Back in Lisbon to catch the flight home, and it's a city full of sunshine.

Staying up the hill this time in what could be a different city. Down near the river it's all terracotta roofs and tiny lanes, creaking buildings and history. Up here it's parks and grand boulevards, statues and Pizza Hut.

The park is named after a royal visit from King Edward VII in 1902. Very nice of them. I don't recall a João IV park in London. It has a lovely view over the city rooftops to the shimmering river below

Traveled up to Porto, a lovely city straddling the River Douro. The city clings to the hill either side of a dramatic gorge, which allows some spectacular views across the rooftops towards the ocean beyond.

The place has a very medieval feel, with some of the tiny lanes and passages unchanged since the period when Portugal ruled a large part of the known world. With all those steps to climb every day the populace would certainly have built up the stamina for the role.

The sun finally came out today after a wet few days. Took the tram down to the seaside but the seas still very rough. Lovely sitting in the sun watching the breakers smash into the quay side.

Now in the old capital Coimbra, well it was the capital until 1255, doesn't time fly. It is still the home to the oldest university in Portugal, which sits proudly on the hill overlooking the city. Some wonderful old buildings gives the place a real sense of history.

It's also very wet, or it was this weekend anyhow. Makes claiming up those hills a rather precarious pursuit. Staying in the Dona Inês hotel, named after the lover of King Peter I. His father didn't approve the match so had her killed, but Peter had the last laugh. After he came to the throne he had her dug up, crowned and made the court kiss her decaying hand. I think he was in denial.

Down by the river is an old convent which was under water until a few years ago. The way it's raining it may be back under sooner than it hoped.

Arrived in the quaint old town of Evora, about 90 minutes by train from Lisbon. Walked up to the old city square where there was some kind of children's parade going on, reconstructing past events. Got a bit worried when I saw a waft of smoke go up, as, during the inquisition, they used to burn heretics in the square. Now that's taking historical reenactment a bit to far, I thought, imagining some poor five year old tied to a spit. But, phew, it was only the hot chestnut man firing up.

Ventured into the hills following the trail of the old aqueduct, built in the Middle Ages to bring fresh water into the city. Walk was rather spoiled by a couple of dogs, who attached themselves to me on the mistaken assumption that 1, I like dogs and 2, that I was happy to take them for a walk. They followed me for miles, earning the wrath of some old peasant bloke who harangued me for not bringing a pooper scooper with me. Lost them eventually when they saw something small to chase.

There is a chapel in the church where the walls are lined with human bones. Interesting decor, which is meant to signify the fleetingness of life. I think I'll stick to wallpaper.