Unawatuna beach. Very peaceful apart from the main road thundering past the front door. Lots of busses being driven like they are in a formula one race. Plus the bread van that trundles up and down the beach side playing 'Santa Claus is coming to town'.

Beach is lovely though. My second trip to the sea within a month. First Normans Bay, then Unawatuna. What next?

Walked into town yesterday. Got a bit lost in the hills but some local kids showed me the way. Met a gigantic lizard on the way. Like something out of Jurassic Park.

Bandarawela


Traveled to Bandarawela and stayed at an old colonial hotel above the city. It was built in the 1870 and they stopped updating around 1930. Certainly feels antiquated, complete with eiderdowns and bathtubs.

The road through the mountains passes through massive plantations of tea alongside more mundane crops such as carrots and lettuce. No wonder they call it Little England. The locals are all wrapped up in their winter jackets. Well it's only 17 degrees up here.

Now down on the southern coast. Although I am still north of the equator, there is nothing between me and Antarctica. On the way down visited an Elephant orphanage. Saw the baby elephants get their fix of milk from a funnel and a bucket. Sri Lanka has 6000 wild elephants, on of the highest concentrations on the planet.

Worlds End

Up early for a trip down to the Horton Planes. The walk leads you in a 6 mile circle peaking at he World's End, a shear drop of 880meters into the valley below. We were so lucky with the weather as cloud often obscures the view, but today it was staggering looking down on the lakes and tea plantations below. Not quite clear enough to see the coast, but not far off.

Back in Nuwaea Eliya for a visit to the Grand Hotel, where, along with free wifi access, you can get unlimited tea and cakes for £2.50. Bargin.

Tea Plantation

Today traveled south from Kandy, into the Hill country, staying at the old colonial hideaway of Nuwaea Eliya. It's where the British used to come to escape the heat, and for the first time since I got here I can say there is a definite nip in the air.

Stopped at a tea factory on the way up, which was fascinating to see he complicated, noisy and strenuous process the leaves have to go through in order to provide your morning cuppa. Some of the equipment must have come over with Mountbatten.

Lots more firecrackers this evening as we had a bit of angst outside the hotel over the election results. Lots of drunk party activists lined up against loads of riot police. All very exciting. Dispersed as soon as darkness fell.

Elephant Ride

Early morning ride on an Elephant, as you do. Beats the tube any day. Plodded around a lake and saw lots of birds and the odd lizard. You can buy works of art made of elephant dung. I didn't.

Back in Kandy now., via a spice garden on the way. Gorgeous weather for a visit to the Botanic Gardens. Some amazing plants including an orchid house full to bursting. Plenty of monkeys wandering around.

It's a public holiday here today for the state elections. Lots of police around and plenty of firecrackers going off in the town. Either that or there has been a coup.

Sigiriya Rock

Took a hike up Sigiriya rock, and it was quite a hike.

The rock was once a fortress towering over the surrounding countryside. Getting up involves some rather precarious climbing up som rather rickety old staircases, where the supports have seen better days. It is an amazing view once you are up, we'll worth the climb.

Lots of monkeys around as well as a rather unusual giant Squirrel, which I am convinced was actually a glove puppet.

Because it's a full moon day they won't serve any beer in the hotel, unless thy disguise it by serving it from a tea pot! Coke is fine. 

Kaudulla

Another day of temples and Buddhas, standing, siting and lying down. The only pose he didn't do was standing on his head. The temples are all very busy gearing up to Friday, which is a full moon day and as such a bank holiday in Sri Lanka.

This afternoon took a jeep safari into Kaudulla Nation Park and saw loads of wild elephants moseying about. Such magnificent beasts and so much more at home here than the zoo or he safari park. Also so some Crocodile and many types of birds.

Now in Giritale in a hotel high on the hill overlooking the lake.

Anuradhapura

Up in the area of the ancient cities now and specifically staying at Anuradhapura, which was the capital of the country for over 1000 years.

It was near here that Buddhism arrived in Sri Lanka, carried across the India ocean by monks levitating. Well no aeroplanes you see, so levitation was the only way to travel. They landed on a rock in Mihintale and you can still scramble to the top for a birds eye view of the ancient ruins spread out below.

Before passing on the secrets of Buddhism, to the king, the monks gave him a IQ test. Luckily he passed, or they might just have hovered back to India. Intelligence is no longer a requirement for e royal family.

