Avignon
Thursday, November 17, 2016
Now in Avignon, the city of popes that isn't Rome. The pontiffs were here in the 14th century when the papacy became a vassal of the French crown. The palace is still here dominating the town, its great stone walls towering over the cobbled lanes. The rooms inside are impressive, vast spaces now empty but for a few wandering tourists.
Not many treasures left. I guess they all got returned to Rome. There are some impressive frescos, although many were damaged when the palace was used as a military barracks just after the revolution. The palace was also home to the anti-popes, two pretenders to the papal crown who reigned in Avignon at the start of the 15th century. Not sure what happens if a pope meets an anti-pope. Maybe there is a big flash and we all become atheist. Who knows?
The city overlooks the Rhone, with its constant river traffic chugging by. Over the river is the Fort Saint-André which protect the town of Villeneuve. The old bridge over the river has long fallen down, with just the eastern spur jutting into the water. You can walk out onto it but in terms of crossing the water it falls a little short. Luckily there is a newer alternative.
The river used to be a wide fermenting babble. Now it's calm and sedate thanks to the river calming efforts up stream. Very pleasant to sit on the banks, take in the glorious autumn leaves, and see the world glide by.
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