Last full day in Morocco, so headed over to the Ville Nouvelle, the part of the city built by the French. With wide tree lined boulevards and majestic fountains it is quite a contrast to the narrow winding lanes of the old Medina. Very pleasant just sitting in the park people watching. And less hassle as well. A long walk back in the dark, which was quite spooky. Had a refreshing dip in the pool in the Riad. The roof was open so I could lie in the water and see the stars above.

Headed back inland and have reached the ancient city of Fes. Baking hot and bustling with people. I thought Marrakech's souk was bad but it is nothing compared with Fes. It is like making the maze at Hampton court 100 times bigger and then dumping the pedestrian rush over Waterloo bridge each morning into the heart of it. One of the most confusing places to wander in the world, I've lost track of the times I have been completely lost. And every inch is filled with someone trying to sell you something. From a bunch of dried figs to a camels head and from a silver teapot to a wedding throne. The lane are to small to get cars up, a blessed relief, which makes it the world's largest contiguous car-free urban area. Doesn't stop the odd Donkey plodding through. Thank goodness the Riad I am staying in is near a city gate so I can sneak round the edge and escape the madness. Climbed up into the hills this afternoon for a panoramic view of the whole city.

Moved up the coast from the economic capital of the country to its political one, Rabat. It's a modern city with much going on. Spent some time down by the river watching the locals enjoy their Sunday afternoon. There was a funfair on the promenade, which looked fun if a little dicey. Today visited the ruins at Chellah, the site of the Roman settlement at Rabat. A long walk to get there, and it is roasting. Went for a walk in the souk tonight to try to find something to eat. Declined the snails and went instead for a Poulet sandwich.

Said goodbye to the walkers today and headed off on my own. First stop Casablanca. I got the train up from Marrakech, incredibly easy and just a three hour journey. Strange to see so much flatness having been used to Mountains for the last 11 days, but the coastal plain stretches for miles. Casablanca is, to be honest, a bit of a dump. The elegance of the film has faded somewhat and the centre is full of crumbling villas. Quite evocative wandering around. The city is the home of the world's third largest mosque, the Hassan II. It stands dramatically over the ocean and I have a fine view from my hotel room. Better than from the sea front which is one of the most rundown I have ever seen. The sea was filthy, although that didn't stop loads of young boys leaping off the mosque wall into the rubbish floating in it.

Spent the last night in Marrakech visiting the main city square, a fascinating place which becomes transformed as dusk comes. From a distance all you can see is a wall of people, and smoke rising from hundreds of small food stalls. The snake charmers have disappeared and have been replaced by a myriad of culinary outlets selling anything from snails to fish and chips. Its a bowl into which a seething mass of humanity has been poured and you just get swept along in the flow.

After 11 days of trekking finally returned to the hustle and bustle of the city of Marrakech. The last night was spent in a charming Gete overlooking Aremd with hot showers and meat. Something lacking over the last few days. The final part of the trek was a simple 40 minute walk into Imlil where we picked up the bus back to the city. Oh for the joy of a hotel room. But what a culture shock to be back in the madness that is Marrakech. Today we spent the morning on a city tour, meandering through the souks of tie old city. We visited a chemist shop with concoctions for everything from hair loss to piles. Wandered about in the afternoon and ended up at the Saladin Tombs. Impressive structures which prove that although you can't take it with you, you can damn well try.

Up at 5.30 again for the last of our peaks over 4000m. This one was the second highest in the atlas range at 4088m, Jebel Ouanoukrim. Probably the most difficult so far as it required some rock climbing half way up. Again fantastic views from the top overlooking the whole range and across the valley the mountain we climbed yesterday. The trip down was never ending as not only did we have to return to base camp but then drop the 1500m back to the village of Aremd in the valley below. Hassan our guide invited us to his house for tea and we met his delightful kids. It was our last walk today and although every muscle in my legs ache it has been a fantastic experience and well worth every heart felt step.

