Port Alegre

So new day new country. Drove down to Port Alegre yesterday and returned the hire car. It was quite a shock coming down from the alpine atmosphere in the hills to the muggy heat of the port city. Sat by the river and watched the joggers pounding the sidewalk, the one legged homeless man having a shower and the beggars going through the rubbish bins looking for tin cans to recycle. From Port Alegre it was a choice of 18 hours in a bus, or 90 minutes in a plane to get to Buenos Aires, so I went for the plane. Six hours on a bus was more than enough. Had a fantastic view off the city, bathed in sunshine as we flew in. Wandered around this afternoon. Saw the flag being lowered outside the Casa Rosada as well as a demo passing by. Not sure what it was for but it involved a lot of moterbikes. There was a tango going on in the street. They were looking for volunteers but I didn`t offer.

Canyons

Spent today exploring some of the Canyons of the Serra Gaúcha. Started with the Canyon de Fortaleza, 23km down a dirt track from Cambara do Sul. Unfortunately the Canyon was full of cloud so I didn`t get the best views, however what I saw in the rare gaps was stunning. It was amazing sitting on a rock on the edge of the 900m drop with nothing but clouds around. I felt like Mary Poppins on her cloud. This afternoon travelled down to Canela and did a couple more Canyons, this time in the sunshine. Staying at Gramado. It was settled by Germans and Italians so blond hair and blue eyes are the local fashion. The town is very Swiss with chalets and chocolate everywhere.
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Cambará do Sul

Still have my hire car, and today ventued onto the brazillian motorways, quite an experience. Drove down the coast to Torres, just over the border in Rio Grande do Sul , it has a lovely location by the sea with wonderful views from the lighthouse above the town. This afternoon had a somewhat frustrating drive, mainly due to the Brazillian`s lack of road signs. I think they must be expecting Uruguay to invade and so have had them all removed. The roads are not in the best of shape and I got completely lost in the rural lanes. After two hours of what should have been a 30 minute drive, I finally saw the church in the town square I was aiming for. On the other side of a bloody big river. So near yet so far. Eventually I made my way to Cambará do Sul. It was worth it as I is in a lovely location high in the mountains of the Sierra Geral. Not many tourists about, I am the only guest in my hotel. It made their day when I turned up.
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Ilha de Santa Catarina

Spent today in the south of the Island. Tried to find a nature trail over the hill but got rather lost and ended up in a small stream. Great views though and I saw parts of the Island most tourists don`t get to experience. Weather a bit better today but still rain on and off.
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Florianópolis

Yesterday got the bus down to Florianópolis the capital of Santa Catarina. It`s a strange city as part is on the Ilha de Santa Catarina and part on the mainland. I`m staying in the historic centre which is on the Island. Spent yesterday afternoon wandering around and then today hired a car to try to see something of the Island. Weather hasn`t been the best with Thunderstorms rumbling throughout the day and heavy rain this afternoon. Did manage to get some long walks along the beaches which were filled with surfers making the most of the waves. Thank goodness I brought a brolly.
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Curitiba

Spent today exploring more of the city of Curitiba. It`s a lovely place, by far the most relaxing city I`ve been in since I arrived in Brazil, with many parks and squares to spend time in. Visited the Jardim Botânico this morning and then took a trip up the Telecom tower for a wonderful view over the whole city. In the afternoon I took the tourist bus which loops the city taking in all the points of interest. Heading further south tomorrow.
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Serra Verde Express

Took the Serra Verde Express across the mountains down towards the coast. It is an amazing piece of engineering, travelling through tunnels hacked through Granite, Viaducts hundreds of feet above raging rivers and tracks clinging onto the edge of mountains. As the crow files it`s only about 70km, but the train takes three hours to wind its way down the mountain. Weather wasn`t all it could be, with low cloud hiding some of the views this morning, although it was a lot better this afternoon coming back. The end stop was Morretes and charming little town on the banks of the Rio Nhundiaquara.
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Heading South

Took the bus down to Curitiba, in the state of Paransa. Another long bus journey, seven hours this one, but went through some lovely countryside. Staying in a hotel opposite the Bus station, which saves my legs or the hassle of a taxi. Very handy actually as I am planning to go on a train trip into the mountains tomorrow, and the train station is right next door to the Rhodovaria. My Portuguese is slowly improving, I’m just about managing to buy bus tickets. It was hopeless in the snack bar though. Just had to take a random punt. Very nice food, except for the green wiggley thing in my salad. As I couldn’t understand the menu it may have been an extra.
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Jardins

