Mount Fuji

UntitledBack in Tokyo for some gloriously Sunny days. Staying on the Ashkusa area on the 21st floor with a spectacular view over the endless city. On clear days you can even see Mount Fuji on the opposite side of the metropolis.

 Got a bit closer to the mountain by climbing one of the foothills yesterday. Took the chair lift half way up, which is kind of cheating, but I am getting on. Was quite exciting gliding through the trees. The top was rather crowed, but at least the mountain was visible, so the climb was worth it.

 No more train journeys. I'll miss the way the conductors bow to the carriage when they enter. I wonder if British Rail could adopt the practice. Everyone bows here.

Finished with a long walk through the streets amid the hustle and bustle of the lanes and carriageway taking in some magnificent gardens.
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Castles

UntitledHeading back towards Tokyo now and taking in a few castles as I go.

 The first was in Himeji, where the castle towers over the city below. It is the original, having survived the ravages of World War II and very popular as the queues into the main keep testified. The staircases are almost vertical, like the typ you find in ships, but that didn't seem to stop half the OAP's in the province racing for the top.

 The view was worth it, as was the view from the garden next door. The Japanese certainly have a way with gardens and the juxtaposition of tree and water, grass and gravel is staggering in its simplicity and beauty.

 Nagoya also boasts a castle, although this one is a replica as the original was fire bombed and destroyed. Good news is they put a lift in which eased the way to the eight floor.

 Nagoya also boast the JR museum fill of all types of train you could imagine. It's pride and joy is the bullet train and the interactive displayed give you an insight into just Ho it all works so slickly.
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Nagasaki

VUntitledArrived in the port city of Nagasaki, on the island of Kyushu. It's stands at the head of a long fjord, a beautiful position with the prospect slightly marred by the lashing rain that enveloped the city as I arrived.

To get there you need to take the regional train. Quite beautiful winding around the coastline and quite a contrast to the mad dash of the bullet train. Life in this corner of the island is remarkable sedate.

Nagasaki was for many years the only interface between Japan and the rest of the world. Contact took place via Dejima, a small man made island that stands on the edge of the harbour. It was to this island that the Dutch traders were confined and all contact to and from Japan passed through its gates. 

Later on the foreigner compound was extended and the hillside boasts the Glover garden, build by a tea trader from Fraserborough. Certainly a beautiful spot with views over the bay.

Not sure if the 26 martyrs who were crucified on the hills overlooking the bay enjoyed the view. Probably other things on their mind.  They were executed in the 17th century following the banning of Christianity by the Shogun.  The youngest was just twelve. The Catholic Church later made them all saints and a shrine stands where they were killed.

Following the opening up of the country the biggest church in Asia once stood in the city. It took twenty years to build, and just three seconds to be demolished when it found itself at the epicentre of the Worlds second, and so far last, atomic bomb to be used in anger. The museum is again sobering with many mormories of ordinary lives wiped out in the massive explosion that enveloped the valley.  Very moving testimony. 

Hiroshima

UntitledHiroshima is a beautiful relaxing city of some million people located on the delta of the Ota river With beautiful gardens and ringed by mountains it has a peaceful and relaxing atmosphere.

However the name, meaning wide island, will forever be linked with one of the most destructive acts of man, when the first atomic bomb used in anger, detonated 600m above the city centre.

The bomb came out of a bright clear sky one August morning, as World War II was grinding to its conclusion. Japan was being heavily bombed in preparation for an expected allied invasion and school children were employed clearing buildings to make fire lanes in the city, meaning many were caught in the open when the destruction came.

The destruction was immense, and well documented in peace museum, which stands in a leafy park just south of the bomb site. The visit is difficult, but vital to understand the suffering and pain that went here. The exhibits are evocative, and show the routines of daily life, cut short that sunny morning. The twisted metal of the lunch box, its contents turned to carbon. The ragged school uniforms, scorched white with the heat. The child's tricycle, now a rusting wreck.

The steps from the local bank are on show. That morning there had been a human being full of life and hope, sitting on the step. The next the life was just a memory, a shadow left on a step being the only remnant of a life cut short.

Over 140,000 died as a result of the bombing. But The pain and the suffering are testament to the horrors of war of any scale.
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Nara

UntitledAfter a couple of damp days in Kyoto, the sun came out for my trip down to Nara.

Nara was the capital before Kyoto, so we are talking about 1500 years ago. It is certainly much more compact than its big neighbour and chock full of temples. It houses the biggest wooden building in the world, built in the 1700 to house a gigantic Buddha, He still sits there, presiding over the hoards that come to pay homage. Amazingly the building used to be bigger, but was reduced in a round of 18th Century austerity cuts.

Paid my 150 Yen to walk up the mountain. It was a steep climb, but the view over the plains made it well worth the climb. There was a group of Japanese walkers out for a ramble, Nice to see the outfit of the walker is universal.