After a night spent buffeted by gale force winds tunnelling down the valley we today made the ascent up Mount Toubkal, at 4167m the highest mountain in North Africa. Started at 6.30 and it was a long three hour trudge over the scree to the top. Even after all the trekking still a pain in the calf muscles. The effort was worth it though with wonderful views from Marrakech right across the Atlas range. The top was only marred by the arrival of 102 Spanish bankers on a corporate bonding exercise which slightly spoilt the tranquillity of the peak.

Not the best night we had due to the arrival of several hundred goats just before dark. The plaintive cries took on a sinister and menacing quality at night. Still it was an early start as we had a mega climb before us up to the Assif n'Moursaine pass 1400 meters above us. We started the walk towards the immense slab of rock at 6.30. As we got nearer the vertical cliffs gained depth and a path emerged cris-crossing up into the mountains. After four hours of climbing we eventually made the top for some wonderful views across the lake behind us and beyond towards the Anti Atlas. From there it was all downhill to the mountain refuge at Toubkal base camp. A wonderful sight nestled in the mountains with hot showers waiting. Writing this overlooking the valley watching novice walkers struggling up the hill. Not seasoned veterans like us.

This morning left the Gete and the fertile valley behind and headed back up into the mountains. Just a 4 hour walk brought us to the lake sitting at the foot of an immense wall of rock over which we need to treck tomorrow. For today we camped by the lake with its emerald green waters still and silent beside us. The rocky terrain was not the ideal spot for a tent but the view was outstanding. In the evening the muleteers made their usual music with the pots and pans to send us to sleep. Just after sunset the moon rose over lake bathing the whole valley in soft eerie light.

After the trials of yesterday had a day of luxury today. Well everything is relative. Just a 100m climb out of the valley before a drop of 1350m down to the village of Amsouzart where we are spending the night in a Gete. Oh the luxury of a cold shower and a squat toilet as opposed to a frigid mountain stream and a hole in the ground. After 6 days wild camping this place feels like the Ritz. It's a relaxed little village by a stream in which there is a lot of washing being done by the locals. Had a little walk around. The muleteers seem happy to be here as well.

Today was one of the toughest days I've ever had. We woke at 5am and got up to a wonderful vista of stars twinkling over the whole valley. You forget how wonderful the night sky can be when you live in Europe, but out in the wilds, miles from civilisation it is a magnificent site. With the sun coming up we set of up the valley towards mount Jebel Adrar n'Dern, 1400 meters above us at a height of 4001m. It was a long trek up a very steep mountainside and at times I thought I wouldn't make it. But slowly and surely we all made the summit in 5 hours. It was a tremendous view from the top and we had our picnic lunch surveying the Atlas Mountains laid out before us. After lunch it was a slow trek down into the next camp where I have never been so glad to see a purple tent before.

What they describe as an easy day today, just a half day walk although it did involve a climb of 750m. It was a hard slog out of the valley but some wonderful views from the top. A few more valleys to cross and we were in camp by 1230 for a lunch of salad and lentils. Very good. After lunch the peace was disturbed by the bleating of a goat outside. It had been purchased from one of the villagers for our dinner. I declined the invitation to see it killed but according to one of the group who went to watch it was all very quick. The villages out here are amazing. So basic, clinging to cliffs and sounded by irrigation channels. With no electricity. They have been like this for thousands of years. There are people everywhere, mostly children tending goats or sheep or carting great wads of produce around preparing for the winter ahead. And boy the winters must be tough out here. Sat and watched the sun set over the mountains and contemplated my aching muscles.

Bad start to the day when two of the group decided the trek was not for them and headed back to Marrakech. A real pity to lose them and a slight thought as they went as to whether I should join them. It soon passed as we headed up river hoping over boulders and stepping stones as we went. We left the river and headed up, and up and up. 1100 meters up today and I felt every meter. It was worth it though, the views were tremendous. As we climbed we passed villages clinging to the sides of cliffs in places which are cut off by snow for two months each year. We had lunch in a charming oasis by a delightful brook and then climbed some more. Eventually made camp at the valley head by another stream. Some hardy souls went in and I washed my feet and head. The rest of me stayed dry.

