Finally arrived in Hong Kong after my mega trip across China. There were times I though I would never make it and be stuck trying to get a ticket out of some remote region forever but here I am. And it's like entering another world. Different language, different people. Even a different menu in McDonald's.

Last week I left Wuhan and travelled down to Guilin on the overnight train. It is a beautiful place with fantastic limescale rock formations. Wandering the streets of the city was interesting. The restaurants all look like pet shops, with every kind of animal from fish to ducks and from dogs to rabbits all lined up in cages outside the main door. All you have to do is select the one you want and hey presto, 20 Min's later it's delivered fresh to your table. You can even pick you own snake.

Stayed there a couple of nights before travelling onto Guangzhou.

Guangzhou, of course,used to be know as Canton, so they all talk Cantonese. So the couple of worlds I can actually pronounce on Mandarin have become completely useless. At least the written language is the same. I can recognise at least 30 Chinese characters now. Unfortunately most Chinese can read about 6000, so I have a bit of a way to go. Still just show me your train ticket and I can tell you exactly if your berth is Up, Down or middle.

From Guangzhou got the bus down to Zauhai and walked over the border to Macau. Despite the fact Macau was returned from the Portuguese, to the Peoples Republic in 1999, two years after Hong Kong, it is still like entering a new country. It even has it's own money. They area is tiny and very laid back. I was a bit afraid the drivers may be worse than the Chinese when I arrived. I got a taxi from the border point to the hotel and noticed all the roads were boarded up like a race track. What kind of drivers can they be if they have to board up the roads like it was a Grand Pr ix? I thought. It was only later I discovered it actually was a Grand Prix. The 50th Macau Formula 3 race. The drivers are actually quite polite. They actually stop at crossings.

I arrived in Hong Kong by ferry, this morning. Just a 55 minute trip across the mouth of the pearl river. I'm sitting in a cafe on top of Victoria Peak as I write this, with Hong Kong Harbour lit up below me. It's a fantastic sight.

I'm missing several things about China already. The crowds of people, the noise and the spitting. Especially the spitting. I've never know a people who spit so much. And not just the spitting it's the build up to it. The clearing of the throat, the gargling and the wrenching all a long prelude to a mighty wad of Flem flying into the nearest gutter.

My cult of celebrity has gone as well. I was getting used to being asked if someone could take their picture with me, every time I stopped to draw breth. I think they must collect pictures of foreigners for their dart board.
They climax was when I had do do a whole school party, one by one, on top of a cliff in Guilin. They all wanted to practise their English as well. An awful lot listen to the BBC and VOA on short wave. All except one young lawyer who told me he would listen but it was forbidden by the government. He will go far.
So just a few days sight seeing and shopping in Hong Kong and then it's the joys of Areoflot back home. Maybe they will be a day late on the return journey as well.

Finally arrived in Wuhan today after a long trip down the River Yangtze. It was certainly an experience.

There was me, Scott a diver from Australia and 300 Chinese tourists. We did have a Chinese guide to help get tickets, but her only English phrases were, 'Give me money', 'You want WC?, and 'Thank you'. Needless to say we were pretty much in the dark about what was happening most of the time. In the end we just went with the flow and followed the masses each time the boat stopped. I was caught out once when it stopped at midnight and everyone got off to go to funfair for a couple of hours, as I had already gone to bed, but I don't think I missed much.

We certainly managed to see the Three Georges, which, even through the haze, were fantastic. They must have been spectacular before the water level was raised. It is already up 135m above what it was and is due to go up to 175m. So it's a pretty big dam all told. We did get a tour of it as the boat was going through the locks, and the size is staggering. To big to comprehend really. With all the cranes and lorries dwarfed by the immense wall on concrete it's like something out of a science fiction film.

