Got out into the hills surrounding Chiang Mai today, first stop was the temple of Wat Phra That Don Suthep which sits on the mountain towering over the city. It would have been a beautiful view but the air quality was so poor you could hardly make out the city through the haze. It's up a mountain because when an elephant was sent out into the jungle, with a relic tied to its back it reached the spot of the temple and dropped down dead. So they built a temple here. As good a reason as any. The temple was heaving with hundreds of Thai pilgrims coming to offer their prayers and give thanks to various gods. Lots of street theatre as well, mostly children performing dancing and singing plus a rather energetic pantomime cow. Later went to the Queen Sirikik Botanic Garden which was well worth a visit if you are into things horticultural, even if you are not it had some lovely displays. Hand back my car tomorrow. Thai's win the award for the slowest get away from traffic lights in history.

Travelled up to Chiang Mai via the sleepy town of Lampang. It's so sleepy that the Buddha sent down some angles disguised as White Chickens to wake the citizens up, which explains the large statues of White Chickens at all the roundabouts. Near the city is a Elephant Conversation Centre where Elephants from all over the country are kept. It's wonderful to see such large animals so close as they performed their show, pulling trunks, playing the drums and even painting. Some were very good and some had the touch of Picasso. The Elephant Parade was straight out of Jungle Book. Its also the home to six of the Royal White Elephants. All white Elephants belong to the King, but being Royal they were out of view, and of course they can't work but still require a lot of upkeep, hence the expression about White Elephants. Arrived in Chiang Mai this afternoon. It is the biggest City since Bangkok, but feels almost rural in some places. Certainly has a relaxing vibe even if it is chock full of tourists. Took in a couple of Temples and walked around the moat.

Spent the last couple of days in and around the ancient city of Sukhothai. Today visited the heritage park, an amazing collection of temples and buildings all that is left of the once capital of Thailand. Buddha's everywhere, sitting, standing, walking, in meditation, defeating evil, fighting plague, I've seen them all. There was even a large talking one which reportedly gave out words of advice to devotees, although the game was slightly given away by the discovery of a tunnel leading to a apace behind the Buddha where a helpful monk would aid the oral abilities of the statue. Yesterday got well away from it all by visiting Ramkhamhaeng National park and going for a walk up a very very steep hill. Worth it for the views but boy what a climb. I was the first non Thai to visit since 20th Feb according to the visitors log and the 10th this year so am in an exclusive club.

Left Lopburi and headed north, but not before a quick visit to the Wat Phar Phutthabat or Temple of the Buddha's Footprint. Now you may think that Buddha never came to Thailand, but no, according to a a`hunter called Pram Bun he did and he left a rather large footprint behind which the hunter discovered in 1623. It is rather large, more like the Buddha's bath than his footprint, but it certainly draws a crowd of devotees come to press gold leaf onto its sides. It gets a million pilgrims during the dry season each year and is surrounded by many temples, shrines and food stalls. After my viewing headed north via the so called Garden Route which goes through many National Parks. Ended up in Phitsanulok on the Nan river. Quiet a quiet little place minding its own business. Some massive Cockroaches on the streets though.

Moved up to the city of Lopburi about 50km from Ayutthaya. It’s called the Monkey Town because of the large number of maraques found in the town, mostly around the temples on the traffic island. Aggressive little things they are to. When I got my ticket the seller pressed a packet of sunflower seeds into my hand ‘for the monkeys’. Well I only had it for about 10 seconds before some vicious little brute had it out of my hand. Mugged by a monkey, at least it was only sunflower seeds. I don’t know if there is some festival going on or whether the residents of Lopburi like to party every night, but the palace is heaving with people. There are thousands of lights strung in the tress and around every corner there is some piece of theatre going on, mainly about men with torches and women being carried on chairs. One corner of the park had been turned into a Chelsea flower show experience with loads of ornamental gardens set up, and another part had hundreds of food stalls selling everything you could possibly want. Its all very impressive and very busy and unlike England not a drop of litter to be seen. I was just trying to make my way slowly down a very crowded avenue when it all started moving rather quickly and one man made he way with no problem. Probably the only way to cut through the crowds, on Elephant. One very popular exhibit was a boxing ring where two seven year olds were blindfolded and then put in the ring together. It was a form of Blind Man’s Bluff crossed with beating the hell out of each other. The crowed loved it.

Arrived in Ayutthaya, Thailand's capital for over 400 years. As a result it is jam packed with ruins of palaces and temples. The whole city is on an island between two rivers which makes distances seem deceptive. And its very hot. Had to sit under a tree and watch the elephants parade up and down, laden with tourists, until it cooled down.