Chilly in the morning until the sun cleared the hills. Several of the group heard a dog bark all night but I slept through it. Today was a long walk down the valley to a village at the bottom. 900m down which was hell on the knees. The village is popular with day trippers from Marrakech so was heaving. Well compared with what we have seen over the last couple of days. We camped near a river and some of the group stripped off for a wash in the river. Much to the interest of a couple of matronly women perched on the hillside watching.

Today began the big climb up into the mountains with a long long ascent up a winding path. Fantastic views as we climbed up passing villages clinging to dramatic hillsides. It was 900m up and boy was I glad when we reached the plateau for lunch. We stopped to view some neothlicic carvings and then after lunch it was another 2 hours until the camping place. A beautiful valley surrounded by rich ochre cliffs with gorgeous views in all directions. Rain in the evening so we fell asleep to the sounds of rain on the tent.

Breakfast in the hotel followed by two hour drive up towards the Atlas Mountains. Had a wonderful lunch sitting by the river before we joined the mules and the trekking began. The afternoon walk was described as a gentle three hour stroll. It certainly got the calf muscles working. Made camp in a gorge overlooking a tumbling river. Some went for a wash. Everyone knackered so we were all tucked up by 8.30. Fell asleep to the sound of the river bubbling below.

A nightmare journey to the airport, that will teach me to book a flight leaving Friday evening. Gridlock getting out of London. Just made the plane but it was touch and go. Arrived Marrakech at midnight so didn't see much last night. Spent today exploring the alleys and streets of the Medina. The main problem is dodging the scooters which fly through the winding lanes with merry abandon. People everywhere. Snake charmers, tattoists, painters the city has it all. And not to much hassling so far, much to my surprise as I have heard some horror stories. Of to the atlas mountains tomorrow so will be internet free for a couple of weeks. Scary.

Got the train back to the Capital for my final weekend in Poland. The weather turned nasty today so I headed for some museums, starting with the Warsaw Rising Museum. It pays tribute to those who tried to claim the city for Poland, in the last year of the War. The idea was to hold the city for 48 hours before the Red Army arrived to help. In practice the Red Army held back and let the Germans destroy the city and it`s inhabitants so they could walk in afterwards unopposed. The museum lays out the story of the two months the insurgents held the city and some of the heroes of the revolt. It`s very sobering with many exhibits documenting the cruel and barbaric way the Nazi`s exerted control over the city. After the uprising was crushed, Hitler ordered the complete destruction of the city, as a lesson to the rest of Europe and 90% of the city was turned to rubble. It`s a tribute to the Polish People that they rebuilt such a strong, bold city, which stands a memorial to all those who fought such vicious evil and who paid with their life.

Arrived in the pilgrim town of Czestochowa, try asking for that bus ticket and seeing where you end up. It a pilgrim town because of the sacred relic of the Black Madonna which resides at the Monastery of Jasan Gora. It’s a painting of the Virgin Mary and the Christ Child which is believed to have been painted by Saint Luke. Maybe he should have spent more time in art class rather than playing about on the Sea of Galilee as it looks like more like a baked potato cradling a grape to me. Apparently people walk for 20 days to get here and bring the picture offerings. Miracles are common judging from the number of crutches left behind, although I did notice the disabled lift at the exit as well as the entrance, so they are not guaranteed. It certainly draws the crowds, the place was full of devotees on their knees. Pope John Paul II is quite popular around here, judging by the number of statues of him. Some are of a better likeness than others. One looks more like Private Godfrey than the late Pontiff. Maybe there is a secret cult of Dad`s Army in the city.