In the city itself is the Ruvanvalisaya Dagoba, a massive pure white stupor that towers over the site. It's full of pilgrims, chanting monks and aggressive monkeys. Don't carry an food is the advice. I remember being mugged by a monkey in Thailand, so didn't take any chances.

You can also visit the Sacred Bo-Tree, a seedling for the original tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment. This spin off is over 2000 years old and still looking good. As someone who can't keep a Begonia more than a couple of months, I was seriously impressed.

Staying at a dear little hotel right on the lake. It's very hot here but the hotel has a wonderful pool.

Bentota

Traveling back up the coast. Train travel is incredibly cheap here. To get to Bentota is costing me 100 rupees, about 50p, bargain even if it was another footplate journey.

Some lovely places up here. Did a boat tour of the lagoon yesterday and ended up with a crocodile on my head. The crocodiles in this country are of a a much friendlier size than some others I could name, take note Australia. Not sure about their use as a sun hat though.

Walked out to the Brief Garden today. It's a luscious place surrounded rubber plantations. The house is pretty impressive as well. It was the former home of Bevis Bawa, a famous Sri Lankan artist. The house lies five miles inland, but the walk was worth it, and it gave the locals something to talk about. Some very bizarre statues in the garden.

My hotel is right by the beach. Well almost. You have cross the railway tracks first, always an adventure. The beach is lovely though even if the sea is a bit rough at present. Beautiful sunset tonight.

Peace Pagoda

The weather in this place is bizarre. One minute bright sunshine, and the next huge storms. Very confusing. The storms when they come, are sudden and ferocious. With barley enough time to get your brolly out before the drenching rains come.

So far I have been reasonably lucky. Hiked the 5 miles round the bay to the Japanese peace pagoda situated on the promitary, the other side of Galle bay. A fascinating walk as I came across the fishermen landing their catch on the beach. A rather strenuous activity that looked highly dangerous. It was certainly all hands to he pump.

The view from the pagoda is amazing as you can see the whole bay laid out before you. You can see the storms approaching, which is useful. Walked down to jungle beach which was full or Russians eating chips on sunbeds.

Galle

Spending a few days at the beach before picking up a tour at the end of he week to see some of the historic cities, so have ventured down the coast to get a bit of sea air.

It was a long train journey down from Kandy, especially the last few hours where he train was rather crowded. I wasn't completely on the footplate, but not far off. It was a great view watching the coast fly by from the edge of the open train door. "Don't fall out" was the advice from the locals, "many people have died".

Now in Galle, a lovely city on the bottom corner of the country. Staying in the old Dutch fort area, with racing sea breezes and stunning sunsets. The place was devastated in the 2004 Tsunami, with thousands killed in the bus station by the fort. The old area was reasonably ok, secured by the ancient stones of he old fortress.

Kandy

Took the train up into the hills and the old city of Kandy. Station a bit chaotic and I managed to get on e wrong train, but it went to almost the right place so that's a relief.

Visited the shrine of the Buddha's tooth, which is good news as it means I've jumped a few stages on the path to Nivana. You don't get to see the actual left canine tooth as it is encased in a series of containers, each slightly smaller than the last. So no chance to see if he flossed. It was snatched from the Buddha's funeral pyre some 2500 years ago and kingdoms have been won and lost in fighting for its possession.

Took a walk up into the hills to visit an old tea Plantation now a fact filled museum packed with various ancient paraphernalia, all important links in the chain to produce a decent cup of tea. I needed a cup after he long all up. 6km is not far, but when it's all uphill, in this heat, it gets a bit wearing.

Back in Kandy saw the old British Garrison Cemetery. Life expectancy here seemed very short, you were lucky to get to 30.

Wet city

Spend a couple of days splashing around the capital Colombo. And I do mean splashing. When it rains here it is certainly rains, paths turn into streams and roads to rivers. you certainly get your feet wet.

It takes a while to get used to heat. Quite energy sapping, but at least the hotel pool is there and refreshing. They certainly take security seriously In the hotel. The army on the main gate, the navy patrolling the lake at the back and sniffer dogs going through the potted plants. Maybe something to do with the president attending a function here tonight.

Took in a couple of museums, one full of old stone Buddhas, and one highlighting the Dutch history of the country. Rather old and musty but interesting. Also visited a Buddhist temple with a rather unusual museum full of paraphernalia from the last couple of centuries including a selection of ancient computers, film projectors, hundred of watches and a Chubb safe full of old trinkets. They also have a stuffed Elephant. Must send an update to the Lonely Planet as it's still alive according to them,

Colombo

Arrived in the swelteringly hot metropolis that is Colombo, capital of Sri Lanka. Very easy entry to the country with formalities completed in record quick time.