Today was spent in the two valleys of the two rivers Kwai. Before today I didn’t even know there were two Rivers Kwai. But there are. To be precise The Kwai Yai and the Kwai Noi meaning large River and small River Kwai. The Kwai Yai heads up into a richly forested area, home of Srinakarind National Park and the Erawan Waterfalls. The falls are reportedly the most beautiful in Thailand and they certainly are picturesque, tabulated in seven sections, each fall descends into a bathing pool glinting in the reflected sunlight. The pools are a popular place to bathe mainly with Thai students and French tourists. Its quite a slog to the top but worth it for the views and a refreshing paddle. The signs said beware of aggressive Monkeys, but I didn’t even see any tame ones. Probably frightened off by the alarming quantities of cellulite exhibited by the more rotund tourists taking a dip in the waters. In the afternoon I trekked across to the valley of the Kwai Noi and it is this valley that the Death Railway winds its tortuous way up. It only goes as far as Nam Tok now, but 30 Km’s on from that spot is the Hellfire Pass, a walking trail and museum located and one of the most difficult sections of the track. The pass itself is a 18 meter deep canyon scraped through solid rock by prisoners using just the most rudimentary tools and under the most appalling conditions. You can’t imagine how bad their suffering must have been, working up to 18 hours a day in the hellish heat ridden by disease and malnutrition. The whole pass is now a memorial to those who died and features several moving monuments and plaques. Some veterans who have died more recently, have asked for their ashes to be spread at the pass marking how life defining their time as Prisoners of War was.

Escaped the heat of the city and headed west into the coastal plains of Thailand. I was in two minds as to whether to hire a car or not as the guide books have different advice. In the end I did although I was slightly regretting it in the chaos trying to escape Bangkok. In the end I did but only by driving through a shopping mall at one point. The good news is I can make my own way and am not dependent on trains and buses. Reached the town of Kanchanaburi, centre of the notorious Death Railway. My hotel is just next to the Bridge over the River Kwai and this afternoon I want for a walk over the infamous bridge. It’s quite an adventure in itself as you have to walk up the middle of the track and hope a train doesn’t come along. Well there are refuge points at various intervals across the bridge should you get caught out. The biggest problem was trying to squeeze past over large European tourists who seem to take 30 minutes taking a picture on the middle of the bridge. The bridge isn’t the one built by POW’s, that was blown up by the British during the war, but a replica built soon afterwards. It’s not the massive structure of the film either although it does feel as rickety. I spent some time at the Death Railway museum, some chilling facts about the railways construction, which cost the lives`of 16,000 POW’s and 100,000 Asian labours. Next door to the museum is the Cemetery. Beautifully kept with row after row or markers each indicating a son or husband who would never return and whose short life had been so brutally cut short.

Took in a few of the Buddhist Temples dotted around the city. It was a long hot climb up to the top of the Golden Mount, but worth it for the views over the city. The Chedi at the top contains some of the Buddha's teeth apparently. Lots of activity with people giving offerings of fruit and flowers to the statues. Moved on to the Wat Pho which contains an enormous reclining Buddha stretched out in a magnificent temple. Was sitting in the temple next door when parts of the floor started to be cordoned off. At first I thought it was because of some deeply significant religious ritual that was due to take place, but no, the monk just wanted to get the hoover out. Hoping to escape from the heat of the city tomorrow.

Another scorching hot day, although I am starting to get used to it. Walked up to Jim Thompson's House. Thompson was an American who settled in Bangkok after the war. His house is in a tranquil setting just next to the canal. Well I say tranquil that's until the boats come along. When I read that there are narrow boats on the canal acting as Taxis, I had visions of sedate cruising up the waterway in a similar fashion to the Narrowboats on England. Not quite. The boats tear along with a ferocity that leaves the waters turbulent for minutes after performing in the manner of speedboats rather than canal boats. They certainly live up to their reputation of moving people far faster than road transport can do.

Walked up to another Royal Palace. This one is still used for ceremonial occasions and the treasures within are stunning. Gold Howdahs and ornate thrones. All very spectacular.

Arrived in the sweltering heat of the Thai capital this morning after an overnight flight changing planes at Munbai. Nearly missed the connection as the flight was an 90 minutes late leaving London, purely because it couldn't get a take off slot.

Was rather alarmed to hear that Bangkok's Thai name is Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Yuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Phiman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit. Scary, Imagine having to put that you letter headings.

Checked into the Hotel and then made for the Royal Palace. The best way to go is apparently by boat so I caught an orange flanged shuttle up the river. It was a little choppy and the staff were a bit free and easy on the safety matters, but it got me there and avoided the horrendous traffic. The Palace was spectacular. Amazing buildings and spectacular statues. I did wonder why so many tourists were going around the place in their pyjamas! Then I realised the rather garish trousers were on loan from the temple authorities, and bare legs are a no no in the temple. I suppose making them so outlandish means they will never get stolen.