Back at the beach

My time in Sri Lanka is coming to an end with just 24 hours left in the country. I said goodby to the group I had been traveling around with for the last two weeks and now am back on my own.

I'm in Negombo, which is a fishing village about 40 km north of Colombo. It's very quaint and I had a wander around the centre today, but so hot it's difficult to get the energy to do much except sit by the hotel pool.

The trip up he coast was interesting, stopping at a couple of Tsunami memorials on the way. One was where the train was hit, washing the carriages and all their occupants, off the tracks and into the wilderness beyond. Over 2000 died at that place alone, with whole families wiped out.

Also stopped at a turtle farm where hundreds of baby turtles are reared and released back into the ocean each night. They have three days in a tank, which gives them a head start on the rest. Not many survive, but at let some have a better chance..

Unawatuna

Back on the coast now and staying at Unawatuna beach. Very peaceful apart from the main road thundering past the front door. Lots of busses being driven like they are in a formula one race. Plus the bread van that trundles up and down the beach side playing 'Santa Claus is coming to town'.

Beach is lovely though. My second trip to the sea within a month. First Normans Bay, then Unawatuna. What next?

Walked into town yesterday. Got a bit lost in the hills but some local kids showed me the way. Met a gigantic lizard on the way. Like something out of Jurassic Park.

Bandarawela


Traveled to Bandarawela and stayed at an old colonial hotel above the city. It was built in the 1870 and they stopped updating around 1930. Certainly feels antiquated, complete with eiderdowns and bathtubs.

The road through the mountains passes through massive plantations of tea alongside more mundane crops such as carrots and lettuce. No wonder they call it Little England. The locals are all wrapped up in their winter jackets. Well it's only 17 degrees up here.

Now down on the southern coast. Although I am still north of the equator, there is nothing between me and Antarctica. On the way down visited an Elephant orphanage. Saw the baby elephants get their fix of milk from a funnel and a bucket. Sri Lanka has 6000 wild elephants, on of the highest concentrations on the planet.

Worlds End

Up early for a trip down to the Horton Planes. The walk leads you in a 6 mile circle peaking at he World's End, a shear drop of 880meters into the valley below. We were so lucky with the weather as cloud often obscures the view, but today it was staggering looking down on the lakes and tea plantations below. Not quite clear enough to see the coast, but not far off.

Back in Nuwaea Eliya for a visit to the Grand Hotel, where, along with free wifi access, you can get unlimited tea and cakes for £2.50. Bargin.

Tea Plantation

Today traveled south from Kandy, into the Hill country, staying at the old colonial hideaway of Nuwaea Eliya. It's where the British used to come to escape the heat, and for the first time since I got here I can say there is a definite nip in the air.

Stopped at a tea factory on the way up, which was fascinating to see he complicated, noisy and strenuous process the leaves have to go through in order to provide your morning cuppa. Some of the equipment must have come over with Mountbatten.

Lots more firecrackers this evening as we had a bit of angst outside the hotel over the election results. Lots of drunk party activists lined up against loads of riot police. All very exciting. Dispersed as soon as darkness fell.

Elephant Ride

Early morning ride on an Elephant, as you do. Beats the tube any day. Plodded around a lake and saw lots of birds and the odd lizard. You can buy works of art made of elephant dung. I didn't.

Back in Kandy now., via a spice garden on the way. Gorgeous weather for a visit to the Botanic Gardens. Some amazing plants including an orchid house full to bursting. Plenty of monkeys wandering around.

It's a public holiday here today for the state elections. Lots of police around and plenty of firecrackers going off in the town. Either that or there has been a coup.

Sigiriya Rock

Took a hike up Sigiriya rock, and it was quite a hike.

The rock was once a fortress towering over the surrounding countryside. Getting up involves some rather precarious climbing up som rather rickety old staircases, where the supports have seen better days. It is an amazing view once you are up, we'll worth the climb.

Lots of monkeys around as well as a rather unusual giant Squirrel, which I am convinced was actually a glove puppet.

Because it's a full moon day they won't serve any beer in the hotel, unless thy disguise it by serving it from a tea pot! Coke is fine. 

Kaudulla

Another day of temples and Buddhas, standing, siting and lying down. The only pose he didn't do was standing on his head. The temples are all very busy gearing up to Friday, which is a full moon day and as such a bank holiday in Sri Lanka.

This afternoon took a jeep safari into Kaudulla Nation Park and saw loads of wild elephants moseying about. Such magnificent beasts and so much more at home here than the zoo or he safari park. Also so some Crocodile and many types of birds.

Now in Giritale in a hotel high on the hill overlooking the lake.

Anuradhapura

Up in the area of the ancient cities now and specifically staying at Anuradhapura, which was the capital of the country for over 1000 years.

It was near here that Buddhism arrived in Sri Lanka, carried across the India ocean by monks levitating. Well no aeroplanes you see, so levitation was the only way to travel. They landed on a rock in Mihintale and you can still scramble to the top for a birds eye view of the ancient ruins spread out below.

Before passing on the secrets of Buddhism, to the king, the monks gave him a IQ test. Luckily he passed, or they might just have hovered back to India. Intelligence is no longer a requirement for e royal family.

