Back in seoul


Last day in Korea so spent it at a couple of Royal palaces I had missed including the shrine where the spirits gf the past kings reside. They live in little wooden boxes in a beautiful garden in the centre of the city. Not a bad way to enjoy your death.

Climbed up Namsan mountain for a final look over the city from the tower on the top. It's a wonderful view. The walk was strap, and half the city joined me on the climb. But the view from the top was stunning with the while metropolis laid outatyou feed. Certainly gives you an idea of the massive size of the city. 

DMZ


Crossed Into North Korea today by virtue of a trip to the DMZ and the Joint Security Area. Quite a bizarre and slightly scary place where soldiers from the Republic of Korea stand face to face with their counterparts from the People's Republic of Korea.

The actual border is just marked by a concrete block, and you could walk to the north of it wasn't for the fact you would probably be shot on the way. You can feel the tension as the soldiers eyeball each other just a few feet apart. 

To enter the DMZ. First you have to be briefed by US soldiers and sign a waver that if you get shot by North Korea you won't hold the government responsible. Then you are taken by bus, through the tank traps and mine fields up to the row of buildings which mark the border. 

You can then gaze into the North and watch the guards observing you. You can look at the propaganda village of Gijeong-dong with its massive flag and its streets empty of people. And you can see the tree where two U.S. Soldiers were hacked to death while trying to trim a tree in 1968. 

You even walk into the North inside the building which straddles the cease fire line and see where all major talks between the North and South take place. 

There are occasional incidents all the time, the most recent last month when South Korean activists sent up balloons with peace messages only to have them spot down by the guards of the North. 

Finished with a look at one of the tunnels North Korea tried digging under the line as a possible invasion route 

Suwon




Now in Suwon. Back in the suburbs of Seoul. It's home to another fortress, one larger and much more complete than the on in Gongju. Parts of it look practically new, which, given it was rebuilt after the Japanese trashed it. Is not surprising

For the price of 1000 won you can walk the 5km of ramparts, including a very steep stretch which would give the Great Wall a run for its money. GreAt view from the top.

Decided the long walk to the toilet museum was probably not worth it, much as it would have been interesting seeing statues of various people relieving themselves. The city is obviously proud it it as it tops their things to do list. 

Daejeon



In the city of Daejeon, which the Lonely Planet is very dismissive off, but I found to be a lovely town on the banks of the river.

It's the seat of government for the province and shares many attributes of similar cities around the world. For some reason politicians like there centres to have vast sweeping boulevards and monumental buildings. I think they think it gives them gravitas.  It sure makes crossing the road take an eternity.

The city of Gongju, just a short bus ride away, was once the capital. The old fortress stands guard over the new town with sweeping views across the countryside. The walls are all that remain now. The buildings are long gone. 

Daegu



Spent a couple of days on the city of Daegu, an hour north of Busan. Came up by train. The timetables give you an idea of how compact the country is, as the high speed KTX train could have got me to Seoul in just a couple of hours. Took the slower one though which wound its way up through the river valley. 

Deagu is a friendly little city up in the hills. Visited the Arbaretum, built on land reclaimed from a landfill dump. It certainly  is a pleasant place to while away a few hours even if you are accompanied by most of the population. There was s flower exhibition on which may explain the crowds. Believe me there is nothing you can't make out of a few potted plants. 

Getting around should be easy on the subway, although I did manage to head in the wrong direction,twice. So annoying when you count the stops and when you get to zero you are no where near where you think you are.

Price is very cheap, around 1200 won or about 50p. Someone on the train asked me why the London subway is so expensive. Good question.