Spent the morning back in the centre of the city. It`s amazing how much more relaxing it felt with the sun out and hundreds of workers milling around. This afternoon wandered down to the Parque do Ibirapuera. I was planing to visit a few museums or even the Zoo today, but it`s Monday so they were all closed. Had to make do with wandering around the lake and admiring the Sky Scrapers in the distance. Moving down to Parana tomorrow.
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São Paulo

Yesterday left a very wet Paraty and inched my way along the coast to São Paulo. The trip followed the coast for many miles and the stormy weather didn`t seem to put off the surfers who were out in droves. São Paulo is a massive city, the biggest in Brazil and the second biggest in all the Americas, it just lags behind Mexico City. Am staying in the Jardins area of the city which is quite lively if a bit hilly. My calf muscles are getting quite a workout. Today ambled into the centre of the city for a look at some museums and monuments. I went into the Cathedral but there was a show going on. Lots of men in funny costumes throwing smoke and water around. Some sort of Pantomime I guess. Just been for a snack in the shopping center. It was a pay per Kilo restaurant so you chose what you want and pay for it by weight. Excellent idea.
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Forts and Churches

Pottered around Paraty during the day. Went in a few churches but they were full of statues of Christ complete with authentic bleeding wounds. I hadn`t had my lunch so didn`t stay long. Visited the Casa da Cultura and the Forte Defensor Perpetuo. Fantastic views over the bay. The Fort had a display of relics from the slave trade. Call me uninformed, but I didn`t realise just how big the slave trade was in Brazil. 40% of all slaves transported from Africa ended up in Brazil and the practice wasn`t outlawed until 1888. We are so used to thinking about slavery in the United States you forget there were many other countries which suffered appalling regimes and caused tremendous suffering around the world. Rain in the afternoon so I retired to the Pousada pool.
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Islands

Spent today on a boat cruising around many of the little islands which surround Paraty. It was an interesting voyage as I was the only non Portuguese speaking person on the boat, so every move was an adventure. In the end it was great fun. Lots of stopping for swimming. One thing about the Brazilian`s is they don`t mind getting their kit off, no matter how past their prime they are. My shipmates were not in the first flush of youth and I don`t think I`ve ever seen so much exposed Cellulite or overhanging beer bellies, combined with skimpy swimwear.
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Paraty

Left the intensity of the city of Rio and headed East along the coast to the charming colonial town of Paraty. It was a five hour bus journey, which was quite a lot seeing as I have hardly moved on the map. Most of the time was spent in jams getting out of Rio. Finding the correct bus was a bit of a challenge. If anyone wants to buy Rio Bus Station a departures board it would be very much appreciated. As it is you need to track down the bus company who is going your way and then try to buy a ticket. Paraty certainly is a contrast to the city. Very relaxing with no hassles. The waterfront is gorgeous looking out onto several small Islands. Hoping to get a boat trip out around them tomorrow.
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Centro

Spent most of the day in Centro, the main business section of the city, but also home to a few museums and churches. Incredibly hot again, takes some getting used to after a summer in England. Walked back to Copacabana, a trip which involved a very steep hill. What a strange place to put a city. Off down the coast tomorrow as I work my way down towards Argentina.
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Cristo Redentor

Took the cog train up the mountain to see the view from Christ`s lofty perch, and it is some view. I can see why he looked so small now, it`s a very long way up. 710 meters high in fact and the view is absolutely staggering. You can see the whole city from the airport in the North to Ipanema in the south, spread out at your feet. The hill I sweated and panted up yesterday, to get a view over the Lagoa, looks like a little pimple far far below. It was packed up there mind you, and you had to be careful picking your way through the bodies prostrate before the saviour. Not because of any religious passion, it was the only way to get a decent photograph of him.
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Rio de Janeiro

Spent the day at the seaside. Well if seaside is the correct word for the vast expanse of sun kissed sand they is just a block from my hotel. Copacabana was heaving with locals and tourists alike taking the morning eea air. The was a marathon in the morning, why is it wherever I go I always end up getting tangled up in a marathon. This afternoon wandered over to Ipanema and then around the Lagona. Although it was a bit hazy got very sunburnt.
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Flying down to Rio

Long flight down to Rio, via Lisbon. Very smooth and I slept most of the way. First impressions of Rio are of a massive city, built around stunning scenery. The trip from the airport was fascinating. One thing that surprised me was how small the figure of Christ looked up on the hill. You are so used to seeing it close up you think it is massive. It probably is when you get up close, but the old chap gets a bit lost in the hills. Staying in Copacabana just a block from the beach. Just went out for a walk as the sun was going down and the place was heaving.
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