Now in the metropolis of Osaka. The hotel is very bizarre as all the rooms have steel doors. Makes it feel like you are staying in a prison cell. When you open the bathroom door the toilet seat rises automatically as if to say hi, how can I help you? Flushing the thing however, requires a degree from Nasa.
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Bullet Train

UntitledAmbled along to the station to catch the Shinkansen, better known as the Bullet train.

The train propels you rapidly between cities and is certainly impressive. Watching the train arrive was like watching a precision drill, so organised was the reception and so quick the turnaround. As it arrived it was greated by a team of bright blue engineers and bright pink cleaners. Within 15 minutes the train had disgorged its passengers and been occupied by the cleaning team. Each carriage had been totally cleaned. the seats all reversed and all set fair for the new trip ahead.

The route takes you across the plains with the magnificent Mount Fuji towering above, down towards the old city of Kyoto. Last time I came here was for the World Earth summit in 1997, and to be honest I can't remember much. I think most of that trip was spent in a press room at the convention centre.

This time I had time to wander the streets, exploring temples and taking in the glorious autumn colours. Several people had the same plan and the path of reflection was very crowded. Not much time for reflecting if you didn't want to bump into somebody.
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City Break

UntitledTook in the sights of Tokyo starting with the national museum.  It's full of aincent and colurful objects, and that was just the curators. There was a touring exhibition of Sian warriors from China. Been there done that.

The area the museum is located in survived the various earthquakes and bombing in WWII so the layour is pretty much unchanged. Quite a contrast walking the twisting lanes after the long straight avenues in the city. Came upon an old graveyard full of families visititng the relitives.

Took the shuttle over the Tokyo harbour Islands, now redevoloped as a major tourist attraction. There is a lot to see. The port musesm is on the twentieth floor and give a dynamic view over the whole container port. Quite amazing how it all works.
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Tokyo

Untitled The arrival lived up to the efficiency and politeness the Japanese are famed for, and, once the immigration officer could read my writing in the immigration form, was soon speeding into the city on the express train. The ticket machines are like some sort of Krypton Factor test, and your reward, when successful, is a seat as your are rushed into the capital

Arrived at the central station, certainly a hive of activity. Hotel was near enough to walk, even if I did start off in the wrong direction. Must have a bit of my mother in me.

Once checked in went for a walk around the Imperial Palace. I do mean a walk around. You can't go in as the Emperor still lives there. It is a very long loop round, but very beautiful. First impressions of Tokyo are of what a lot of space there is. I guess I was expecting jam packed streets clogged with traffic. What we have is wide avenues, and parks full of autumnal trees gently shedding leaves.



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Budapest

After the compact nature of Prague, and the country town feel of Bratislava, Budapest feels like a mighty metropolis.

It straddles the Danube, which seams narrower here, with Buda standing rocky and proud on one side, while Pest lies on the flatlands on the other. The two city's were combined in to produce Budapest one of the great capitals of Europe.

The city has known suffering over the years, not least in the mid 20th century when first the Nazi's and then the Communists terrorised the population. One soldier, spirited off to a Russian Gulag after the war was only released a few years ago after 53 years in a mental hospital. They though he was simple and couldn't speak. Turned out he only understood Hungarian.

In the caves below the castle they built a hospital to treat the wounded during the battle for the city at the end of World War II. It later became a top secret nuclear shelter, but now is open for tours. A fascinating reminder of how dangerous the past was.

The city has a vast number of natural springs supplying bather houses with abundant supplies of healing waters . Just the place to relax after a day's sightseeing. Just make sure you chose one where swimming costumes are not optional if you don't want to be put off your lunch.

Finished the day with a walk along the promenade. With the castle sparkling on the hill opposite it really is a magical city.
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Bratislava

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In Bratislava, capital of Slovakia, which lies alongside the mighty Danube. The river certainly generates a feeling of great power as it scuttles alongside the city on its relentless journey East towards the Black Sea.

The river once marked the northern border of the Roman Empire, an border that would have been difficult to cross given the wide expanse of fast flowing water. some facing ting pictures from the communist era showing people swimming in the river. Quite a resort atmosphere.

Bratislava is a very laid back kind of capital, in line with the country's modest size. It has the vibe of a country town, laid back, chilling in the sunshine. The old town us dominated by a large castle. Heavily restored it had some fantastic views over the metropolis. Further views can be enjoyed from the UFO, the saucer shaped restaurant that sits on top one of the bridges.

Staying just opposite the presidential palace. I think today was "bring your kinds to see the president day" given by the number streaming into the place this morning. They were serenaded by a brass band. I thought for a moment it was the Slovak national anthem that they were playing but then realised it was "Can you feel the love tonight".