The pollution in the country is horrific. Everywhere seams to be under a permanent haze of smog. I'm told it's better in the south, which is were I am heading next. That will be a relief as it makes my eyes stings going out in it. Not that pollution is the biggest danger, that has to be the traffic. They are all completely mad driver. Crossing the road is a nightmare as red lights are just ignored. You are a bit safer from cars on the pavement, although you do get the odd one undertaking using the pavement but you have all the motor bikes and bicycles to contend with. No wonder there are so many accidents. By contrast travelling by rail is a joy.

Anyway off to Gulin overnight tomorrow. There are supposed to be some beautiful limestone hills down there and clearer air hopefully. Then on to Hong Kong.

This has been a bit of an effort to type as the computer keeps trying to turn my words into Chinese characters. Hopefully I won the battle.

Now in Xian the ancient capital of the Chinese Empire. Today went to view the Terracotta Warriors. An amazing sight especially considering they were buried for over 2000 years. Xian is a busy city whose prime attraction is the warriors. It still has the ancient city walls and i spent a few hours walking round them yesterday.

Over the last week I visited Nanjing and Shanghai. Nanjing is full of parks and temples with a large number of mausoleum to visit. It also has a memorial to the 300,000 Chinese who were massacred by the Japanese in just two months during the war. They were rounded up and machine gunned down, or beheaded and stabbed with bayonets. The museum has a number of photographs of the killings taking place for which you need a strong stomach.

Shanghai was frantic and busy. The waterfront was a mass of tourists and touts all trying to flog you a Timex watch. Quite exhausting but with some hideaways to catch your breath. My hotel overlooked the main shopping square and I even had a balcony to go and wave to the crowds.

Tomorrow I get the overnight train to Chengdu and then maybe a trip sown the Yangtze through the Three Gorges, depending on how much time I have.

Had an eventful week. Beijing was a great city with lots of atmosphere. It was fantastic standing in Tienanmen Square, watching the kids fly their kites with Chairman Mou looking down on it all like some big Father Christmas. The place is lit up like a Film Set it's quite amazing.

Got the bus out to the Great Wall. Fantastic sight even though it's been restored like some Disney world attraction. The trick was to climb over the barbed wire at the end of the tourist bit to sample the authentic thing. I wasn't sure but as a tour group from the Peoples Liberation was joining it it seamed a pity to resist. The wall is very steep as well. Made the American tour groups puff a bit Not sure about the piped music either.

Got the train down to Jinan from Beijing. Six hours in hard seating. A bit cramped but there was no spitting allowed as it was an express train. In fact the sign said "To Keep Fit, Do not spit" Maybe it was some kind of threat.

While in Jinan visited TaiShan, one of the Chinese holy mountains. Climbed from the halfway point to the top and it was a real killer. Views fantastic at the top though. Stayed the night and got up to see the sunrise. However a force 10 gale had blow up in the night, and it was near freezing point so it was a very exhilarating experience. View was fantastic, but was shivering in my very cold hotel room for aged afterwards. Place was packed despite the weather, although I was the only non Chinese up there. Things got very excitable when the sun finally made it's appearance and it got a big cheer.

Had to climb down after that which has really done my knees in. Been hobbling around Nanjing today and I just can't face any stairs.

Got the overnight train down last night. Hard sleeper, which was very efficient. Reasonably comfotable and I got quite a lot of sleep in. Was very exhausted though after the mountain. Don't think I'll be doing any more mountains on this trip.

Resting here tomorrow then off to Shanghai for the weekend.

Just spent an exhausting day walking around the Forbidden City. Hoards and hoards of tourists all trying to get through the same gate. Most of them seam to be local as there are very few westerners around. In fact I gather native English speakers have been at a premium in Tienanmen Square since the outbreak of SARS in the spring. It explains why they all want to practise on me.

Flight was very smooth. I'd recommend Areoflot anytime. It was a day late getting here but I did get upgraded which sort of made up for it. By the way the cakes in the 1st class lounge at Moscow airport are rubbish.

Off to the great Wall tomorrow, if I can work out which Bus goes there.