Bitterly cold which is a bit of a shock after the lovely weather at the weekend. Spent the day exploring Cape Cod in all its stark beauty.

Began at Provincetown which was the point the Pilgrims first landed in the new world. They spent a month up there, doing a bit of washing, stealing some corn from the natives and desecrating some graves, before moving on. A tower now stands on the hill with panoramic views over the whole cape.

The pilgrims were a bit off course, having intended to settle in North Virginia, but winter was drawing in and they were pretty exhausted from the trip, so decided it would have to be New England.

Plymouth was their final destination, stepping onto the new continent via the Plymouth Rock. It's still there, under a stone portico now, and split in half thanks to a misguided attempt to move it inland during the 18th century.

It must have been bleak that first winter. The wind whistled over the dunes today, and it's the middle of April. Camping out through the harsh winter storms in soaking wet woollen garments must have been hell. No wonder half if the original 104 were dead within a year. Some are buried in the old cemetery on top of the hill.

Also visited Hyannis, once the headquarters of the Kennedy dynasty. Now a beautiful little town on the edge of the ocean.