Arrived by Train in Varanasi, the city on the banks of the Ganges that has been the spiritual heart of India for several thousand years.

The river bank is lined with Ghats, steep stone steps edging steeply down towards the river. It's difficult to imagine that in a few months all these steps will be underwater as the monsoon floods hit the city.

It's a good city to die in, if you are Hindu, as it means you can break part of the cycle of endless rebirth and edge towards nirvana. Around 80 bodies are cremated each day on the Ghats, each funeral pyre taking around 3 hours to burn. It;s fascinating watching the ceremonies take place, with the bodies being first immersed in the Ganges before being laid on the pyre.

Further along, people are bathing in the river to cleanse their sins. Given the city still pumps raw sewage into the river, cleansing may not be the word.

In the evening I got rowed out to witness the daily ceremony of Aarti, where Braman priests conduct ceremonies with fire and smoke before a devoted audience. The river is chock full of boats all containg either devotees or tourists. Hawkers step from boat to boat with offerings or snacks to sell. It's a mad chaotic spectacular that feels very magical.