Thrilling ride into the city by Taxi, dodging in and our of lanes and playing chicken with lorries heading in the opposite direction. Quite a relief to reach the hotel, or it was until I realised he had dropped me at the wrong hotel. To be fair it had a similar name, but not what you really want when you've just got off a long flight.

The actual hotel stands on the shore of Lake Beira, and has a lovely swimming pool overlooking the lake.

Needed it after a walk up to the fort where the waves crash in from the Indian Ocean, watched by countless Sri Lankan couples canoodling under umbrellas.

New York

Finished my travels in New York which is like entering a different country.

The city is mad and chaotic, but lovable all the same. It has an energy that you don't find anywhere else. I think it's because Manhattan is a island, there is nowhere for the energy to escape to so it all pushes up.

Walked down to Brooklyn, crossing the famous bridge for a wonderful view of the end of the island. The topped off the new World Trade Center building today, it is now officially the highest building in the country at 1778 feet.

Summer is finally coming and it was a beautiful day in Central Park today. Many people of many bizarre shapes and sizes, out enjoying the sunshine. I walked my feet off.

Longwood Gradens

Took the long drive up from Annapolis back to New York City. Cut across the Bay Bridge to avoid the morning rush hour in Baltimore and thus entered another state, Delaware.

Delaware always makes me feel at home, with the counties of Kent and Sussex and the town of Lewes and capital of Dover. It was the first state to ratify the constitution, something they are so proud of they put it on all the car number plates.

Visited Longwood Gardens where they are some magnificent displays and some rather over the top fountains. Americans don't do things by halves.

Maryland

Entered the state of Maryland via its western end, following the old National Road. Maryland is a strange shape out there, sandwiched between the river and the mountain it's only just under 2km across at it's narrowest point.

Stopped off at Harpers Ferry on the way. I last visited in 1995, on my first trip to the states, and nothing has changed very much. It is still an amazing view from the top of the Maryland Heights where you can look down on the rivers marking the boundaries between the three states Maryland, Virginia and West Virginia.

Now in Annapolis, the capital of Maryland and once, for a few short months, the capital of the whole Union. On the docks is a tribute to Alex Haley marking the spot where his Great Great Great Great Grandfather, Kunta Kinte, was brought into the country in chains.

Falling Water

Visited it a couple of Frank Lloyd Wright homes in the hills south west of Pittsburgh. Both unique in their own ways one is built into waterfall and one into the top of the hill, All as they call it around here and Knob. Amazing places to live in but I'm not sure how practical they would be.

Also visited Fort necessity scene of George Washington's first battle. He was working for the British then, against the French, and he lost, Setting back the push into the wilderness by a few years. Back on the old National Road now and some very mountainous scenery
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Pittsburg

At the confluence of the Monongahela and Allegheny rivers, where they merge to form the Ohio, the British built a fort and named it after the prime minister of the time, William Pitt.

Things have changed a bit since then, and the City of Pittsburg stands high and proud over he point where the three rivers meet, and the location George Washington picked to defend the British Empire.

One room of the fort still stands, opposite he heights of Mount Washington, where you can clime for a fantastic vista of the whole city.
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Dayton, Ohio

Took a trip up to Dayton, Where they claim to invented almost everything from crash registers to car ignition systems. But the biggest plaudits in the town go to brothers Wilbur and Orville Wight, who in the farms around Dayton developed powered flight.

It may have been at Kitty Hawk in North Carolina that they achieved the first flight in 1903, but in was around Dayton, over the next four years, that they developed their machine and produced a controllable steerable flying machine. No mean achievement for a couple of bicycle mechanics.

The field where they finessed their invention is now home to the American Airforce, but a memorial stands on the hill from where you can watch giant troop carriers descend from the skies. They had no idea what they had started.
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Cincinnati

Drove down to Cincinnati, which lies on the Ohio River.

The river marks the boundary between the states of Kentucky and Ohio, and therefore was the marker between the South and the North in the days of the civil war. South of the River were Slave States, while north of the River was freedom.

