Last full day in Morocco, so headed over to the Ville Nouvelle, the part of the city built by the French. With wide tree lined boulevards and majestic fountains it is quite a contrast to the narrow winding lanes of the old Medina. Very pleasant just sitting in the park people watching. And less hassle as well. A long walk back in the dark, which was quite spooky. Had a refreshing dip in the pool in the Riad. The roof was open so I could lie in the water and see the stars above.

Headed back inland and have reached the ancient city of Fes. Baking hot and bustling with people. I thought Marrakech's souk was bad but it is nothing compared with Fes. It is like making the maze at Hampton court 100 times bigger and then dumping the pedestrian rush over Waterloo bridge each morning into the heart of it. One of the most confusing places to wander in the world, I've lost track of the times I have been completely lost. And every inch is filled with someone trying to sell you something. From a bunch of dried figs to a camels head and from a silver teapot to a wedding throne. The lane are to small to get cars up, a blessed relief, which makes it the world's largest contiguous car-free urban area. Doesn't stop the odd Donkey plodding through. Thank goodness the Riad I am staying in is near a city gate so I can sneak round the edge and escape the madness. Climbed up into the hills this afternoon for a panoramic view of the whole city.

Moved up the coast from the economic capital of the country to its political one, Rabat. It's a modern city with much going on. Spent some time down by the river watching the locals enjoy their Sunday afternoon. There was a funfair on the promenade, which looked fun if a little dicey. Today visited the ruins at Chellah, the site of the Roman settlement at Rabat. A long walk to get there, and it is roasting. Went for a walk in the souk tonight to try to find something to eat. Declined the snails and went instead for a Poulet sandwich.

Said goodbye to the walkers today and headed off on my own. First stop Casablanca. I got the train up from Marrakech, incredibly easy and just a three hour journey. Strange to see so much flatness having been used to Mountains for the last 11 days, but the coastal plain stretches for miles. Casablanca is, to be honest, a bit of a dump. The elegance of the film has faded somewhat and the centre is full of crumbling villas. Quite evocative wandering around. The city is the home of the world's third largest mosque, the Hassan II. It stands dramatically over the ocean and I have a fine view from my hotel room. Better than from the sea front which is one of the most rundown I have ever seen. The sea was filthy, although that didn't stop loads of young boys leaping off the mosque wall into the rubbish floating in it.

Spent the last night in Marrakech visiting the main city square, a fascinating place which becomes transformed as dusk comes. From a distance all you can see is a wall of people, and smoke rising from hundreds of small food stalls. The snake charmers have disappeared and have been replaced by a myriad of culinary outlets selling anything from snails to fish and chips. Its a bowl into which a seething mass of humanity has been poured and you just get swept along in the flow.

After 11 days of trekking finally returned to the hustle and bustle of the city of Marrakech. The last night was spent in a charming Gete overlooking Aremd with hot showers and meat. Something lacking over the last few days. The final part of the trek was a simple 40 minute walk into Imlil where we picked up the bus back to the city. Oh for the joy of a hotel room. But what a culture shock to be back in the madness that is Marrakech. Today we spent the morning on a city tour, meandering through the souks of tie old city. We visited a chemist shop with concoctions for everything from hair loss to piles. Wandered about in the afternoon and ended up at the Saladin Tombs. Impressive structures which prove that although you can't take it with you, you can damn well try.

Up at 5.30 again for the last of our peaks over 4000m. This one was the second highest in the atlas range at 4088m, Jebel Ouanoukrim. Probably the most difficult so far as it required some rock climbing half way up. Again fantastic views from the top overlooking the whole range and across the valley the mountain we climbed yesterday. The trip down was never ending as not only did we have to return to base camp but then drop the 1500m back to the village of Aremd in the valley below. Hassan our guide invited us to his house for tea and we met his delightful kids. It was our last walk today and although every muscle in my legs ache it has been a fantastic experience and well worth every heart felt step.

After a night spent buffeted by gale force winds tunnelling down the valley we today made the ascent up Mount Toubkal, at 4167m the highest mountain in North Africa. Started at 6.30 and it was a long three hour trudge over the scree to the top. Even after all the trekking still a pain in the calf muscles. The effort was worth it though with wonderful views from Marrakech right across the Atlas range. The top was only marred by the arrival of 102 Spanish bankers on a corporate bonding exercise which slightly spoilt the tranquillity of the peak.

Not the best night we had due to the arrival of several hundred goats just before dark. The plaintive cries took on a sinister and menacing quality at night. Still it was an early start as we had a mega climb before us up to the Assif n'Moursaine pass 1400 meters above us. We started the walk towards the immense slab of rock at 6.30. As we got nearer the vertical cliffs gained depth and a path emerged cris-crossing up into the mountains. After four hours of climbing we eventually made the top for some wonderful views across the lake behind us and beyond towards the Anti Atlas. From there it was all downhill to the mountain refuge at Toubkal base camp. A wonderful sight nestled in the mountains with hot showers waiting. Writing this overlooking the valley watching novice walkers struggling up the hill. Not seasoned veterans like us.

This morning left the Gete and the fertile valley behind and headed back up into the mountains. Just a 4 hour walk brought us to the lake sitting at the foot of an immense wall of rock over which we need to treck tomorrow. For today we camped by the lake with its emerald green waters still and silent beside us. The rocky terrain was not the ideal spot for a tent but the view was outstanding. In the evening the muleteers made their usual music with the pots and pans to send us to sleep. Just after sunset the moon rose over lake bathing the whole valley in soft eerie light.

After the trials of yesterday had a day of luxury today. Well everything is relative. Just a 100m climb out of the valley before a drop of 1350m down to the village of Amsouzart where we are spending the night in a Gete. Oh the luxury of a cold shower and a squat toilet as opposed to a frigid mountain stream and a hole in the ground. After 6 days wild camping this place feels like the Ritz. It's a relaxed little village by a stream in which there is a lot of washing being done by the locals. Had a little walk around. The muleteers seem happy to be here as well.

Today was one of the toughest days I've ever had. We woke at 5am and got up to a wonderful vista of stars twinkling over the whole valley. You forget how wonderful the night sky can be when you live in Europe, but out in the wilds, miles from civilisation it is a magnificent site. With the sun coming up we set of up the valley towards mount Jebel Adrar n'Dern, 1400 meters above us at a height of 4001m. It was a long trek up a very steep mountainside and at times I thought I wouldn't make it. But slowly and surely we all made the summit in 5 hours. It was a tremendous view from the top and we had our picnic lunch surveying the Atlas Mountains laid out before us. After lunch it was a slow trek down into the next camp where I have never been so glad to see a purple tent before.

What they describe as an easy day today, just a half day walk although it did involve a climb of 750m. It was a hard slog out of the valley but some wonderful views from the top. A few more valleys to cross and we were in camp by 1230 for a lunch of salad and lentils. Very good. After lunch the peace was disturbed by the bleating of a goat outside. It had been purchased from one of the villagers for our dinner. I declined the invitation to see it killed but according to one of the group who went to watch it was all very quick. The villages out here are amazing. So basic, clinging to cliffs and sounded by irrigation channels. With no electricity. They have been like this for thousands of years. There are people everywhere, mostly children tending goats or sheep or carting great wads of produce around preparing for the winter ahead. And boy the winters must be tough out here. Sat and watched the sun set over the mountains and contemplated my aching muscles.