Xian

Now in Xian the ancient capital of the Chinese Empire. Today went to view the Terracotta Warriors. An amazing sight especially considering they were buried for over 2000 years. Xian is a busy city whose prime attraction is the warriors. It still has the ancient city walls and i spent a few hours walking round them yesterday.

Over the last week I visited Nanjing and Shanghai. Nanjing is full of parks and temples with a large number of mausoleum to visit. It also has a memorial to the 300,000 Chinese who were massacred by the Japanese in just two months during the war. They were rounded up and machine gunned down, or beheaded and stabbed with bayonets. The museum has a number of photographs of the killings taking place for which you need a strong stomach.

Shanghai was frantic and busy. The waterfront was a mass of tourists and touts all trying to flog you a Timex watch. Quite exhausting but with some hideaways to catch your breath. My hotel overlooked the main shopping square and I even had a balcony to go and wave to the crowds.

Tomorrow I get the overnight train to Chengdu and then maybe a trip sown the Yangtze through the Three Gorges, depending on how much time I have.
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Nanjing

Had an eventful week. Beijing was a great city with lots of atmosphere. It was fantastic standing in Tienanmen Square, watching the kids fly their kites with Chairman Mou looking down on it all like some big Father Christmas. The place is lit up like a Film Set it's quite amazing.

Got the bus out to the Great Wall. Fantastic sight even though it's been restored like some Disney world attraction. The trick was to climb over the barbed wire at the end of the tourist bit to sample the authentic thing. I wasn't sure but as a tour group from the Peoples Liberation was joining it it seamed a pity to resist. The wall is very steep as well. Made the American tour groups puff a bit Not sure about the piped music either.

Got the train down to Jinan from Beijing. Six hours in hard seating. A bit cramped but there was no spitting allowed as it was an express train. In fact the sign said "To Keep Fit, Do not spit" Maybe it was some kind of threat.

While in Jinan visited TaiShan, one of the Chinese holy mountains. Climbed from the halfway point to the top and it was a real killer. Views fantastic at the top though. Stayed the night and got up to see the sunrise. However a force 10 gale had blow up in the night, and it was near freezing point so it was a very exhilarating experience. View was fantastic, but was shivering in my very cold hotel room for aged afterwards. Place was packed despite the weather, although I was the only non Chinese up there. Things got very excitable when the sun finally made it's appearance and it got a big cheer.

Had to climb down after that which has really done my knees in. Been hobbling around Nanjing today and I just can't face any stairs.

Got the overnight train down last night. Hard sleeper, which was very efficient. Reasonably comfotable and I got quite a lot of sleep in. Was very exhausted though after the mountain. Don't think I'll be doing any more mountains on this trip.

Resting here tomorrow then off to Shanghai for the weekend.
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Fw: Beijing

Just spent an exhausting day walking around the Forbidden City. Hoards and hoards of tourists all trying to get through the same gate. Most of them seam to be local as there are very few westerners around. In fact I gather native English speakers have been at a premium in Tienanmen Square since the outbreak of SARS in the spring. It explains why they all want to practise on me.

Flight was very smooth. I'd recommend Areoflot anytime. It was a day late getting here but I did get upgraded which sort of made up for it. By the way the cakes in the 1st class lounge at Moscow airport are rubbish.

Off to the great Wall tomorrow, if I can work out which Bus goes there.
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