Now in Thuringia and the charming town on Weimar. It's a very modest place, not at all the place you would expect to have a whole republic named after it, even on that only lasted 14 years.
It was the home of
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, who I didn't know much about, but who is incredibly popular in Germany. He wrote Faust as well as writing poetry, painting and exploring the properties of light. A right clever dick. He certainly had a lovely house and garden. His rooms are exactly as they looked when he died. Ok they moved the corpse and emptied the chamber pot, but other than that he would feel right at home. Very evocative of early 19th century life.
Got the train a few miles upstream to take in some of the superb scenery known as Saxon Switzerland. Some wonderful views from the hills surrounding the river valley, although it was packed with tourists. Climbed up to the Bastel, an old castle situated right up in the cliffs with views in every direction.
The crowds thinned out a bit when I got away from the roads and ventured into the national park. Got a bit lost and ended up at a German war memorial on a hill. Found my way back through the woods and via a ferry over the river
Traveled down to Saxony and the capital
Dresden lovingly situated on the banks of the Elbe, a few hundred kilometres upstream from Hamburg. Dresden was of course heavily bombed in the war and most of the city centre flattened. You wouldn’t know it looking at the massive church or Frauenkirche dominating the main square. It was a heap of rubble for the forty years of socialist rule, left as a monument to the folly of war. However in the last twenty years it has risen like a Phoenix and now stands tall and proud. It is a very strange shape, more like a tower than a church, you certainly don’t want to suffer from vertigo in the top seats.
Had a look round the museums, stuffed full of treasure from the Middle Ages and went for a walk round the Zwinger, a beautiful old building in the centre. While I was in the grounds I saw a cop do a summersault and then charge into the building waving his gun. He obviously didn’t do it quite right as the director called for a second take.
Got a view of Royal life with a trip down to
Sanssouci Park in Potsdam. Lots to seen with plenty of Palaces spread about the parkland. It was the home of Frederick the Great in the late eighteenth Century and certainly has some impressive rooms. From bourgeois decadence to the joys of collective socialism in the afternoon with a visit to the DDR Museum. Lots to see, including a
Tribant you could sit in, and propaganda films extolling the virtues of the state. The recreation of the typical front room looks incredibly familiar and took me right back to the seventies, even if the music playing on the cassette player was different and the children's board games had a different look. No Monopoly in East Germany. The East Germans also seemed to be very keen on getting back to nature as the film clips of families on holiday on the nudest beaches of the Baltic sea show. There is nothing more unedifying then a middle aged couple playing Table Tennis, naked. Took a trip up the TV Tower for a panoramic view over the city
Spent the morning in the North West of the city at the
Schloss Charlottenburg, one of the many Royal Palaces in the country. Some marvellous rooms, although most have been rebuilt after heavy bombing the the Second World War. The restoration is pretty fantastic though and its set in some picturesque gardens.
Came back into the modern era when I visited the Story of Berlin museum complete with Nuclear Bunker all ready to go, although they need 2 weeks notice of any nuclear attack in order to fill the water tanks, so lets hope any warning doesn't get lost in the post.
Walked back to the centre of town and found a stretch of the Berlin Wall which is still in position. It's right next to a levelled piece of land which was part of no-mans land during the cold war. Before that it was Gestapo Headquarters and it was from here that much of the terror that enveloped Europe originated in the 30's and 40's. There is a museum now, detailing that horrific time the world history and making sure it is never forgotten.
Arrived in
Berlin this morning. An amazing city with history oozing from every flagstone. Started with the grimmest episode in the history of the country and visited the
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe in the centre of the city. It's a strange structure, 2,711 concrete slabs or "stelae", one for each page of the Talmud arranged in a grid pattern on a sloping field. Underneath is a exhibition on the holocaust which brings home the enormity of the crime, not by stating statistics and history, but by telling the individual stories of many who were murdered in the barbaric act of genocide. Pictures of happy contented families enjoying life in the early part of the century are next to documentation of how the families were ripped apart as the terror overcame Europe with parents never seeing their children again and stories like the mother who pleaded with a guard for her son to be excused the work camps, not realising that the alternative was instant death in the gas chambers of Auschwitz. The centre only opened in 2005 and its good that such a powerful memorial should be situated so near to wear the horrendous plan was conceived and implemented.
Took the lift up to the top of the
Reichstag for a wonderful view. The old structure is topped with a magnificent glass dome and you can walk up the inside to get views right over the city. The Berlin Wall ran just behind the building, but all that's left now is a brick path marking the location of the structure. It is difficult to imagine how the city must have looked just 21 years ago when the wall still existed. Such a small duration of time but a city changed. No longer divided, open where once there were only restrictions. Nothing much is left except for a few remnants and the crosses marking the deaths of so many who lost their lives trying to traverse the gap that divided the world into East and West.
Onto the port of
Hamburg on what is an incredibly hot day. Took a tour on the water, which helped cool things down a bit, but it was still scorching in the sun. It was down by the docks, in the red light district that the Beatles cut their teeth and there is a wonderful little museum full of mementoes from the time the five of them played in the city. There are some bizarre statues of them in Beatles Plaza which more like a pastry cut out than a human form. Had a burger in the evening. Well you have to have a Hamburger in Hamburg. For my shame I didn't know the name came from the town, I always assumed they were originality made with ham. But not so. The name derives from the habit the citizens of the town had for wedging steaks between the layers of their saddles, so that after a decent ride the meat was nicely tenderised if a little flat. I don't know if McDonald's still use the same method?
Headed north up to the city state of
Bremen on the river Weser. It's famous because of the famous Brothers Grimm tale about the cockerel who stood on the back of a cat, who stood on the back of a dog, who stood on the back on a Donkey. No I had never hear of it either, but apparently its very big in Germany. So much so that there is a statue of the four animals doing their circus act outside the town hall. Ventured into the Cathedral vaults where you can see nine open coffins complete with mummified corpses inside. The air in the vault is so dry they mummify naturally, although its not a good look. I think I prefer a decent skeleton, at least that looks reasonably chestful. These all look like something from The Scream.
Headed down to
Bonn today, just half an hour south of Cologne by metro. It's a lovely old city and much more laid back than Cologne. It was of course the federal capital until reunification and the south of the city is full of the trappings of government, now no longer used in the way they were intended. Its very peaceful walking down by the river watching the incredibly long cruise boats chug up and down the Rhine.
Bonn was the birthplace of
Ludwig van Beethoven, and his house is now a museum containing many relics from is life. His last piano is there along with the console from the organ in the church where he played when he was eleven. It is quite amazing to think those are the same keys his little figures played with over 200 years ago. The saddest exhibits are the gigantic ear trumpets he had made to counter his increasing deafness.
Up early to get to St Pancras for the Eurostar. Train really is the way to travel. No long check in queues, no long trek out to the airport, no hassle of getting into the city once you land. Just door to door in 5 hours.
Cologne is an ancient city set on the banks of the River
Rhine. Headed up to the
Cathedral, just up the road from the hotel. It is a massive monument, towering over the city below. For four years it was the tallest building in the World, until the Washington Monument trumped it, and you certainly get an outstanding view of the city from the top of the tower. It's worth the log slog up the stairs. The Cathedral took 632 years to finish, but there is no truth that the same architects are behind the BBC West 1 project.
In the afternoon looked round the chocolate museum. Not that is what I call a museum, free samples as well.