Hanoi

Last day in Vietnam and I spent it visiting the Army museum and the Temple of Literature. The Army museum was interesting, although I don`t know what all the American tourists make of all the placards about the American war of imperialism and aggression. They didn`t have the pictures of the Hero`s of the revolution with the caption Patriot and American killer I saw in some other museums. The Temple of Literature was calm and relaxing.

Spent the afternoon walking in Lenin park and watching the glorious sunset. Leaving at 7am tomorrow for the long flight back to London.
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Halong Bay

Had a wonderful three days in Ha long Bay. Drove down on Monday and picked up the boat in Ha long City. Cruised out into the bay while having lunch. Ha long Bay over 1000 islands, all wonderful khast limestone crags jutting out of the clear emerald sea. The night we spent anchored in the middle of the bay before spending most of Tuesday kayaking around the islands and swimming in some of the bays. Stayed the night in a hotel on Cat Ba island in Cat Ba national park before cursing back through the islands today.

Just one day more in Hanoi before I fly back on Friday.
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Hanoi Hilton

Spent the day wandering around some museums and sitting by the lake. Visited the Hoa Lo prison which was know to the Americans as the Hanoi Hilton as it was where all the shot down pilots ended up. Before that is was used by the French to keep political prisoners is some pretty deplorable conditions. There is also another old Guillotine, captioned as a cutting machine and some gory pictures of the heads of some of the Viet Minh in baskets.

Staying right in the heart of the old quarter. It`s madness outside the door with motorbikes flying around the packed streets and shops of all description. I even passed a whole line of of workers sitting on the pavement making tombstones. Now there`s an idea for a holiday present.

Weather much brighter today after the overcast spell of the last couple of days. Off to Ha long tomorrow so hope it is bright for the kayaking.
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Hanoi

Caught the bus up to Hanoi this morning. The bus station was about 7km from the centre of the city so I needed another motorbike lift to get me into town. Had a wander around the main sights today including a look at the outside of Ho Chi Minh`s tomb. Can`t go in and visit as the old boy gets sent to Russia each November for a bit of touching up. Saw the stilt house he used to live in though.

Booked a trip down to Halong Bay for next Monday, staying Monday night in a boat in the middle of the bay. Weather quite miserable up here, 18C and overcast. As long as the typhoons hold while I`m at sea.
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Ninh Bình

Caught the late afternoon train in Hue yesterday and arrived in Ninh Binh early this morning. Train was good even though I was in hard class this time. We even got food supplied which was very tasty. When I got here I hired a bike and did loads of cycling around the limestone hills. The scenery is fantastic, very similar to that of Guilin in China. Took a boat trip through some caves and climbed up to a temple on the top of one of the hills.

Just went for a walk in the city and ended up in the meat market. I`m sure that was a dogs head I saw looking up from one of the stalls.

Worn out so will probably have an early night and head towards Hanoi tomorrow
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Demilitarized Zone

I knew I talked to soon. Today the rain came with avengence. I thought it may slow down the Motorbike madness but no such luck. Out came the multi coloured plastic capes and it was business as usual, looking like some sort of Batman convention had hit town.

Luckily I spent most of the day in a bus , visiting the former DMZ or Demilitarised Zone, about 50Km north of here. Of course during the American war it was one of the heaviest militarised places in the world. Went to see the former border between North and South Vietnam, and a few old military bases with rusting helicopters.

Tomorrow I catch the overnight train up to Ninh Binh, a fourteen hour journey.
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Tombs

Today hired a bike and cycled out to some of the Tombs in the surrounding countryside. The bike was the oldest most rickety boneshaker you have ever seen, but it matched in well with the others on the road. Had a little bit of difficulty when I got lost somewhere on the banks of the Perfume river. Ended up going down a tiny little track just next to the river. Couldn`t really backtrack as there was a very unfriendly dog the way I had come so had to press on carrying my bike up this tiny Little path and trying not to fall in. Eventually found a steep track going upwards , so I followed that and ended up in the local cemetery, with an absolutely stunning view over the river. So all worked out OK in the end. The tombs were worth seeing as well.
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Huế

After a quite day yesterday spend cycling round Hoi An and sitting on the beach under a palm tree, caught the bus up to Hue this morning. Was hoping to go over a magnificent mountain pass, as described in all the guide books, however the Vietnamese have blasted a tunnel right through the bottom of the mountain so we went that way.

Hue is a ancient city straddling the Perfume River. It was the capital of Vietnam in the time of the Emperors and is where they had their imperial palace and the location of most of their tombs. Visited the Imperial city today and hope to do the tombs tomorrow. Not sure whether to hire another motorbike, or I might just stick to pedal power. The traffic in this city is horrendous. Saw one crash today which looked pretty nasty.

Weather still deifying the odds and remaining fantastic. This is meant to be the rainy season but haven`t seen a drop for ages. I have left the tropics now and it`s meant to be winter here. Winter and 29C!
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Mỹ Sơn

After my experience on the back of a Motorbike yesterday, today went the whole hog and hired one of the things for the day. Biked out to Myson, the ancient Charm centre 40Km west of Hoi An. Very scenic ride once I had got of Highway 1 and was heading up into the hills. Only got lost once. First time I`ve driven a motorbike so it took a bit of getting used to. Was great fun, although I don`t think I could do it if I had to wear one of those awful helmets they make you wear in Europe.

Ruins were impressive even if it was a little hot there. And this is winter! Spent a few hours wandering around then biked back.

Hoi An had a typhoon last week and was flooded so I chose the right week to come. Food is fantastic as well.
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Hoi An

Arrived this morning in Hoi An an incredibly quaint little town on the banks of the river. Travelled down from Danarg on the back of a motorbike. It was an interesting journey as the driver had my rucksack on his lap and me clinging on for dear life as we weaved in and out of the traffic. Arrived safely and have a fantastic hotel with a lovely swimming pool.

Will probably stay here a couple of nights and see some of the surrounding countryside. Spent today looking at some of the old houses and temples in the town. Hoi An was an old trading port in the 17th and 18th Century`s and was settled by a lot of Chinese traders. The centre is now an UNESCO protected site and traffic is banned from the main streets. It`s a luxury. You still get the ubiquitous motorcycles, but with out the cars they don`t have to weave about so much.
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