Took an early morning trip out onto the river to see the sunrise. It was already bustling with people bathing and washing in the river, The laundry service was going full pelt with sheets being bludgeoned into cleanliness.

Hundreds were taking the early oppotunity to purify themselves in the holy waters. Nothing like bathing in a sea of Ecoli to set you up for breakfast.

Took a walk out to the fort on the other side of the river, which involved crossing what was described in the Lonely Planet as a sturdy pontoon bridge. What the guidebook didn't say is that I would be sharing it with hundreds of walkers, cyclists, motorbikes and auto-rickshaws? Going both ways on both sides of the bridge. Add to the fact it had a few decidedly ropey planks in spots it was an adventurous walk.

The fort had seen better days but the museum was interesting, containing a few relics of the Raj, such as an Ivory Howdah, bit insensitive, to a set of dueling pistols. It was packed with Indian tourists, and me. A father plonked his 2 year old daughter