Cincinnati's place on this crossroads of culture ensured it had a prominent role in the Underground Railway, the name given to the chain of people who aided runaway slaves to escape to the north and freedom Today the riverbank is host to the Museum of Freedom which pays tribute to all the incredibly brave individuals who risked their life and liberty to bring freedom to others. It's an amazing place well worth a visit.

Slaves escaping had to swim the River or cross by rowboat. Today it is easier by crossing the Purple People Bridge which is one of many bridges that links the two states
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Indianapolis

New day, New state, arrived in the rainy capital Of Indiana, Indianapolis. Took a tour out onto the Indy 500 track, a tour Which was rudely interrupted when we were all rushed back inside the Museum After a man with a gun was seen climbing the fence. Very exciting.

The centre of the city's very well laid out with an amazing War Memorial in the shape of the Mausoleum at_Halicarnass, one of the aincent wonders of the world rebuilt in midwest America.
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Saint Louis

Across the mighty Mississippi to enter the State of Missouri and the city of St Louis. The skyscape is dominated by the magnificent monument to western expansion, a mighty arch which stands towering some 190 meters above the park below

It certainly is an impressive sight. To get to the top you need to pack yourself into a tiny little tramcar with four other strangers and
find yourself hauled up the inside of the column. The Trams are just big enough for five ordinary people. if you're sharing with the family on holiday from Alabama, it's a tight squeeze.

Just over the road is the old courthouse of St Louis Where Dred Scott a slave petitioned for his freedom. The ramifications of that case helped lead to the Civil War, And as you stand in the spot that he stood while pleading for liberty, you can feel history passing by.

Springfield, Illinois

Spent the day exploring the sights of Springfield, State Capital of Illinois and power base of Abraham Lincoln.

His former house is now a national park and exists much as it did when Lincoln lived there for around 20 years, while practicing law in the courts in the state house just up the road. The rooms are much as they were when Abe and Mary lived here and you can imagine them entertaining visitors and bringing up their young family.

His presidential Library and museum is also in the city, containing a mix of historical relics, such as his stovepipe hat complete with fingerprints where he doffed it to ladies, and a strange disney type reconstruction of his life, where waxworks show young Abe reading by the fire in his one room shack in Kentucky. There are some very good presentations which tell of the vents of his life.

He certainly made an impression and is best known for his emancipation proclamation, which freed the slaves, something which cost him his life just after his second term of office began. His body was brought back to springfield by train, where it now rests in a stately tomb at the centre of the cemetery.

Illinois River

Took a trip down through the State following the course of the Illinois River. Not such a good idea as I discovered when I arrived at Starved Rock State Park, to experience the wonderful canyons and waterfalls, to find the Visitor Center under water and the gates to the park firmly shut.

In fact the whole River valley is suffering from one of the wettest springs on record, leaving many homes inundated and several roads underwater.

Very interesting to see but not an experience you would want to live through.

Headed onto the stare capital Springfield. Passed through Petersburg, where Abraham Lincoln lived for a while when he was a surveyor for the new settlement. Strange to think that when he was here this was frontier country, right on the edge of the United States.

River trip

Two more packed days exploring the sights of Chicago. Took a boat trip along the Chicago River to look at some of the amazing buildings along the waterfront. Most are redevelopments of factories and warehouses which used to throb with life but are now put to a more peaceful role.

They reversed the river by building a canal to link it with the Illinois river and therefore the Mississippi. The plan was needed to
stop the polluted river contaminating the drinking water in Lake Michigan. It worked sending the pollution down to St Louis instead!

Took in some museums including the Field Museum home to some enormous
dinosaurs and finished the day watching the sunset from the top of the John Hancock building, some 100floors above street level.

Chicago

Arrived in the windy city which certainly lives up to its name. Although the sun was shining when I arrived in the city the icy wind which howled down the streets of the city straight off Lake Michigan was enough to chill the bones.

The city is an architectural masterpiece perched on the edge of that gigantic lake. I was surprised how young the city was, only being founded some 200 years ago. And most of it was rebuilt in the late 19th century, after an incident with an oil lamp and Mrs. O'Leary's Cow saw the city burnt to the ground.

For a birds eye view I took the trip up to the top of the Willis building, formerly known as the SearsTower it's the tallest building in the western hemisphere, And the views are amazing. It towers over the Chicago River, a river which had its flow reversed by early engineers. Just how do you reverse a river?

Verona

Took the train up to fair Verona, some 100km inland from Venice.
It's a charming little city, sent in the loop of the River Fiume Adige, and was well known throughout Europe in Shakespeare's day, which is why, I guess, he set his tale of star crossed lovers in the city.