Spent the last couple of days hiking in the Carpathian Mountains or to be precise theHigh Tatras, which as everyone knows are the only Alpine section of the range. There are certainly quite a few hills around, as my calf muscles and knees can attest to. Yesterday tried getting to the top of Mount Giewont which towers over the town, and almost made it, but was stopped by heavy snow near the top. I could see myself sliding all the way down if I continuted, and its about 900 metres, so I played safe. Today took the easy option and got a Cable Car to the top of Mount Kasprowy Wierch. A stunning journey. The mountain is right on the border between Poland and Slovakia so I was able to venture a few meters over the border. Heavy rain in the afternoon so I retreated to the Hotel.

Left the city and travelled up into the mountains today. It`s a pity to leave Krakow as it is such a charming little city with so much history and a very relaxed vibe. Before I left I visited the Wieliczka Salt Mine, a massive complex of caves and tunnels. It`s 150 meters down, and you have to walk down 52 stories. It`s worth it when you get there as there are some amazing sculptures carved out of the salt. Went for a short walk in the hills above Zakopane today. Some glorious views and loads of families on a day out. I must look polish as I keep getting asked for directions. Doubly embarrassing as when I stumble "no Polski" and shake my head they always say "Oh So Sorry to trouble you" in perfect English.

Spent the day at the industrial town of Oświęcim 40 KM west of Krakow. It’s a pretty non discript little town which may have faded into history, had it not been for the decision of the German authorities to locate one of the most lethal and efficient killing machines here and to give the town its German name Auschwitz. 

Visited what`s left of the Jewish quarter in the suburb of Kazimierz. There are not many Jews left in Krakow now, the Nazis saw to that. Before the war there was a population of around 65,000 Jews in the city, now there are around 200. The synagogues have become museums and monuments to man`s inhumanity to man. The Jews were first herded into the ghetto just south of the river, in Podgorze. The town square is full of empty chairs, representing the furniture abandoned by families as they were ripped apart and packed onto trains heading for the death camps. Some parts of the Ghetto wall still exist. A tiny area, packed with humanity and cut off from the Aryan world outside. There were heroes who did what they could to ease the suffering in that violent world. The Pharmacy Under the Eagle was run by a polish chemist throughout the war, who refused to move and provided much needed help to the occupants of the Ghetto. And just outside the walls the enamelware factory run by one Oscar Schindler still stands.

Caught the train down to Kraków this morning, just 3 hours by intercity express. Reasonable priced and you got a free cup of tea. British Rail take note. Kraków is a beautiful old city on the banks of the Vistula River. It survived the war more or less intact, unlike many if its inhabitants, so still has the glorious medieval Castle and churches. Climbed up Wawel Hill in the afternoon for a visit to the cathedral, former home of Pope John Paul II as archbishop of Kraków. Like most churched it`s full of treasures. Also a good few bodies, all that remain of the former Kings or Poland, including a couple of Women Kings. Liberation came early to Poland.

First thing this morning headed up to the top of the Palace of Culture and Science. I have a glorious view of it from my hotel room so headed to the top to see the view from the other side. It is amazing, with the whole of Warsaw laid out before you. Varsovian`s think the view is best because it`s the one point in the city you can`t see the bloody building from. It`s not that bad but is very Soviet looking. Visited the New Town in the afternoon, which was founded in the 14th Century. Saw the Monument to the Warsaw Uprising and the tomb of the unknown solider. Eventually reached the citadal, from where the Russian Tsar`s ruled the country, and its imposing Execution Gate where so many lost their lives after various uprisings.

A lovely sunny day in Warsaw to welcome me. Landed at 10.30 having caught the second flight of the day out of Heathrow. At least travelling at that time you have no problems with queues at security. Got the bus in from the airport and checked into the hotel. I`m on the 20th floor, with a wonderful view of the Palace of culture and science, a present from the Soviet`s. Spent the afternoon wandering around the old town, most of which is quite new, the previous version having been destroyed by the Nazis.