In the city itself is the Ruvanvalisaya Dagoba, a massive pure white stupor that towers over the site. It's full of pilgrims, chanting monks and aggressive monkeys. Don't carry an food is the advice. I remember being mugged by a monkey in Thailand, so didn't take any chances.

You can also visit the Sacred Bo-Tree, a seedling for the original tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment. This spin off is over 2000 years old and still looking good. As someone who can't keep a Begonia more than a couple of months, I was seriously impressed.

Staying at a dear little hotel right on the lake. It's very hot here but the hotel has a wonderful pool.

Bentota

Traveling back up the coast. Train travel is incredibly cheap here. To get to Bentota is costing me 100 rupees, about 50p, bargain even if it was another footplate journey.

Some lovely places up here. Did a boat tour of the lagoon yesterday and ended up with a crocodile on my head. The crocodiles in this country are of a a much friendlier size than some others I could name, take note Australia. Not sure about their use as a sun hat though.

Walked out to the Brief Garden today. It's a luscious place surrounded rubber plantations. The house is pretty impressive as well. It was the former home of Bevis Bawa, a famous Sri Lankan artist. The house lies five miles inland, but the walk was worth it, and it gave the locals something to talk about. Some very bizarre statues in the garden.

My hotel is right by the beach. Well almost. You have cross the railway tracks first, always an adventure. The beach is lovely though even if the sea is a bit rough at present. Beautiful sunset tonight.

Peace Pagoda

The weather in this place is bizarre. One minute bright sunshine, and the next huge storms. Very confusing. The storms when they come, are sudden and ferocious. With barley enough time to get your brolly out before the drenching rains come.

So far I have been reasonably lucky. Hiked the 5 miles round the bay to the Japanese peace pagoda situated on the promitary, the other side of Galle bay. A fascinating walk as I came across the fishermen landing their catch on the beach. A rather strenuous activity that looked highly dangerous. It was certainly all hands to he pump.

The view from the pagoda is amazing as you can see the whole bay laid out before you. You can see the storms approaching, which is useful. Walked down to jungle beach which was full or Russians eating chips on sunbeds.

Galle

Spending a few days at the beach before picking up a tour at the end of he week to see some of the historic cities, so have ventured down the coast to get a bit of sea air.

It was a long train journey down from Kandy, especially the last few hours where he train was rather crowded. I wasn't completely on the footplate, but not far off. It was a great view watching the coast fly by from the edge of the open train door. "Don't fall out" was the advice from the locals, "many people have died".

Now in Galle, a lovely city on the bottom corner of the country. Staying in the old Dutch fort area, with racing sea breezes and stunning sunsets. The place was devastated in the 2004 Tsunami, with thousands killed in the bus station by the fort. The old area was reasonably ok, secured by the ancient stones of he old fortress.

Kandy

Took the train up into the hills and the old city of Kandy. Station a bit chaotic and I managed to get on e wrong train, but it went to almost the right place so that's a relief.

Visited the shrine of the Buddha's tooth, which is good news as it means I've jumped a few stages on the path to Nivana. You don't get to see the actual left canine tooth as it is encased in a series of containers, each slightly smaller than the last. So no chance to see if he flossed. It was snatched from the Buddha's funeral pyre some 2500 years ago and kingdoms have been won and lost in fighting for its possession.

Took a walk up into the hills to visit an old tea Plantation now a fact filled museum packed with various ancient paraphernalia, all important links in the chain to produce a decent cup of tea. I needed a cup after he long all up. 6km is not far, but when it's all uphill, in this heat, it gets a bit wearing.

Back in Kandy saw the old British Garrison Cemetery. Life expectancy here seemed very short, you were lucky to get to 30.

Wet city

Spend a couple of days splashing around the capital Colombo. And I do mean splashing. When it rains here it is certainly rains, paths turn into streams and roads to rivers. you certainly get your feet wet.

It takes a while to get used to heat. Quite energy sapping, but at least the hotel pool is there and refreshing. They certainly take security seriously In the hotel. The army on the main gate, the navy patrolling the lake at the back and sniffer dogs going through the potted plants. Maybe something to do with the president attending a function here tonight.

Took in a couple of museums, one full of old stone Buddhas, and one highlighting the Dutch history of the country. Rather old and musty but interesting. Also visited a Buddhist temple with a rather unusual museum full of paraphernalia from the last couple of centuries including a selection of ancient computers, film projectors, hundred of watches and a Chubb safe full of old trinkets. They also have a stuffed Elephant. Must send an update to the Lonely Planet as it's still alive according to them,

Colombo

Arrived in the swelteringly hot metropolis that is Colombo, capital of Sri Lanka. Very easy entry to the country with formalities completed in record quick time.

Thrilling ride into the city by Taxi, dodging in and our of lanes and playing chicken with lorries heading in the opposite direction. Quite a relief to reach the hotel, or it was until I realised he had dropped me at the wrong hotel. To be fair it had a similar name, but not what you really want when you've just got off a long flight.

The actual hotel stands on the shore of Lake Beira, and has a lovely swimming pool overlooking the lake.

Needed it after a walk up to the fort where the waves crash in from the Indian Ocean, watched by countless Sri Lankan couples canoodling under umbrellas.