There were actually two warring families, but not necessarily a real Romeo and Juliet. The house of Juliet is there through, complete with balcony, which you can stand on. I drew the line at shinning up the Ivy to get there and relied on the stairs.

The clock tower gives a magnificent panorama of the whole valley. It was a bit foggy so the view was limited, but still stunning.
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Venice

Who in their right mind would build a city in the ocean? Well the answer is the people of Venice who, over the past 1500 yeas have conquered the elements to construct a city that not only literally stands on the water, but is one of the most scenic on earth.

Nothing quite prepares you for the isolation of the city, now joined to land via a long railway bridge. It's not just off the shore, it's plumb in the middle of the bay, surrounded everywhere by bright blue water, teaming with boats of all sizes and shapes.

The city is bisected by the S bend of the Grand Canal with each half split into several sections by hundreds of small canals. Everywhere you go is water the only way to cross is by the small bridges. It is very up and down walking in Venice.

Part of the joy is the total lack of traffic, especially after the chaos of Naples and Rome. You can walk for miles and around every corner is another Plaza or Church.

Not sure what they are going to do about Global Warming though.
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Seven Hills


Now leaving Rome after traipsing up, what felt like, most of the seven Hills of the City.

Visited the Capitoline Hill with its many museums and the plaza laid out by Micalangelo. The whole spot is now dominated by the monument to Victor Emmanuel II, one of only four kings of a unified Italy. It is a colossal building and they say the best view in Rome is from the top, mainly because you can't see the monument.

Also visited the Palatine Hill where the Emperors has their great palaces. Mostly ruins now you can see the house were Augustus lived. The complex is linked by many tunnels, designed so the Emperors could move about in safety. That didn't help Caligula though, who was stabbed to death in one of them.

Finally left the city to climb Vatican Hill for a wonderful view from the top of St Peters, just as the sun was setting.
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Rome

Traveled up to Roma on the train on Wednesday, just a couple of hours north of Napoli.

You can't help by gape at the sheer history that is flung in your face as you enter the city. Everywhere you look there are ancient roads, aqueducts and buildings, testament to the time when this was indeed the capital of the World and the most powerful city on earth.

There was history taking place over the bridge at the Vatican, evidenced by the number of TV trucks parked just off St Peter's square.The crowd to get into St Peter's was so long I headed instead to the Vatican Museums where some of the treasures contained within. They certainly have a lot of material goods stuffed away for a rainy day.

The Sistine Chapel was packed as usual. Some very nice paintings, a bit over the top really but when you have it, flaunt it. Give the cardinals something to look at when they are communing with the Holy Ghost next month.

Herculaneum

Still raining but I took my brolly and traveled to the other casualty of the mighty eruption of AD79, the little fishing port of Herculaneum. It wasn't rain that poured onto the town in 79, but millions of tons of boiling mud, which sealed the city in a flash, preserving buildings, furniture and even wall paintings, keeping them secret from the world until rediscovered in the 18th Century.

Before the mud hot, the people who hadn't evacuated after the first eruption were hit by a Pyroclastic flow from the Volcano, consisting of a wall of superheated gas, around 500 degrees Centigrade, providing instant cremation for the unlucky victims. The event was so quick that wood, brick and even bones were preserved having had all the moisture blown from them. The buildings are in a pretty good condition and it is easy to imagine the hustle and bustle of the inns and taverns along the main street. I would guess it looked pretty much as the centre of Naples does today. The only difference being the TV in the front room.

Around 3 million people still live on the slopes of the mountain. It must be like living in front of a loaded gun. The Volcano is not spent, it merely sleeps, and another eruption is long overdue.
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Naples

Rather wet today so stayed around the historic centre of Naples, which stands today much as it has done for thousands of years, a maze of narrow alleys and cluttered buildings.

Took a trip down to the array of caves which spread below the city, mirroring the street above. You get there by squeezing through some rather tight tunnels, just 50cm wide, not for the claustrophobic. The tunnels link a series of caves, first hewn out by Greek settlers who quarried the rock to build the house above. Quite an amazing array, partly destroyed by allied bombing in the second World War.

Above in the centre of the city stands a church on the place where the old Roman forum once stood, and some houses still incorporate parts of the building which once housed the Roman theatre, where once the Emperor Nero entertained plebeians.
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